MikeW

Sure, that's what I've done. I've just left off the guards and overrider bars but installed the corner rubber. However, you will be left with holes where the guards mount. I'll upload some closeup pictures today.

Forgive me if this is obvious but 240Z bumper came with holes on the bottom for driving/fog lights.

Thanks everyone for the engine lamp offers. It seems like everyone has some even though MSA and VB don't carry them. I'll contact anyone who's offered via a PM if needed.

I'll go ahead and upload it to my gallery. If you want it faster you can PM me with an e-mail address. I took this last night in my garage with a fluorescent light. I could do a better job in sunlight if this isn't good enough.

If you don't already have it, Wick Humble's "How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car" is quite useful. The second chapter explains how to remove the engine and transmission and has lots of tips and tricks. He mentions things like cleaning everything up good first, storing all small items in baggies with proper labels, using fender protectors, not to let the whole things swing towards the windshield, etc. While I didn't pull my engine myself, I've read enough of the book to know that it would probably come in handy in your situation.

Thanks for the link. If the orginal tires were 175/70-14 then my new 195/60-14's are off by 1.8% too fast. An indicated 60mph is really 58.9mph. Heck, I don't think I can hold the speedometer steady enough (without cruise control) for that to even matter.

185 millimeters is 7.17 inches. Two inches more than that, 9.17, is 232.92 millimeters.

Better that than going up to the red line. I would have to guess it's a problem with the sending unit that screws in to the thermostat housing. I don't know why there would be a difference with the car moving, however.

I just took a high-resolution digital photo of mine (also a '72). You might be able to print it the right size with a high quality printer on label paper and trim it to fit. I'll upload it to my gallery if you think it's worth a shot.

Were console lids/covers standard equipment? I thought that was an after-market accessory ...

See my earlier post. This car is on the showroom floor at a Nissan dealer in Conyers, Georgia with a price sticker in the window that says "Ask for price". I was there and asked for the price and I believe the answer was 14K.

There are actually a couple of places that have been discussed here recently: http://www.justdashes.com http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/index.htm If you don't mind not being able to drive for a while these might be reasonable options

Wow, that seems like it's worth a try compared to the cost of a new dash. Have you tried it yourself?

There are a few odds and ends that my 72 240Z is missing that don't seem to be listed in catalogs. If anyone has any of the following available for sale or knows where to get them cheap I'd appreciate it. I have seen some of this stuff on EBay but am not yet comfortable with getting stuff that way. I would trust people here more. Engine compartment inspection lamp Luggage straps Fuse box cover plate (mine is damaged; a previous owner snipped all of the wires; I'm guessing there's a choke warning lamp, seatbelt lamp, and defroster switch) Things I have seen in catalogs but seem quite expensive: Dome lamp assembly Glove box interior (fell apart on me years ago trying to fix clock)

Thanks. I went with some H-Rated 195/60-14 Sumitomo tires. So far there isn't any rubbing, even on a big speed bump. As far as the speedometer error introduced by a slightly smaller diameter goes it looks like a visit to the local radar speed limit sign in front of the elementary school is in order.:devious:

I actually looked at that car recently. I was cruising along I-20 just outside of Atlanta and glanced over at the Nissan dealership next to the highway to see if there were any 350Z's on the showroom floor. I couldn't tell from that vantage point doing 70mph, but I could also see the opened hood of a 1st generation Z car. It even appeared to be the same color green as my 240Z was originally. When I came back by later I stopped to take a look. Sure enough, there was a red 350Z with this particular 260Z sitting next to it. Quite a few people were looking at the 260 and ignoring the 350. The price sticker in the window said "ask" so I asked. The answer was somewhere around $14,000, I don't recall exactly. Partially because I wasn't interested in a 260Z and partially because the priced seemed so ridiculously high there was no point in remembering it. I does look very nice. The paint appears to be the original color but resprayed on the outside. The engine compartment paint wasn't as fresh. It does appear to be a quite nice restoration, but I'm no expert so don't go blowing $14,000 just because I said it looked nice.

Once the valves are closed, the fuel-air mixture is compressed, the spark fires, all hell breaks loose, and the piston is pushed back down do you think the air actually remembers which direction it came from? It's probably so confused it doesn't know which way is up ... On a more serious note, I suspect modern engines are cross flow because many have 4 valves per cylinder. It would be kind of hard to have all 4 on the same side of the combustion chamber. At the time Nissan (or Prince) got the original design from Mercedes (as a 4 cylinder) they probably didn't have the ability or desire to make major changes and later on probably decided if it ain't broke don't fix it ...

14 years ago when I put 195/70-14's on my 14x7 slotted mags the rear tires rubbed the fenders whenever hitting a big bump or dip in the road. At the time I attributed this to sagging springs. I now have Tokico lowering springs and they still seem to rub (the car appears to ride at about the same height as before) although I haven't driven the car much seeing as how I need new tires. What size should I consider? Should I revert to 185/70 or even 185/60?

I joined this club at the end of December just after deciding to do something about the 240Z in my garage collecting spider webs and dust. I had always told myself that I'd eventually do something about it and figured if I didn't proceed with it there was no point keeping it. Being beyond the point of wanting to do much work myself I got the engine started (first time in about 4 years) and drove it to my regular mechanic for a little bit of work. Part of the deal was that they could work on it as time permitted; I was obviously in no hurry. I got it back today after waiting 5 months. Here's a brief list of the parts replaced: Engine rebuilt by <a HREF=http://www.jasperengines.com/gasengines.html>Jasper Engines</a> Clutch kit (bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc) Transmission seal front Transmission seal rear Water pump Thermostat Oil sender unit Coolant temperature sensor Thermostat housing Thermostat cover Carb floats Carb rebuild kits Engine mounts Exhaust straps Upper radiator hose Lower radiator hose Heater hoses Battery Drive belt Spark plugs Poly bushing kit Tokico struts Tokico springs Front brake rotors Front brake calipers Front brake flex lines Front brake pads Real wheel cylinders Rear brake flex lines Rear linings Front wheel bearing kits Rear axle seals Half shaft U Joints Drive shaft U joints Front tie rod ends Lower ball joints Spindle pins Rear strut assembly That last bit was because the left spindle pin popped right out. The right wouldn't even come out in a 2 stage hydraulic press. I'll post a shot of the clean engine compartment as well as a picture of the car after being washed for the first time in about 15 years. I had planned on body work and paint next but after a wash and a little wax it doesn't look as bad as I was expecting. I might even go for one of those fancy detail jobs. A urethane airdam is on the way from MSA and I'll be ordering seat covers, carpet, plastic panels soon. I'll plan on posting more pictures as things progress. I did polish the valve cover and original slotted mags and I think they came out fairly good.

Are you talking about the rubber hoses that go to and from the fuel pump? If so I would just take a small section of the hose you want to replace to your local auto parts place and get something close. I don't think it's critical as long as it's close enough for the clamps to work.