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73str86

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73str86 last won the day on April 17 2018

73str86 had the most liked content!

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About 73str86

  • Rank
    Good Vibes

Contact

  • Map Location
    Otterbein, IN
  • Occupation
    Shift Supervisor A

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z

Recent Profile Visitors

3,297 profile views
  1. Submit 100 photos to Bring a Trailer. Their reserve suggestion might shock you.
  2. I am replacing the early 4 speed with a 280z 5 speed. The original early 4 speed was definitely sloppier than any Z car manual transmission I've ever driven. I'd highly recommend the bushing upgrade mentioned above, although I've never seen them for sale anywhere.
  3. A 1-1/8 inch hole saw is a perfect fit to ream out the front control arm bushings. All bushings will be replaced with polyurethane with the exception of the tension control rod bushings. Those will be a combination of rubber and the G-Machine kit from MSA.
  4. I agree. At the time of purchase I wasn't too concerned with the rivet holes. Hopefully the body shop can finish my core work successfully.
  5. The flap wheels exposed the history of the car: the rear quarters were all original, no bondo, just the original paint and black respray. Neither front fender was original...they had red and teal paint under the black. Both had bondo but no rust was found. I think the PO (sadly) added bondo to the wheel lips to help the cheap flares fit better.
  6. Next up was filling the rivet holes made by the PO around the wheel wells. There were 27 holes total. I sanded the areas to bare metal with an 80 grit flap wheel. A local mobile welder filled the holes with his tig welder and sanded them smooth. All in all I am happy about my decision to save the wheel wells. I painted the wheel lips with 3 coats of grey primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Some paint around the welded areas blistered, but I'm not too worried about that because the car is going to a paint shop this summer for an original color 901 silver respray.
  7. I will keep this matching numbers L24 with 4 screw SUs until (if) I sell the car. Engine stand inspired by the directions on Datsun Spirit's website.
  8. After I pulled the L24 I removed the good working AC components and sold them locally for $100.
  9. The dyno chart is on the previous page. 129 rwhp / 140 rwtq at 6000 ft elevation.
  10. Duffy you've done some great work to this S1 240z! I've been lurking for a while. Nice to see some chronological history of your build instead of just Facebook. - Jeremy Wilbur
  11. Dyno run of the motor in my 73.
  12. This dyno sheet is from 2018 at RPM Performance in Colorado Springs, CO. I edited the numbers. The cam was a lot weaker than I expected. Also my Mikunis and timing are dialed in much further than my previous setup.
  13. The engine is from my wrecked 1973 with approximately 4000 miles on it. Bored 10.0:1 F54 L28, polished crank, $1100 port job on the E88 head, oversize stainless steel valves, Schneider "Stage 3" cam kit with "10k rpm springs." Paired with SUs, Clifford Research 6-2 header, and 2.5" exhaust, the engine dynoed at 129 rwhp/ 140 rwtq at 6000 ft altitude which translates to about 160 hp/tq at sea level. My timing was off and the shop wouldn't let me make any adjustments. The SUs ran out of air at 6300rpms at elevation. Now I'm rocking Datsun Competition Mikuni 44s and a Fujitsubo stainless 48mm primary 6-2 header and twin 60mm pipe exhaust. Next on the performance block will be a one-off cam from Steve Bonk originally ground for the new John Morton car. He wouldn't tell me the specs until I paid! Great guy. Here's a photo of the motor in my 73.
  14. Nowadays I am prepping the suspension components and engine bay. I'm sandblasting the suspension components and they will be painted with Master Series products: Mastercoat and the AG111 Top Coat. I also hired a mobile welder to weld in sway bar reinforcement plates. He did a great job.
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