Mudge

Another 1/4 turn rich helped greatly, but still idle RPM is not always consistent from one stop to the next, occasionally it wants to die, other times a nice "1k RPM" idle (according to the tach). I'll check Napa for a color-tune.

Here is something interesting, I am going to assume its maybe vacuum leak related, but here goes. Basically either the car will idle so low it wants to die (especially when coming to a stop), or if just a minor twich of the choke and it goes from ~500RPM idle to nearly 1200-1500 RPM idle. If I give it a small tap on the gas at the light when its idling low, it will hang around the 1500 RPM mark once again, and if/when it drops its usually pretty slow. Power is pretty good on the street, but I am still suspicious of vacuum leak or maybe incorrect jetting. These are dual Weber downdrafts (32/36), and am assuming the jets are unchanged from the donor setup but am not positive. Now, here is further mystery for me, a non carb person and new to Z land (Haynes manual on the way), the air filters have a barbed plastic connector at the bottom, as if a line goes to them for some purpose, wether EGR or what I am not sure, but they are unhooked at the moment so basically letting in a small amount of unfiltered air. I can snap a pic if this helps, but would you assume this is for EGR and should be plugged up? Or is this for something else that I'm not finding in the harness? 73 240Z, P30 engine (verified on block), idle screws are backed out about 2 1/4 turns

Here is a little bit of stuff http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_weber_tuning.html http://www.triumphspitfire.com/jets.html http://www.racetep.com/weberadj.html Some people have a preference, but overall for most street cars it sounds like there are only minor variances in how one is different than another.

8º difference is definately a difference, but I'd have to input all the data into Engine Analyzler or Desktop Dyno in order to really see the difference, because the lobe may not be as aggressive. I myself probably wouldn't do the swap, but on a budget it might be a nice modest boost in power. Most aftermarket cams vary from one model to the next by 10º. More duration means the valve is open longer, allowing more bleed off at low RPM (which is bad, this means power loss to some extent) but more top end power since there is more time to fill the cylinders. I guess I FINALLY have something to put into these programs now to simulate the engine, although no headflow specs means I'm going to have to end up guessing, but its a start Anyone have headflow specs etc?

That may be a misnomer, since that was the beginning of the smog era, a larger engine doesn't always have a larger cam, but who knows. Doesn't any manual out there list specs? I think it would be a major PITA since you'd have to have new rocker arms regardless, so why not get something even better if your going to all the trouble...

Rocye, which shop is that, and do they offer WBO2? I know of about 2 or maybe 3 in the Sac area, but used a place in San Jose last time, for $100 an hour.

Vettes rock, heavier though and parts $$$$, otherwise I considered a C5 several times, plus they will come down in price when the C6 hits. C4 is nice too, and early C3s (the Mako, the Stingray). Turbos are new, blowers are old news, there are some advantages to either one I suppose but no intercooler, and lower quality gas nowdays, ick. Especially for road racer types, way way too much heat, not an attractive solution I agree on the Turbos giving nearly free HP, thats why we have guys putting out 4 and 5 HP per cube on "street cars" now, and yes blowers suck about 1200 HP on Hemi dragsters or some ungodly number, gas sucker extroidinaire.

Might want to??? I sure hope he already changed the oil! Good luck on the project, I'm soon going to be in the same boat

I had a little under 500 HP in a 3400# car, and that thing was nearly undriveable at speed on any course without monster grip and years of driving experience, if you think a 2200 pound car with 800 HP is going to be driveable by anyone but the most experienced F1 racers......................... Please be realistic, learn to carry your speed with the power that you have, that is how you will be a winning driver.

Even a V8 would have to be very healthily built to put up with that kind of power, your transmission, well sounds like you want a beefy TH400. You'll also need a monster fuel system, thats an obvious given though. I'd go with a V8 myself, broader powerband versus a Supra with a narrow top end. 800 HP with a broader powerband = a faster car overall, and more fun to drive. Your asking for roughly 5.48HP per cube, that is no small feat by any means, but the engine would be very peaky, again, not my idea of a fun car to have power for 1500 RPM only and the rest of the powerband sucks, no fun.

Way too broad a question, NA, Turboed, pump gas, what kind of ignition, and of course as mentioned HOW MUCH MONEY. You could spend $1k-2k on a computer setup, $100-$500 on exaust, or more, $1500 on a top end, $3000 on a bottom end........ How much work will you do yourself, and what are your realistic goals, and what kind of powerband are you looking for. Since your planning to daily drive it, you probably want manners, so be reasonable. If you want real power, in any form, I'd pull the engine or get a spare and at least rering it, fresh bearings, new seals all around, rebuild the top end (springs, rockers etc), throw a cam in it, ported heads, etc all kinds of possibilities, but again the question is unanswerable. The sky and the dollar is the limit.