siteunseen

Does your's have the electronic ignition distributor off a ZX? I do and my distributor is just about maxed out on the adjust plate. FYI How's it run? I can get 6,500rpms with my stock 2.4 and SU carbs, fairly new rebuild.

That shiny link only lines up with #1 every so many times. It moves around I found out the hard way. If the line is out of the grove you can pull the cam sprocket and put the shiny link on #2 or #3. That is for chain stretch over the years. Not too bad a job if you have a timing chain wedge tool. That will keep the chain and tensioner in place while you remove the sprocket. If the chain falls into what they call "the hole of doom" you have to take the front of the motor off to get the tensioner back in place. Major PITA. Try googling 240z cam sprocket position. Maybe you'll see something. There's an illustration in the factory service manual you will hopefully find, google images. Here it is

I dug this out. Your welcome to it. I think this is the passenger's side? I also have the driver's side. Goes in front of the tire.

If you've ran that combo and it didn't make any ticking noise then whatever overbore you have is adequate I guess? Mine is 83mm and the vales were hitting. Once I had the block notched I put the bigger vales N47 back on there and the valves would fall through the cylinder without any interference. I had to use clothes pins to hold them up but as I released those the valves dropped right out the bottom.

Here's what can happen if you don't remove enough, scares me now because mine look very close to his. "looks like #1 didn't get clearances correctly on the notching so it cleared itself. Tough motors these are!" Click on my username below to go straight to the post, "siteunseen replied to a topic" That's the way I did mine, measured about 900 times made the marks where the valves SHOULD tap and started grinding away. Here's a good picture of a factory notch job from Nissan I think, for an Australian Cedric??? Here's another picture I found of mine. I sat a disassembled big valve N47 with the valves loosely in the head on top of my 2.4 block. Chucked the valve stems to my drill and let them spin. Here you can see the scratches it put on my 2.4 block. That's what I used for starting point. I went way out and overboard doing this because it was all new to me and I only have one good 2.4 block. Another thing I just remembered was to lay a 280 head gasket over the 240 block and scribe around the cylinders. It's just 3mm difference but it helped me know how far out the notches needed to be. And if you'll notice the darker ring around the tops of the cylinders on my block below that was another way of knowing how far to notch them. So...notch the block before you have it vatted and honed. I'm done know, this is my experience with notching a 2.4 block. Other people will have other opinions. Put them all together and come up with a plan. Good luck.

I considered it a new hole. More my size.

So Greg do y'all cook dumplings under that dutch oven? I can sometimes blame it my Buddy boy, he's a stinky whoopie cushion. Then I have to lock him out and no more excuses. The one who smelt it dealt it I always say. He's a farter.

She needs a 240 bumper and brackets, right Greg. I love my skinny bumper. Wow that's what I said about that meth head I went out with a couple months ago. I thought she was a super model until a tooth fell out.

I replaced all of mine and new clamps from O'Reilly auto parts. Had to use two 3/4" PEX 90s for the 180 bend at the top of he tank and a 1/2" elbow where the smallest vent goes into the tank above the sending unit. I'll try and find the thread and post it tomorrow. Cost $65.

Your right, without the console and no stopping point all the way back it hits on the first couple of bumps. Starts rich smoking in a minute or less. But oil pressure is strong and after a minute I can smell like a race car driver. The reason I have to use choke is I only drive it once a month. After the nozzles are full it's good for a day or two though. The weather is about to brake and I can drive it some more.

Awe man that (dirty word) SUCKS! Go the oldest painter in town, he has painted a Z I'd bet. Get the parts list from the estimate and post it up. I've put a 240 bumper And Xenon spoiler on mine and have those small pices under the headlights you can have, maybe something else I got? Also Bo Gibbs junkyard from the '60s is right before Albertville. They have 4 or 5 280Zs I get parts off. You now we're gonna keep you and Lisa at the local shows representing Datsun. Cliff

ozdat.com engine calculator I believe. You plug in you info and it calculates compression ratio.

I put an aluminium flywheel on my 2.4 with an early E88, small valves. I went ahead and notched the block while I was there because I have an E31 head with big valves like your N42. Cam kit and all that jazz but honestly I'm enjoying the light flywheel higher revving enough that the cam installation on the E31 has fallen to the bottom of "need to do" list. And as I said before we have way too many cops patrolling the streets in my small town. That's how they're making the money around here. More displacement with the 2.8 block and bigger valve N42 head. If your bored I'd go for it. Some day soon I hope do the same. Hey I know a good page you should read. datsungarage.com That will answer a lot of questions. Cliff Another good read is member Diseazed's builds. He has 5 or 6 240s with hot rodded ZX motors and loves them. Google "Diseazed build classiczcars.com". I think that'll get you there.

You'll have barely notch out the tops of the bores on the smaller block. N42 head has bigger valves for the 86mm bores it was paired with and they hit the 83mm e-31 bores. Google " notching 240z block classiczcars.com". Click on images and you see mine and member Madkaw's too. We both did ours about a year ago. There's tricks that make it easy to. I'll try and gather up some threads you should read, tomorrow. It's beer:30 here.

That makes sense, thank you Mark. I put the console back in today after rerouting the choke light switch wires below the handle. I just today realized the cables were rubbing the wires. Moved them around and put a good black tape wrap around them. I'm gonna get to the cables in the morning. Damn heat came back down here after a beautiful week. 50s at night, 70s in the day, wonderful. It'll be back in a few weeks I hope.

That's been done soooooo many times, 280 EFI goes bad and people swapped to SUs. a lot of 240s have 2.8 block and head combo and run carbs. The carbeurators are so easy to richen up you won't have any trouble in my opinion. Google "quick and dirty SU tuning classiczcars.com", save that then when you switch you'll have some good basic info to get them right. Keep us posted with the build. I have an F54 ZX block just begging to get in my 240 but I'm lazy and the 2.4 block runs fine for me. Too many police around.

I put an Art Singer choke mount in and adjusted the cable ends at the carbs with the console out of the car. I installed the console a few months ago and the choke lever hit the console before "full choke". I took it back out thinking I needed to move the mount further up but it appears to be dead on per the instructions. Would it be okay to loosen the cable ends on the carbs and pull them out a little more? I'm thinking I can pull them out until right before they start to actuate the linkage on each carb then tighten the screw on the little barrels that hold the cables. Is it that simple or am over thinking this? That console is very fragile and expensive so I want to do this once and done. Thanks for any advice. Cliff

Found it! Click on Marks name below. FUNNY

Mine went down deeper than that. Can you tell if it's bottomed out? Maybe get a wooden dowel or the handle of a screwdriver and try to tap it down farther. I learned a neat way to saturate that bronze with oil. I think it's called sweating the bushing but you put it between your pinching fingers, fill it up with oil and pinch it until you see the oil start "sweating" through to the outside. Tom Monroe's rebuild book showed me that.

You been eating chili for 3 days and looking for a vacuum leak? I think I have an idea of where it's coming from, I'm sure your wife knows.

No Noah that was my attempt at humor for Mr Mark Maras. About a year or so ago I hurt my hand or fingernail or something really sissy and got on here complaining. Mark operates heavy equipment. While doing some maintenance on a front end loader or something similar he unfortunately lost most of a finger but never said a word until I get on here complaining about blue fingernail. I'll try and find the thread later today. His hands look like sledgehammers! If he's got a daughter and I went to pick her up for a date and Mark said have her home by midnight, 11:30pm and I'm there.

I remember my Dad saying he did that to a '57 Bel Air he had. He said they used a spark plug for the ignitor. Something else he said that I've never understood was "uncapped headers". When they would race he would slide something out that would let the exhaust flow straight out of the header, put it back to drive home??? My expirences were flooring an old Pontiac Catilina, kitty cat we called it, for a few seconds turn the key off for another second then back on. BOOM every time until the exhaust fell apart. That was a farm car my uncle had to drive around and check on his cows. Good and toasty heater and cold AC. Had mudder rear tires and no fender skirts, ugliest car you ever saw but boy was it fun for a couple of kids.

Good catch! There was a recent thread on a Pacesetter header fitment on a '78 auto transmission Z. He had bought '77 -'83 and it did not line up with the stock exhaust. He figured it out too, '77-'78 are different than the ZXs exhaust where the collector meets the straight pipe beside the drive shaft.

Can't beat that! You'd be good at cards Zed H. You have quick and "Total Recall".