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siteunseen

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Posts posted by siteunseen

  1. ·

    Edited by siteunseen

    On 3/6/2025 at 10:27 PM, Richard McDonel said:

    Am refinishing hubcaps off my '71 Series 2. Like most old cars, mine has after-market mags, but now I have the steelies and want to go back to original. Chrome and paint the hubcaps need but what is the original colour - I tend to think it's just off black, tending towards dark blue, but is it flat or gloss?

    Many thanks,

    Richard

    Here's a lot of good information on the steelies and the hub caps.

    EDIT: I added another good one. For some reason I thought they were the same thread....oh yeah, I just woke up.

  2. 10 hours ago, Mike said:

    Looks like something to do with our SSL certificate not being detected by your browser. Does it happen all the time or every now and then? Also make sure that you are going to https://www.classiczcars.com (not http://) - Possibly need to update a bookmark?

    Mike

    Mine says "www.classiczcars.com/discover/20/". I'm using windows 11 and google as my browser, ad block turned off for this page and I never get the "accept cookies" so I must have accepted them at some point.

    It does it every now and then. No biggie, thanks for all you do for us knuckleheads.

  3. 3 hours ago, zKars said:

    The memory is swirling with details of tow hooks, but I would like to point out that from the point of view of originality, the presence of tow hooks is optional.

    First remember they are tie down hooks, not tow hooks. They secured the car to the boat they came over on.

    Memory of past discussions suggests there was a Nissan order to dealers that they be removed before selling. Correct me if that’s wrong. Seems from the many Z’s I’ve seen, most still had “some” so I suspect many dealers didn’t bother.

    So it would appear to be “Correct” to have them or not on a restoration. If you could somehow know if they were there or not on delivery day for your particular car, then you would know to either include them or not to make it “right”.

    Then the issue of what particular style was installed at each of the four spots comes up, but I think that was covered in some other thread.

    I made a coat hook rack for the back of my shop door out of some of the ones I have laying around. Probably sacrilege to some. Too bad.

    IMG_1553.jpeg

    How many timing chains around the Z? That is a great piece of artwork you've made there.

    I want one!!!!

  4. 1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

    Interesting.  Where does this hose go to?  That's the one that would go to the bottle.

    image.png

    It goes to the bottle I've never paid attention to.

    Paying attention is like having bullets in a gun. I missed that one though. Damned if I'm not getting old.

    20250228_220505.jpg

  5. I used a wet/dry shop vac to suck all the coolant out and used the vacuum suction on the heater core to check it for leaks,cracks. Then new valve and hoses. I move the controls levers when I drive mine to keep things freed up.

    My tip to save your back is put a couch cushion on the door sill and use 1/4" sockets. It's one of the hardest jobs I've done that sounds easy. Have fun! LOL

     

  6. 10 hours ago, SteveE said:

    While waiting for some parts and supplies I thought I would install the R/T mount I bought a decade ago😅.  For the life of me I can not figure out how to get that done.

    Any hints would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Steve

    Here's some threads on that. I never knew it was called a Ron Tyler mount.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=r%2Ft+mount+installation+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=r%2Ft+mount+installation+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEJMTc2OTVqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

  7. 1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

    My 280 starts smoother and easier than that. Even when cold and without a CSV. And if I prime the fuel system first, it starts even easier.

    Did you put the ZX distributor on your 280? I've got one on mine and it fires right up with all that cold start stuff removed.

    I'll mention it again, how about the valves? 

  8. I used this stuff to fix my broken console. Used it on the bottom side mainly and smoothed out the excess on the top side with fine sandpaper. Turned out good and is still holding up. That was 2015. There's other "strengths" too.

    image-1

  9. There's no fuel in the cabin so if that's where you smell it it's gotta be the weatherstripping. Easy way is to extend the tailpipe, maybe turn it down too. The rear hatch is usually the suspect.

    If it's under the hood, most likely the cold start injector if everything else is right. You can make a new gasket out of a cereal box or gasket material. I used Fruity Pebbles or Coco Puffs, can't remember? Stay away from bran.

     

  10. ·

    Edited by siteunseen

    13 hours ago, MH77280Z said:

    vacuumline.jpg

    I like your valve cover. I sand blasted a few over the years but the last one I added some shine with super fine sandpaper. I did the Nissan part and liked it so I went further and shined up the 3 lines that run the length of the cover. Then cleared it with high heat satin. I don't have a picture of the final iteration but you see the start...

    valve cover #2.jpg

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