Jump to content
Remove Ads

Patcon

Subscriber

Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Yes, I believe they are original C
  2. I had the same gold stickers in mine too. They didn't go back. I also had the fully dis-assemblable joints
  3. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Then, I would run them. Just my opinion...
  4. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I have the ratchet in M12. It works good but then you have 2 kinds of batteries. they make it in M18 too but it's a lot bulkier
  5. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Do they have visible cracking in the sidewalls?
  6. $30k with 6 days to go? I suspect a lot higher!
  7. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I switched to M18 tools for all my work tools a while back. Overall, really nice. The batteries are expensive
  8. Conedoger I believe...
  9. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    My point was what Zkars said, hose diameter is what matters for air tools, not PSI rating. A small diameter hose doesn't feed a sufficient volume of air for an impact wrench. Sort of like breathing through a straw. 250 Ft/Lbs is probably optimistic. Probably need a better impact. If the engines in the car try Zkars idea
  10. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    What impact did you already try? What size hose? How much air pressure and volume?
  11. I would be careful about adding waxes and grease to polish your raw metal! Some platers get really upset with contaminants on the parts. Also it could affect finished plating. I wouldn't bat an eye at plating any of those parts. I have done some plating in my shop and have found the parts to be nice and shiny if they are prepped to the level you already have.
  12. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    use "car-part.com" and search for engines near you
  13. Most platers will acid dip/pickle before plating and some like the plater motorman7 uses also have a blasting process they use ( I believe). You don't really need to get all the zinc off but it can accumulate on threads and things and make tolerances tight. If it's not all gone, new zinc lays right down over the old zinc if it's properly degreased
  14. Pretty car! Looks cheap...;)
  15. I am still wondering on how you will pass emissions with all these changes?
  16. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I agree, use a chemical stripper. Then leave it bare. You could phosphate it if you wanted to
  17. That takes brass!! Back then if you got badly hurt they might not be able to put you back together again
  18. I feel your pain!! I tore part of the tendons at the top of my hamstrings in July. Just now really healing up. Really sucks when its painful to sit
  19. Why do some of those pictures distort?
  20. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I think I would go back with a hacksaw and maybe a cheap floor jack. Cranks run $1500 and up these days. If you have to, pay a buddy $50 or a case of beer to help
  21. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    If it was down near Houston or Corpus Cristi, it rusted from the salt water breezes. Not all of Texas produces low rust cars
  22. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Build Threads
    What did you clean the wires with?
  23. At 75 some odd years of age!!
  24. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    The only Zs that tend to be rotten in the filler neck area are either badly rusted or salt road cars. I would assume when finished repairing the car, salt exposure will be limited or non existent. So I think the drain is unneeded. Also if you made a drain it is likely to rot from salt too. So it probably won't stop the issue
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.