70z4fun

Yep, the bubbles "were" there, and now they are gone, as I grinned out and filled the three small holes on one side and one hole on the other. Not a professional long term fix, but I hated seeing the bubbles, and wanted to show it at a car show, that was today, so now I have black rockers.......

My 240z is not really silver, it's more of the silver blue Porsche color. That's one of the reasons I want to repaint it, besides the fact that the paint is 25 years old..... the guy that painted it last time, didn't want to do silver because it was difficult to do right........

Thanks for the notes and responses. I am located in Central Oregon, which I know is limited in services. But will there are a few high end restoration shops around...... Paint is good enough for me to do a small car show this weekend...... here is a picture with the other wheels and tires.......

So, I have this series one 240z that I should start to think about painting..... Last paint job was back in 1995, and the hood was repainted in 2010. The car looks fine from a distance, but I have been hit by foul balls at a softball game, scraped a few times when unloading out of the hatch, etc...... I have "some" rust ( I think they all do by now) bubbles that have shown up over the years in the lower fenders, rockers and well arches, but nothing too crazy... at least I like to think that. Last time I painted it, I took it all apart and took it to a local body shop and they sprayed it, and I put it back together. Went ok, but wondering what I should do this time. MOST of the body shops I talked to locally won't touch it unless it's an insurance claim. I get it, no one wants to go down a rabbit hole with an old car........ when they can make money working on stuff that insurance will cover. I would love to hear from those that have had there car painted, I want to take it back to original silver, as the motor compartment is correct original color. I don't think I want to do a bolt off restro on it, that might be for the next guy that has the car...... Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Need to start thinking of a budget for this project.........

Interesting, so where on the series one car is the flasher relay for hazard? I see the one under the steering wheel, don't see the other one........ Does the "accessory relay" control the heated glass?

So finally got around to replacing my rear struts. I did notice that there was a little leak on the drivers side hose where it mounts to the body. It appears that the stem coming out of the stainless line is where it's coming out. I put on some stainless lines many, many years ago from Motorsport Auto. So, not the question is, since you can't get one hose, i thought I would replace both rear hoses. The stainless hose come in a set of four, so that's one option, or just get a pair of rubber stock hoses...... Not sure about running stainless hose in front and rubber in the rear? If I get a set of stainless, any recommendation there? I know most won't fit in the factory clip. The care is a series one 240z, with Aluminum drum brakes in the rear, Any advice is appreciated,

Good point, I will double check the float levels. The car currently is running the SM needles. Will see which other ones I have, if I can read the markings..... Is there a "better" way to check float levels with them attached to the car? Thanks for the advice above, greatly appreciated.

So far, I keep turning the mixture screw down, and at about 3 1/4 turns out. Still see a bit lean on the plugs, and it starts to lose power at a higher rpm, around 4200. IF I pull the choke, it "feels" better. I don't think I have many turns left in the mixture screw. So will take it back and recheck timing again, as I have always run it at about 12 degree BTDC. I recall many years ago running it a 10 degrees BTDC. I am thinking I should try some different needles. Currently I have the SM needle. I did switch to K&N air cleaners, but I would doubt that would be an issue as allowing to much air....... I did have a nice drive today.....

Finally got a chance to get the car out today. Thanks for the suggestion. I tool it out and as it was getting up to 4K, it started to cut out and I pulled the choke. It did improve. Pulled over and move the fuel mixture another 1/2 of turn on each carb, and it was better. Took it home and check the plugs on cylinder #3 and #4 and they were a both the same, but a bit "white" so maybe still lean. I will take it another 1/2 a turn. Just don't remember the carbs being open 3 to 3.5 turns open....... Snow is coming this weekend, so doubt I get a chance to try it again until next week when it warms up........ Thanks for the advice , greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the reply. It's a L28 with 1971 carbs and a early distributor with Pertronix electronic module. Also have the original nissan performance exhaust header. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Do you still have these available?

Thanks for the reply. Went out this morning and started all over on the carbs from ground zero. Checked everything, pulled the domes and checked the needles, did timing, put new plugs in, and took if for a drive. Ran much BETTER! Starts to run out of power at 4K, but no back fire 🙂 So much happier..........

Ok, I have had this car for years, but ran across a new issue. I am pretty good at getting this car tuned, I have had it since 1979....... Took it to the post office the other day and it ran bad, with backfire and hesitation. Seemed a bit better when I pulled the choke slightly, so I went back to the drawing board. Checked timing, all good, electronic ignition fires all plugs. When I pulled the plugs, the first three cylinder plugs had white on them, so I am thinking those are lean! Ok, go to check that carb, and it seems fine. The adjustment screw is 1.5 turns out, the float chamber is full of gas, and I check to make sure the float level adjustment is correct. Before I go any further, I thought I would check in to see if anyone has any advice. If you have any suggestions, please let me know before I dig deeper........

Greetings all, Finally got my 204z out of the garage, and took it for a drive. Car is running pretty good, but when I got out the timing light, I had to retard the timing and loosen the little 8mm nut on the distributor to get the timing marks to get to 10deg. TDC. Seems odd. It seems like the distributor is usually at "O" when I did timing before. I did mess with the oil pump over the winter, and I thought I had the distributor drive at the "11:25" position. So, could I have it off one tooth? Will it run ok if the timing is off one tooth as long as the distributor is retarded? The car is a series one with stock distributor with electronic ignition. Any advice is appreciated.....

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I do run a 240z distributor, so that's why it look like the mounting looks that way. The current distributor has electronic aftermarket in it, but I do have another one with points. Need to clean up the vacuum plate on that one. we do use ethanol free fuel, and will install some new plugs. I have been running at 10 degree BTDC I will try to go up to 15 degrees and see if that helps. So like for now, I won't pull the distributor drive. Thanks for the advice Enjoy