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Hey Thanks for the input everyone. Mike - When the car is off, I can shift it between gears successfully, such that when I turn it on I'm in that gear. When the motor is running, any attempt to shift results in grinding, regardless of whether I'm pushing on the clutch pedal or not.

Howdy. Picked up a '71 240z a month or two ago to give my '70 a buddy. We don't get around to the local clubs often, so I could tell the green car was getting lonely. Only too happy to oblige. The car hasn't been run in close to a decade, but otherwise the list of things it needs are far shorter than another will-not-be-named project I attempted earlier this spring. After getting it running (shop vac proved helpful for removing acorns from carbs), I found there was absolutely no resistance in the clutch pedal. Replaced Slave/Master cylinders, vacuum-bled the system and attempted to run once more. No-good. Looks like the clutch is seized. I'm planning on replacing the motor (stock L24, head allegedly has a mild cam) & transmission (roadster 5-speed) this fall, so the object of getting it running was simply to enjoy the car as-is in the meantime without digging into it too much. That being said, I really don't want to separate the transmission or replace the clutch. So... I came across this write-up for resolving the issue: http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/604.html I was going to give it a shot this Saturday. If the flywheel explodes, so be it. Any other non-invasive ideas? I've heard running a screwdriver in the clutch-fork and wiggling might free the rust as well.

Thanks Chuck. That’s a lot better than the two partials my car came equipped with. I can’t ask you to take the complete one out to measure though – if it snapped in the process we’ll have done more harm than good. I know others have made reproductions of these clips before. I’ll have to either track some down myself or hope someone has a spare! Famous last words: How hard can it be?

Guy - Great looking car. It was also nice to meet you at the Manassas show earlier this spring. If only I could get one of my two cars looking anything close to this. Don't toss that auto transmission! Someday I'll convince my wife she wants a Roadster and it'll need to be an automatic.

Thanks much, Chuck.

Does anyone have a complete reproduction part (or original? eh? eh? yeah right!) we could borrow to do some measuring?

Good luck!

Thank you both. Up and running.

Good Morning All, Picked up another 240z which came installed with Weber DGV's. I'll be having a motor built this Fall for it, which I'll pair with a set of triples, but for now I'd like to get the car back to running as-is. The car has not run since 2000. Aside from all the 'basic' tune-up stuff already done, I'm unacquainted with the DGV's. I've done quite a bit of reading on here, but my question is a bit more basic: I didn't get a chance to look into this too much last weekend - it's tomorrow's project. When I move the throttle linkage at the firewall, the butterflies on top of the carbs don't budge. Do these require engine vacuum or something to move? The motor is un-molested, and nothing appears to be missing or stuck. Thanks in advance, Bill

Hi Sean, Welcome to the area. I live in Falls Church, a few minutes south of McLean. If you need anything when you get to the area, let me know. Cheers, Bill

I've had Eiji rebuild & tune my Solex carbs. Top notch. I'd echo what everyone else has said, but add that he's pretty well in touch with the folks in Japan who are posting big HP numbers with NA L-Series engines, and anyone looking to spend serious money on a motor would do well to have a conversation with him. His current white 240z 'daily driver' is incredibly impressive. Can't wait to see his blue 280z hit the road. His website is being reworked.

He says it was FDM, or Fused Deposition Modelling. As for the material, perhaps it's SLS within an FDM process? Sounds like alphabet soup.

Too tall? Misaligned? Oh boy, those sound like challenges for an engineer! SLA vs. SLS... not a clue: But I'll find out!

My brother is a Mechanical Engineering student down at UVA, so when he bragged that he had access to CAD and a Plastic Printer, I gave him the (small) challenge of reproducing some clips for my inspection panels. Unfortunatly I didn't have access to an original, just my broken pieces. He's just got the first batch back, and I'm excited to see how it fits/works. From the photos I don't think it'll be strong enough, but he claims he's pinched it pretty darn hard without fail. Time will tell. Will report back if they actually work (though I know they don't look original).

Ran Across DatsunPartsLLC's eBay posting today for a rattle can of paint for restoring the 240z Tail Light shroud. Great, except that it's $30/can, plus another $12 for shipping. I can't seem to find much on the subject; does anyone know a good alternative for getting close to the original color that doesn't does $42 for a can of spraypaint? Thanks much, Bill Ref: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-OEM-Z-240Z-True-Taillight-Panel-Grey-NEW-Factory-Color-Paint-Can-/400290950344?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d33332cc8&vxp=mtr#ht_1162wt_1037

PM sent, thanks. Never thought to ask them direct, though I did dig through their site. Much appreciated everyone.

I'm throwing my hands up in defeat: Is there a place online that hosts an old copy of one of the BRE/Interpart Catalogs? I've seen multiple references on this site to specific part numbers (Struts, jacks, airdams, etc.) but I'd really like to dig through a Catalog to see what all was available back in the day. Looking to pick up a '72 parts car this weekend which has some BRE Stickers under the hood. At first glance I didn't see anything special (stock 3-Screw, no headers, etc.), and perhaps it's the equivalent of someone tacking a "DINAN" badge on a BMW without swapping parts. But in case something is there, I'd like to know what all to be looking for. I'll keep checking eBay though. Cheers and Thanks,

Thanks for the input. I couldn't get a truck together in time to haul down a trailer, and someone bought it that afternoon; an hour after I was supposed to be there. Drat! The hunt continues for a solid '75.

Photos: http://imgur.com/a/0Pney Haven't had a chance to see it in person, but someone snagged these photos of it. Stock '75 280z... surface rust on hood, near windshield, and back right fender. Otherwise floor pans, frame rails, doors, deck lid, (common areas) are all purported to be in great shape. Mechanically, the owner says it's straight. Anything scare you off right away? My other car didn't have this type of rust, so I'm not sure how deep it might go. Thanks in advance for your 2-cents.

Thanks for the input All: I researched OER ($70+ship), JCCJDM.com (~$160), eBay, Craigslist, read through the forums, and dug through Japan's Yahoo Auctions ($70+Ship) with my browser's translate feature prior to posting here. Unfortunately the word Mikuni is used on this site as frequently as the term "Blonde" is on the internet as a whole, and "Heat Shield" yieldled some folks talking about $150 parts from Japan and making them at home. I was hoping to catch an obvious source I had missed; Mikunis are a new area for me. I do not have the tools, space, parts, metal-working know-how, or desire to make one myself. I am not what you call "Crafty" in that sense and unless I want my heat-shield to look like the lid of an old metal trash can, I don't very much want to go that route. I wouldn't chalk it up to laziness, but perhaps you might. Travel'n Man: I appreciate the PM and the help; that thread was a good read and admittedly I had not stumbled upon it yet. It was even more beneficial to find a source for all the stubborn linkage parts that I've been fumbling on Japanese websites for. I had already tasked my brother to work up CAD drawings for one of the linkage Arms. Time to tell him to stop working. Datsun Spirit out here in Manassas has them for $80, and I can pick it up Saturday. The problem solved itself. Thanks everyone for the help. Let's call this horse dead.

Sorry all. Appreciate you looking at the thread though. Disregard thread.

I've gotten lucky in many ways so far with this Mikuni project, but it's looking like I might have to bite the bullet here... All I can find for a heat shield online looks to run around the $150 ballpark. That seems extreme to me, but considering I won't/can't make my own, perhaps that's the point. I haven't reached out to the race shops yet, but does anyone know something obvious I'm missing in terms of sourcing one of these?

Robello for the win! Thanks again for the tip. Problem solved.

Thanks for the Tip, I'll give them a call when the West Coast wakes up. I know these things are sitting in the corner of some shop or someone's garage somewhere, all covered in dust and waiting for me to find them.

Good Morning, Does anyone know any sources for Mikuni 44phh Parts other than Wolf Creek (They're out of stock at the moment). I need two butterflies/ throttle plates for the 44phh carbs; the ones stamped 175, and there doesn't seem to be many of those for sale anywhere. I'm happy to go used, so long as they're straight. The car is being tuned at the moment and we're at a standstill until I can find them. Any help would be appreciated,