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Dr. 240Z

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Everything posted by Dr. 240Z

  1. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  2. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  3. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  4. Dr. 240Z posted a gallery image in Vanity Plates
  5. philbar73, The pictures compliment your written description very well. I really like the approach you have engineered - fewer moving parts - well done!! George
  6. Hi Siteunseen, I suspect that you will have to configure something similar to what I posted. The reason being that the Weber chokes open in the opposite direction from the SU's, and, as such, the two original cables are too short to accommodate the 180 degree bend the outer Webers require. An alternative would be to remove the two original cables and replace them with one long cable (10') which you could feed through the firewall then under the three carbs up and around to top of the front side of the 1st carb. If this is of interest, there is a post by, 'Lazeum' on the hybrid Z site titled ' Weber DCOE40 18 Info Needed' Cheers, George
  7. Hi, I just finished hooking up the choke to Triple Weber DCOE 40's and thought I'd share it with you: Frist, please note I used the idea/picture from cygnusx1 as posted earlier - give credit where it's do!! I bought a $0.30 piece of aluminum: 3'' x 1" x 1/4" which I cut to shape and then dry sanded to 1500. I drilled out the pivot hole vertically to 5/16" and the two cable holes to 1/8" horizontally. I used a 20.5" length of steel braided aviation cable to hook up the choke levers. To attach the choke levers I used 6mm bolts drilled out 1/8" to accept the braided cable. I secured both cables (the longer of the two original choke cables and the braided cable) to the bell crank lever with brass electrical connectors. The shorter original choke cable was ligated under the 2nd and 3rd Weber - both out of the way and out of sight. As is, the choke works with about the same degree of pull on the choke lever as with the twin SU's Regards, George
  8. Hi Again, I forgot to put a plug in for this guy: Shop at home - buy American Brian, says he will charge $120.00 /unit (includes Shipping within USA) if he gets a bulk order - not sure what a 'bulk' order is but it could be worthwhile asking. Cheers, George
  9. Hi, I just got in touch with Brian (the owner?) of the outfit where I purchased my metal heat shield. He's got one in stock and can have more made up within a week. Cheers, George
  10. Hi, I purchased it around the first of this year. I was told that a bunch were being fabricated so shipping/delivery took a while. Perhaps, they haven't updated their web site recently - An email to them might yield an answer. email address: azcarbum@msn.com Cheers, George
  11. Hi, I purchased Murdermat after a lot of study. The order arrived in great shape and shipping was pleasingly fast via UPS. However, the order arrived without an instructions (helpful hints) but I found cutting and fitting the material was straight forward using a sharp utility knife. How well it actually works only time will tell. The day I installed it the outside temperature was -15F and the Z was in full hibernation. The company requested a product review and, as such, I wrote it up; both the good and the not so good. It was the first product review placed on the company web site and if you read it you will note the company published the whole review which I think was pretty straight up of them. Cheers, George
  12. Welcome, Dan Blue is without doubt Canada's most 'connected' Z car nut and a heck of a nice guy. I hope you find this site helpful in your efforts to rehabilitate the Z. If you can't find the answer to a problem in the forums, just ask....I've found members are very willing to help.Also, it's a pretty good source for parts. Should you ever drive East to NB please look me up. Cheers, George
  13. Hi, Just thought I'd share what I've assembled for a simple heat shield. In this case it's being used on an L24 with triple Weber DCOE 40's. However, it should work for other carb brands as well. For those interested in its construction the metal shield was sourced from Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: and the insulation from Your Racing Safety Company Cheers, George
  14. Eastwood sells a product for restoring old/tired vinyl. It works well and a little goes a long way...not to mention, it's reasonably priced.
  15. I Followed up at a local auto parts store - Here's the spring in position with its very long and adaptable ends adjusted to a good working length:
  16. Hi, Have you looked on ebay? Check out ebay member: kurtwwalters Cheers, George
  17. Hi, A couple of pictures as suggested: Driver's door without a spring and passenger's door with a spring in place. Thanks, George
  18. Hi Ken, I think you are asking me for one large picture of the belt - I suggest that I'd have to remove the seat and then the belts in order to do that. So, I've left the belts in place and taken a series of close-ups that I hope will provide you with what you're looking for. Cheers, George
  19. Hi, If you have one or can suggest where I can purchase one it would be appreciated. Assuming it is the same as the passenger's door, it has 4 coils. Thanks, George
  20. Hi, I'll suggest, 'How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car' by Wick Humble. I'll also suggest that you check out AbeBooks Official Site - New & Used Books, New & Used Textbooks, Rare & Out of Print Books as a good source for this and other used books. Cheers, George
  21. Hi, Anyone having had any experience/exposure with a product, 'Murdermat', please offer your comments. From the company web site presentation, it appears to be a well thought out product both in its composition and application. Thanks, George
  22. Never been one to quit....try this: Google: New-Datsun-Parts Look in Electrical and Lighting Cheers, George
  23. One more time: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps
  24. Let's try that again: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps
  25. Hi, Give this site a look: Datsun 240Z Parts, Lights and Lamps
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