mjr45

Mad, didn't check timing at 3K, the engine was warm, the idle had to be adjusted a couple of times to get it right and the vacuum gauge will help tell you at which point the engine @idle is making the best vacuum and thus running well. You can attach a vacuum gauge and by moving the dizzy, make the vacuum go up or down, its a very old way of checking the engine. Mike

OK folks, riddle me this, I did as Zed suggested and lined up the oil pump shaft so that the reluctor teeth in the dizzy were aligned and with #1 at top dead center, the alignment mark on the crank at zero. Stared it up, adjusted timing to 10° (with a light and vacuum gauge) adjusted the idle and thought OK all set, idling nice and smooth sounds great. NOT, took it out for short spin and sputtered and bucked anywhere above 3500 RPM, came back, re-adjusted the timing to 0°, took it out ran great with lost of zip right up to 4500 RPM and then the same thing. WTH?? Can't do anymore work today, its snowing AGAIN and even with my shop heaters going full bore can get to about 30°.

Zed, that was my next try in the process. It looks like the dizzy is just about 1/2 tooth off, so taking your advice, I'll make anothet attempt tomorrow, after 3 hours of pulling the pump and dizzy, I just gave up. Thanks for the help. Mike

Zed, its a ZX dizzy with the ZX mounting base. I tried moving the #1 to one hole on each side of the correct spot and couldn't get it to run, well it tried to start once but wouldn't stay running, so I'm thinking it all has to do with the oil pump spindle being off just enough to cause the issue. Mike

FastWoman, now that I've done this job 5 or 6 times it gets easier each time.

I've been having some problems getting my timing right as I'm sure some of you know from my numerous threads on this issue.. The engine is out of a 79ZX and timing should be 10°. After setting up #1 to TDC with the crank timing mark at 0 and the oil pump key as shown in several pics and the FSM at 11:25, the timing is about 40° and won't retard any further. It appears to me that I will have to change the oil pump shaft to about 12:30 in order to get to the correct timing. The cam and crank timing marks have been checked several times and are correct. I removed the dizzy set screw to move the dizzy CCW to get to 10° and its about 3/8" from the lockdown point of dizzy, so I'm thinking to move the oil pump about 3-5 teeth CCW to try and get close. Anybody had issues like this?

I just put a set of 16X8 rims with +0 offset and 205X55X16 tires on stock suspension with no issues, I've been told by my tire guy that you can actually use up to +20 offset, but I'm not real sure I'd try that setup. Just my 2¢. Mike

I just put a set of 16X8 rims with +0 offset and 205X55X16 tires on stock suspension with no issues, I've been told by my tire guy that you can actually use up to +20 offset, but I'm not real sure I'd try that setup. Just my 2¢. Mike

Zed and Mark, I went and pulled the oil pump to put the oil pump spindle in the correct 11:25 position, I did this after I rechecked valve clearances, checked compression (ranged 118 to 130) with #3 being the lowest, check all the lines and hoses and made sure they were all tight, put the dizzy back in place, and plug wires, turned the key and it burped and banged and wouldn't run, went back and doubled checked and sure enough, had the plug wires on 180° off, changed that and she fired right up, messed with the timing and took it out for a short run, went to 6000 RPM, no stumble no backfires, no nothing, no high idle on decel, no nothing. Somehow my timing marks got either wiped off or something, so I don't really know what degree the timing is set(I'll figure that out later), it runs very very well right now, smooth revving all the way up. Thanks for all the help. I'll be keeping my eye on the ignition module as I've read in several places about it getting a bit wonky and hope for the best in the meantime. Thanks again.

Zed, all the hose PCV etc. are all new < 12 mos. old, but that's a good idea for me to go and check them over again. I re-calibrated the AFM(per Atlantic Z), its been driven after that with no issues other than it still runs very rich so I'm not sure about the A/F mix being changed, I'll also check the vacuum again, it is usually low per the specs(steady at 13), but I also live at 9000' so when adjusted for altitude it is right on, as far as I understand vacuum readings.

Zed, will do, the problem was not really immediate, but showed up after about 7-12 miles of driving. The valves were adjusted cold then hot, they had been adjusted cold several months ago and this time there only only a couple that were off by 1-3 thousandth's with both the cold and hot adjust. I'll check to make sure there is nothing hanging and then take another look at the valve adjustment(cold) and go from there. Thanks. Captain, no it hasn't been checked at full advance, but I'll get to it. Mike

OK I've rechecked the timing and its still at 7-8°, which is not perfect I know, so why is it suddenly missing and stumbling >3500RPM and why is it backfiring on deceleration having nothing more than a minor valve adjustment? Prior to this it would stumble at about 4800RPM and no backfiring. Today I'm going to put the engine at TDC and check exactly where the dizzy is at #1 and go from there.

No you're right I probably wouldn't cut any holes in any panels, but might look for a panel from a 77 or 78.

Zed, right now I'm gonna sit down and cool off until Monday then I'll be checking with the light before I do much of anything else. Its just very irritating to be so close to a great running car and not be able to get there. Oh well, I'll just what turns up.

The dizzy is a off a 79 and to be honest I checked it over but didn't really get into the guts of it. I sorta suspect the vacuum advance diaphragm is not in great shape, but I'm not sure if that would account for the problem, although it might. Mark, I checked the timing marks at TDC and had to remark the crank pulley, but I also think the timing was off by maybe 1 tooth, but the last time I redid the oil pump and dizzy I couldn't quite get it to line up, after trying 1 tooth in each direction, its almost like its off by 1/2 a tooth.

I've been thru this a bunch of times on this forum but here goes again. The engine was running good with a little stumble above 4500, timing was at 7-8 degrees and I couldn't get it to advance any further so I left it. I did a minor valve adjust cold then hot with only some very minor adjustments needed to some of the valves both hot and cold. Today, engine runs like shyte, stumbles above 3500 rpm and backfires on decel and the BCDD is now hanging up holding the idle at 1200 rpm and drops if you tap the accelerator. WTF is going on? This all sounds like timing to me, but need some other input. Timing has not been checked after valve adjust, was done just prior to the adjust. The crank pulley was rebuilt by the guy up in Oregon(got CRS syndrome right now). Thanks :mad: Mike

On my 75 there is no hole in the kick panel, but I'd be glad to put one in when I get my HellFire.

Nice car, I love the Hurricane wheels, had them on my 1st Z, a 76 280. Read the Waking the sleeping beast thread, its well worth you time and will save you some headaches. I'd also suggest you some the EFI threads so you know what you're dealing with. Keep us informed.

Nicely done, you did right.

How about ZZoomTune for your Helltune. I know almost sounds Mazda-ish.

I think I've figured out how to do this with stuff from McMaster-Carr and for $75 I'll have a mechanical gauge in the engine bay about 3" from the block with the standard sender connected to the end going to the cockpit. Thanks for all the help. Mike

Site, its the smaller one with a single electrical connection. Zed, thanks for the info. granny, I don't think I have the skill set to do that, I was told that when it comes to soldering, I make a good welder. Ill probably try to get a BSPT to NPT adapter and run some plumbing to put mechanical gauge close to the engine and then use another adapter to hook up the cockpit gauge. That way I'll know "real" pressure and still have a cockpit gauge for the "looks." Thanks

Thanx Zed, I've considered just putting in a mechanical gauge somewhere up front, but I kinda like a cockpit gauge just for the esthetics of it. British Standard huh, that should be fun to find!

I have a 79 5 speed that needs a rebuild(won't go into 5th) I'd be will to let someone have for the shipping cost, also has no speedo gear.

Have a question re: oil pressure. I've put 2 new oil pressure senders on my 75 280 and still have a really low reading on the gauge. I replaced the electrical connector to the sender and I am sure the rest of the wire is intact. I know that oil is circulating well up into the head(don't ask), but the gauge reads low. I know that some of these old gauges aren't real accurate, so just curious if I should be real concerned about this issue? Thanks Mike