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siteunseen

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Posts posted by siteunseen

    ·

    Edited by siteunseen

    And be sure it's a high pressure pump for EFI. The fuel line going into the fuel filter should be as hard a rock with pump on.

    Also the hose coming out of the filter will be hard from pressure. The fuel pressure regulator is what brings it down a little, 32psi IIRC.

    You can get the metal fuel filter for $10 to $20.

    Good luck!

    • Agree 1

    ·

    Edited by siteunseen

    When you click on Zed Head's link to atlanticz find TPS Adjustment and see if any of that sounds familiar. There easy to fix once you where the vanes are supposed to be.

    Oh yeah. Those AFM black covers get popped off and on all the time. I can't remember the times I've read on here of people screwing with the wheel and wishing they hadn't. Look for those factory silicone blobs.

    • Agree 1

    9 hours ago, hotsho111 said:

    hanks for the tips, I was using the choke.

    I need to give the carbs a once over in general, as it hasn't started right since I got it, I just had to deal with the gas tank first (which has taken forever) so haven't had a chance to get back to it, but slowly getting there

    This was a huge help for me since I had no clue about the carbs. I'll also add mine was a hard start too until I adjusted the valves. That helped a lot.

    On 7/27/2025 at 2:01 PM, Zed Head said:

    Sample size cannot get any smaller. I doubt that that's why they come out since the the space between the rocker arm and the valve/pad assembly would have to open up enough to allow the lash pad to pop out. No logical reason for the divot to stop that from happening. Besides the fact that many people have had that happen when they restart old factory stock engines that have been sitting for a while. Most people think it's caused by sticking valves. Maybe your guy sets his guide clearances too tight.

    But, he's the builder. Good luck.

    I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

    • Like 2

    ·

    Edited by siteunseen

    Those run through the manifolds to warm up a cold set of carbs. They circulate coolant through the bypass lines on the passenger's side and then the thermostat housing. I think they are a potential leak waiting to happen so I have mine disconnected. It's plenty warm in Alabama so they add unnecessary heat through my manifolds. The bigger one near the windshield is actually a thermostat that closes the flow off when it gets to a certain temp and you're right about the front nipple, it goes to the thermostat housing.

    Here's a bunch of threads about it.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTMwNTQ5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

    • Like 1

    The smart ones hide, sit back and chill. That's why I'm on here everyday, trying to learn something. 😁

    Bugging the $^!# out of everybody...

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2

    I think the flat bottom ones are for grinding down? They sent me .190 with my cam kit. I thinks that's a little thick and they say it's all they have. Won't know for sure until I use them so...probably never. 🤣🤣

    • Like 1

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