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I wanted to maintain an original look inside my '70 to the extent possible, but also use my iPod for most of my music. I did some digging and found this thing: Amazon.com: Scosche FM-MOD02 Universal Audio Input FM Modulator for iPod, Satellite Radio or Portable Music Player: MP3 Players & Accessories You wire it in-line with your FM antenna, and by flipping the switch you change the input to the radio - either the FM antenna, or your Aux input. Both the switch and the box are hidden in the dash on my car, and only the input line is visible running to my iPod (when it's hooked up). Otherwise, you'd have no idea it's there.

Thank you both. New engine Plate ID came back from the engraver damaged. Mike is taking a look at it

Got the motor dropped in this past weekend. It detracts from the Dalmatian theme, if only a little.

Picked the motor from Datsun Spirit on another ridiculously cold day: L28/N47 combination with flat-top pistons. 10.52:1 compression ratio. Lightweight flywheel. Going to be fun!

Stripped/painted the horns and hard-line mounts, just so they'd be clean. Didn't put too much thought into it, but black trim pieces + white engine bay = Dalmation car. Stupid stupid stupid.

Restored the engine bay before dropping in the new motor. Ordered paint from AutomotiveTouchup.com and used Polar White, #215. It's not the same color as the exterior, but hopefully I can get the body repainted in the near future, and at least I'll know what color to use. Created an incredible amount of dust in the garage. I need to roll both cars out this spring and just clean. Also, the old VIN plate wouldn't look right when finished. Ordered a replacement from Banzai Motorworks. Primer and first coats.

Threw on a spare valve cover to drop in the motor. Things came together nicely on Saturday. Got the motor in, and the Z-Therapy carbs installed as well. Valve cover is off at powder coating. Still need a crank-pulley, as mentioned earlier, and to hook up the remainder of the peripherals. Transmission/ driveshaft installed without issue as well. This is a .40 over L24, original to the car, with a beautifully machined E31 head and some fresh 4-Screw SU's. Should've done this 3 years ago... #24,140 got a new heart the same day:

Used the Engine Bolt Kit from Datsun Spirit. Nice fresh bolts made for an easier job. Got the block painted up, using paint from Les. Cooler placement was a photogenic accident. Shifter on the Roadster Box. Two springs saddle the shifter as a return, those needed to be rebuilt. Cleaned up the transmission.

Man it's cold in that garage! Finally got the block painted, freeze plugs in, and finished up. Cleaned up the Roadster Transmission, which also needed the shifter rebuilt (parts from Rallye Enterprises). Pulled the 4-Speed from the car, and dropped in the rebuilt motor & transmission. Also managed to get the Z-Therapy carbs bolted up. The fuel hoses that came with them appear to be kinked, so I'll need to reach back to ZTherapy there. Looking forward to having this back on the road. Valve cover is finally off getting powder coated. Still need to locate a crank pulley. Keep getting bogged down in whether or not there are two different versions of the L28 pulley still available, and what their P/N's are. It's my understanding the L24 pulleys are NLA. Photos to follow later in the week.

Thanks very much. I think that leather wrap has a nice period-correct feel to it (not that I was around during that period, so take that as you will). The restoration route isn't too bad, should your leather ever wear out. The re-stained wheel really seem to do wonders to make my car's interior seem new again.

Datsun Spirit sells a full engine bolt kit (~$140), and those are new yellow-cad. I don't know if he does anything for the whole car.

Now that's a cool .pdf. Thanks Jarvo!

More details and photos on the block are here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/40249-hls30-01222-project-2.html But in short, just doing a stock rebuild. Bored out .40 to try and eliminate pits in one cylinder, and ultimately ended up putting a sleeve in it. It's about done, ready to go back in. Will update that thread when it happens. One of those wheels will go back in my '71, and the other two will likely end up on eBay, yes. Trying to find ways of funding these builds without dipping into my 401k is a constant challenge.

Break in the cold weather allowed for Stain & Polyurethane

Never seen the early one like that. Very neat.

FWIW, the photo I showed is from a bag I pulled out of a '78 280z.

Affirmative, 4 lug nuts came in a little pouch:

He's definitely helping me out quickly in a pinch. I'm hoping it will get up and go. We'll see! Maybe a month or so left until it should be rumbling for the first time.

Thanks all for the help, Capt. Obvious reached out yesterday with a set of the reinforced brackets. These are going on my '71, which should (fingers crossed) put down 200-210 hp at the wheels, so the reinforcements are likely a wise upgrade. Cheers, Bill

I've done too much work so far to cut corners and try to use 'straightened' motor mount brackets. Likely was bent when pulling the motor. Anyone have a spare set lying around? My eBay options start at $80, which seems extreme considering the number of parts cars lying around. Nearest junkyard that I know will have them is nearly 2 hours away. Should have addressed this a long while ago.

You guys have no imagination. He could do something like the boys from Top Gear:

They turned me away this morning. Partly because they feared abrasive stuck behind the baffle from blasting would damage the motor (a valid concern), but also because that bead of material that runs along the baffle edge would melt in their ovens. Told me to come back once I had the baffle removed.

I'm looking to get a couple of Series-1 Valve Covers powdered coated, but the internal baffle is riveted in. Has anyone removed that baffle before? Am I alright to pop those out, so long as I re-rivet when finished? I'm nervous to remove that baffle without learning whether its been done, and couldn't find anything. Most other posts allude to those being screws, but I suppose those are later-model Valve Covers.

What color and finish was this valve cover supposed to be originally? Is it a satin gray, or a wrinkle gray/green? Is there a color-code anywhere for it? Thanks in advance,

I've never seen exhaust exit in front of the rear wheels like that on one of these cars. If that's what that is.