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4" blocks will work right? Then I'm raising the rears too. Thanks Jeff. You could buzz down here in that 996 and oversee my work.

The general contractor I worked for, for eighteen year's, did a big job for the IRS compound in Memphis after 9/11 securing the place. I spent a lot of time in BB Kings bar on Beale St. I like Bourbon St.better though. Stayed down there off and on for ten years. Worked five Mardi Gras at Mango Mango daiquiri bars. Living life and having fun! Construction is dead after the first of the year so I'd go down to New Orleans for a month and make good money and good relationships, short ones to; the best kind back then. They loved my "good old boy" personality. I made great tips, yes ma'am and yes yes sir, you know what I'm talking about too! 8^)

You right about that! They barely hit the A arms. Instead of lowering my front I'm going to put 4" solid concrete blocks under my front tires. Once the weight of the motor gets on there it'd lower them even more. Luckily I have a high ceiling down there and that gives me plenty of space for the hoist. When I did my 280 I went to the out side of on tire but I had someone pushing it over, unlike this time.

That's a face pisser!

Couldn't stand it! Pint low, now it hits the ceiling.

Well crap! Everything was going so good, hooked the motor to the hoist to get a measurement and realized it it was low on oil and wouldn't max out. Now I have to fix the hoist or borrow one. I think I'll just start drinking and deal with it tomorrow. You all have a nice weekend.

It's going to be done as a Government job, super slow and way too much planning. I'm going to do a dry hoist run and gets measurements. I'm taking a break now from cleaning the floor and moving stuff away from the project car. 8^)

@Terrapin Z and @Captain Obvious It's 6 of one or a half a dozen of the other for me. The price of a set of ZTherapy carbs and the intakes is about the same as what I paid to replace all my '77's EFI system except the ECU, potentiometer on the coolant sensor took care of that. My personal thoughts on my cars are, EFI is consistent and I don't have to touch it plus it gets better fuel economy. SUs on my 240 perform better and can handle a hotter cam but need need to be maintained regularly for the best running. If I had to drive one across the country I'd take the '77 280. I had to look up this word, thanks CO for my lesson of the day (it's early though). I'm an espouser of both.

Uh, the one on the left would hold a couple of flat screens, a bed and a couch. Then of course, ME! Beautiful place you have Guy.

I didn't even notice there wasn't a leveler. Okay, I gotcha. Mine are wide too but it'll come in from the front. Thanks for this, I've never tried without the tires like Mark suggested, but am doing that this time so am going on blind faith.

Holy guacamole! That's vertical almost. My hoist must be different. I don't remember it being that steep.

Tires off or on? My hoist works with the tires on but the legs have to be to one side or the other, not centered from what I remember. I've only put one in before. My 280. Thanks for the input.

Hey @Jeff G 78. I don't understand cheat to the front? Do mean run it all the way to front then level it to the motor with the front and rear chains? I've got it in the front most hole. Here's some pics so far. I'm gonna wait until I know for sure I'm about to do it before pulling the tires and sitting the rears on ramps. I might move over a foot so the hoist's arm will go in between the ceiling joist. Thanks for everyone's help. It builds up my confidence. 8^)

THANK YOU! Great ideas. I'll do the floor jack under the frontcross memberr and a rope with a wooden handle for the tranny. And use ramps facing outward on the rears. I have a plan! Happy happy, joy joy.

Questions? I'm thinking of how to set my car up for motor install, hopefully tomorrow. Should I put the rear tires on ramps? And I've got a set of slots without rubber on them. I was thinking two of those on the front to get it lower? Advice appreciated.

Maybe why my heat didn't work?

I've dry fit the header and it does not hit the bell house like the 280 did. Also I noticed how easy the bolts and nuts are accessible so I will be bolting the header on after the motor is down, I can do the job by myself that way and not worry too much. I've got some real stiff cardboard in between some drop cloth runners I bought for the fenders. 4'x12' folded over the cardboard to 2'x6'. Never in my life have I actually tested a thermostat, how can something that simple not work? Well, well, well they do go bad.

You have a great car from what I can see in the engine bay, it looks to be an unmolested and original ride. Touchdown! You may want to check the oil level in the carbs if you haven't already. I use the 3 in 1 Blue 20 weight. Any hardware store will have it and it only takes a teaspoon or so.

So you had to grind the .190s to .180s? All of them? Thanks for any help, this will be my next project and I'm trying to find out as much as I can.

Just cake and ice cream I'm sure. No liquid refreshments. Happy belated birthday Zup!

Same thing as thermocoupler in a pilot light. I've always been told it has some type of gas in it. If you bend it too tight or break it, no flow no mo!

Once in awhile would be an improvement for me!

I got my Tilton bolted up and the clutch kit on. I can hardly wait to see the difference with the lighter flywheel.

On my 280 you can't separate the telescopic antenna from the motor, it has a plastic toothed cable that runs inside of them. You can buy a universal power antenna for about $30 bucks. Here's a write up on tricking the up and down swith that 240s have. ID #10, or the tenth post. Thanks @Mike for putting those up for us.

You can bleed out the air when you find the, an·tip·o·dal anˈtipədl/ adjective relating to or situated on the opposite side of the earth