GIchiro

Outstanding Namerow!! Thank you. GI

I have looked at that article but it only lets me see the first page.

Is the car still available for sale? Thanks, GI

Does anyone have a picture detail of the wiper linkage to wiper motor detail. There is a cup and spring and a few other goodies. I cannot find, in my Datsun book, any detail of the order. Thanks, GI

I have the same issue but I bought the z car depot LED dome light and it only has 2 wires from it. So how do I wire that when I have 3 for the original dome light? What a complicated wiring setup. I bought a colored elec diagram on the line, had it blown up huge and laminated. And I am still going insane because it just doesn't seem right.

If Mallory wasn't bought out by MSD I would have access to directions. The adj. vacuum on a Mallory was a small allen set screw inside the vacuum pot where the vacuum hose connected too. I just wish I had some instructions. The "Z Guy" who installed it is no longer around.

I have a mallory dist for my 240Z. It is the mechanical and vacuum adv. type. Does anyone know if the vacuum advance is adjustable? I cannot see inside the vacuum hose nipple if there is an allen screw inside. -Many Mallory dist. have adj. vacuum advance. Thank,s GI

Hello everyone, I am near finishing a 6 year restoration and am ready to part with the extra z parts I bought and ended up not using. For starts: R200- 3.90 ring/pinion. hot tanked painted new seals/bearings (yes the snout bearing also as it is Expensive- I'd like to get 500$. It is not LSD) R180- original from 1973 240z in great shape just not all pretty like the R200. 100.00$ 1/2 shafts in great shape- 100$/pair Mustache bar for R180- 40$ Front strut tubes/spindles- 150 for the pair. Bead blasted and primered Rear drum brakes-Complete lots of mileage left on them 80$ for the pair. -1973 wiring harness in great shape- 600$ -New frt brakes: slotted rotors, loaded calipers/new flex line- 200$ -email me for other items and pics. 5x Koenig rewinds 15" with hankook's (only 500 miles on tires, and #5 tire has zero miles)- 500.00$ donaldvieira@comcast.net GIchiro located in Central, CA (209)

I have had the pleasure to buy parts from Edan. He is a humble young man with a passion for the 240Z. It is this younger generation, the very few, that keep Old School passions alive. I appreciate what he does; he is always available, and it is never a bother for him to discuss Z car related items/issues. As for the " being out of his apartment...", comment, I feel that is garbage. Many successful business started in a garage (Hewlett-Packard, Apple, etc) and I applaud Edan for being true to his Passion. He will be successful. GIchiro

Arne I think you were right about the TS switch. -in checking for continuity between wires we pullud a couple connectors off an 2 wires (green and black) were ever so slightly not locked into place. No we have brake lights!!! -Thanks for all the help. GI

Now I am almost insane. -Took both TS switches and cleaned all ther contacts and checked all the wires to make sure they are soldered and in place. --Now I have the passenger brake light working and no driver side brake light!!! The bridge jump is looking better and better. GI

Thanks Arne. -I updated the "About me" section. not sure how to do the Auto-signature yet. - I will re check the TS as I just bought a guaranteed good used one recently and all worked initially. Thanks, GI

Apologies. -1973 240z MFG date 03/73 with 9 pin light/washer switch. -It has 3 wires to the bulb: 1=black 2=Green 3=Green/blk stripe Thanks, GI

I am confused here. I have all the rear tail lights operating correctly except the passenger side brake light. -All bulbs are checked and ok. -Turn signals/hazards work fine. -Could the socket be bad? Thanks, GI

-Mike W. is the King!!! My used switch was missing the detents/springs. My old switch had the red wire break off so I re-soldered it. Have Lights now!!!!! -The relays: 1-Removed the fp relay and another relay (the 6 pin with 3 rows of 2. I found that that relay had a "free wire" in the engine compartment (blk/ylw) and the sold ylw went to the MSA voltage regulator adapter and then went to the fp relay so I eliminated that relay and the car still started and is charging. -I still hope to find out what the other relays do. The small one with the 2 grns may be a buzzer. -I hope someone else with issues may find this helpful. Don

Wow I am going crazy. I have a '73 z 4 spd(02/73 mfg date) with the elec fuel pump and 9 pin combo (headlight/wiper/washer) switch. -MSA alt upgrade killed my battery so after research realized that it keeps the fp relay on so I disconnected it. -MSA headlight relay harness. Lights don't go on but they did prior to my son installing a refurbished turn signal switch. Read Mike W's pdf and am going to try that. -I have a few relays on the passenger side and was wondering what is what. a. I realized the FP was the warm to touch relay. b. I have another relay that has 6 pins (2 rows of 3) with wires grn-grn-blk/ylw-2 blk in same spade. c.The pigtail also connects to the fp relay ,then to ylw-blk/ylw into the engine compartment, and lastly to 2 connectors at the center console area2 greens with a blk/wht that connects to both connectors. I really want to ID all the crazy relays on that passenger side. I cannot believe this car has so many wires!!!! I may need to consider a simpler aftermarket harness. -My color coded wiring diagram from ebay doesn't seem to match up too well. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Don

Thanks for the ideas. I really like both and will have z-car garage do the final install/tune. Much Gratitude, CIchiro

Does anyone have pics of their MSD 6a instal? I am looking for the best place to mount the box and promaster coil. Thanks, GI

That was too funny. Here I am trying to make an install tool. Worked like a charm. . Thanks, GIchiro

How in the world does one install that little retainer on the window crank? Thanks

Just bought new door lock key cylinders (unfortunately made in Hong Kong "ChingYing" on the key). -Installed and they won't lock or unlock the door. -Tried to swap the old lock lever and it would unlock but not lock the door. -Do I need to lengthen the linkage bar a touch? It seems that I need more "throw" to acivate the lock/unlock. Thanks, GIchiro

I took my sons Z to Rob Fuller @ z car garage in San Jose. I am no easy sell so after many phone calls/emails I felt Rob was a good choice. Rob was aware and respectful of this "Father/son" build and was infomative/kept us "up to date" on what we we looking at ("new"1973 Z buy) for future maint/upgrades etc. I had Rob "dial in the SU's. WOW what a difference!!!!!!!!!!!! The crew at Z car garage (Fred/Joshua/AT/ one other young man) were all great. Rob has assembled a fine crew and I cannot say enough on how happy I was with his work/recommendations, etc. Rob took the time to answer every question I had and he was happy to have helped. You can't do better than that. Thanks Z-Car Garage!!! Don Vieira

I have a 1973 240z and I am getting confused on the mastercylinder res cups and the master to prop valve connections. -Is the larger res cup at the front or rear of the master cylinder? -Please confirm the larger cup is for the front brakes. -At the prop valve is the bottom line closest to the firewall go to the front or rear cup at the master cylinder? -I cannot find a schematic and pic I have seen show the res. cups in both front and rear configurations. Thanks, GI

Would a 280z strut assy work? -It seems to use the same caliper/ inner & outer brgs/ball joint/lwr arm, but the rotor seems to be different. Thanks, GI

Was looking more closely at the strut today and it may be the culprit. I noticed a weld bead all the way around the lower tube as it attahes to the spindle section. I wonder if it can be straightened out or if used ones are available. gi