Patcon

@jonbill You were correct, good remote diagnosis

No body makes full rear quarters, th hat I know of. One of the better panel makes, might make the jambs for you

Is there a hole in the chassis there for a speaker?

Good to know

And it was easy to find and fix!

Thanks any way. Anyone else have a 510 they can post detail pics of the window sweeps?

Copart valuations are all based on a complete properly repaired vehicle. So that's probably pretty close

They're running a sale https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/

I think the Devilbiss starting line guns are a great intro gun with out breaking the bank https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO

I know they can be relined (it's expensive), but I thought someone was making new aluminum drums Found: https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-oem-aluminum-rear-brake-drums-nos-2/ https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5050A So I would say out of spec is scrap metal. If they can be turned, I would do that

Copart pulls the valuation out of a data base, like NADA guides. I don't where they pull the classic car valuations from

Can you post some picture for me to show how it behaves? Or are you 510less?

Once the tar mat is really cold, it tends to come off in big pieces. Most just spread it in the floor board, chill, then use a hammer and a scraper. Some have even been able to use a rubbef mallett and just strike the floor and the mat shatters off in pieces.

Tar pad comes off best with dry ice

I bought this gun today DEVILBISS 905043 Prolite Gravity HE TE10 TE20 1.2 1.3 1.4 Spray Gun Kit w/ Cup https://www.ebay.com/itm/133769934729?epid=28045770277&hash=item1f254f3789:g:y80AAOSw9GRgq3iN Eastwood had a good price but was $30 more on Black Friday than this seller. The seller on Ebay seems to sell all name brand stuff, so I went that way. I will verify it's an actual DeVilbiss when it gets here

These fuel injection systems like the system to be closed up. If the valve cover is vented to the atmosphere, the EFI shouldn't like that. If it does, it may have been "adjusted" to compensate for that. Air leaks tend to make the EFI run like garbage...

So I am about to double check the tail light panel fitment but I keep breaking the retaining clips. So I had to buy some. They look really good but they're not cheap! You can see where the old one is cracked on top I had one fail the other day and half of it went zinging across the shop. I also started filling in the flaws on the rear the other day. It's gonna need some more high build...

So Cody was tinkering with his car some today. I have a question now. When the left rear window is rolled all the way up you can see the metal bracket that holds the glass. Is this correct? On the front drivers side it doesn't look like that. Left rear Front left

$11,700 now!!!! Runs today

Happy thanksgiving to all my friends on the best car forum around!

Serious money!!! Imagine the shop insurance? "Yes, we need a $100,000,000 of insurance coverge." "You need what???" 😂

If it quits knocking when pushing the clutch, then its a clutch issue or the front half of the transmission cluster. I dont remember the whole thread but I would suspect a main bearing issue

I would say blue is better. Black is also a dead give away someone's been in the motor

I agree. You need to try to move the valve by hand, like Jeff and others recommended. If it moves freely I would reassemble it and run a compression test. If all the numbers look reasonable, run it. After verifying oil flow and valve lash! Pogden's help would probably be good. Did you check valve lash before startup? Did you verify oil flow at the rockers before startup?

All kinds of possibilities: The valve could have gotten sticky The valve lock might not have been all the way in Could have just been a fluke I would have real hope if the spark plug wasn't trashed. The valve might be bent but shouldn't be cost prohibitive to get corrected