Mike

If you're the original owner and it has only 69k miles.. Why are you selling it? If you can keep it - please do. Or at least sell it to someone who will appreciate a nice rig like this. For those of us who know these cars well, can you look up numbers such as the VIN and engine numbers? The VIN is on the dashboard toward the drivers side. And, the engine information is on the right strut tower inside the engine compartment. You should see a little plaque. -- Mike

Glad to hear that it worked out. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

If you're stepping on the gas and it runs slowly (lugging down?) then it's probably somewhere in the fuel system. Try different settings with your carbs. Keep in mind that not all SU's are the same. Older ones are more sloppy and need more TLC and newer (rebuilt) ones are closer to spec. Just because someone says, "back the mixture screw out 3 turns," ... doesn't mean that your SU's will run correctly at that same measurement. A lean mixture will seem to run fine in the garage, but will sputter with a load (driving). Rich mixtures will sputter, smoke, and possibly blow fuel out the sides. Take your air cleaner off and keep it off until you get a "feel" for the SU adjustment process. Adjusting dual SU's isn't easy. But, doing it correctly can certainly be considered an art-form. Practice with lots of different settings. Always start too lean or not-enough fuel/air. Then, work your way up. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Whoa!! Both needles should be the same. I'm suspicious about those needles. If you want a good resource for needles (and someone who knows what they are talking about) then call Les or Dennis at Classicdatsun. http://classicdatsun.com [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored. [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 08-10-2000).]

Jon, I was in the same boat quite awhile ago. But, I made the decision to purchase a rebuilt master-vac from Motorsport Auto. They did a decent job (although they sent me the wrong push rod). I ended up repainting it. But, the unit itself worked great. The master vac isn't a very easy task to rebuild. It includes a fairly large spring under stress. If you aren't careful, you could release the spring and damage anything in its path. I decided against it because I didn't have the tools or the nerve to take it apart. If I did it wrong... I might be w/out brakes someday. Is that something you really want to chance? I didn't. Anyway, if you have the tools/patience/strength to take it apart and replace all of the components.. so be it. Otherwise, leave it modular and get a new/rebuilt one. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

If it's a 5-speed then I'd leave it in the car and worry about something else. The 5-speed is a nice conversion (truck tranny or not). I don't have the specific details about the tranny handy, but I can bet that the 5th gear is overdrive. Since it's a truck tranny... you'll have to shift a little sooner in the lower gears. But, you're probably used to that by now. Anyway, it sounds like no harm has been done. If you want to swap out the tranny for a more genuine article... it's definately possible. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Jeff, I have also done this installation on my '71 240z because it was the only transmission available at the time. The truck and car transmissions (at the time) were very similar. This was a common swap. The truck transmission will give you lower gearing in 1-3, but the 4th gear ratio is 1-to-1 (same as the stock z transmission). I did notice, however, that my shifter was located closer to the dash. This required some modification to sheet metal around the shifter. It won't hurt a thing. However, you might want to see if you can get your hands on a 5-speed. Or, if you're doing a genuine restoration... you'll need to get a 4-speed. [m]

Thanks for the great feedback!!! We moderators like to hear it. [m]

Jon, You might want to try this. Use some carb cleaner and spray it near all of your hoses, fittings, and other various areas of concern. Do this while the engine is running. When you hit an area with a leak, you will notice that the engine will idle faster. I learned this trick from a neighbor while helping him work on the same problem. Sometimes the culprit can be a loose hose. Personally, I like to put hose clamps on the ends of my vacuum tubing. This helps eliminate any kind of slippage. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

http://www.4unique.com/battery/battery_products.htm

After all the work I've put into repairing the rusty area under the battery tray... I will *NEVER* replace a battery with the water/acid type again. The gel batteries are cool because they never leak and you can mount them in any direction. A few types are available. You've probably seen the Optima at various locations. Plan on spending at least $100. http://www.4unique.com/battery/battery_products.htm > -----Original Message----- > From: Chris Robson [mailto:robsonc@home.com] > Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 6:28 PM > To: JFShamus117@aol.com; 240z-club@peak.org > Subject: RE: <240z-club> electrical woes > > > -- Group Message from "Chris Robson" <robsonc@home.com> -- > > Well, My suggestion first is to pull the alternator, it may > be on the fritz, > and burning up the battery. Just take it to any auto parts > store, they > should be able to test it for free. Next if that checks > out, also check > all the battery connections, those may have a short somewhere, but my > feeling is that won't be the problem. The other thing to > check is the > voltage regulator, it is right next to the alternator and is > mounted on the > wheel well. I don't know how you would go about checking one > of these, > (maybe there is how-to out there). But that could also be > putting bad power > into the battery causing it to crack. > > As for batteries, maybe check out a solid battery as oppose > to a lead-acid. > They don't have acid in them, and only cost on average $20 > bucks more then a > good lead-acid. > > -- Chris > > '72 240 ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

This was posted in the Email list: -- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- At 6:28 PM -0700 5/27/2000, Chris Robson wrote: >Well, My suggestion first is to pull the alternator, it may be on the fritz, >and burning up the battery. Just take it to any auto parts store, they >should be able to test it for free. Next if that checks out, also check >all the battery connections, those may have a short somewhere, but my >feeling is that won't be the problem. The other thing to check is the >voltage regulator, it is right next to the alternator and is mounted on the >wheel well. I don't know how you would go about checking one of these, >(maybe there is how-to out there). But that could also be putting bad power >into the battery causing it to crack. Hi Jim / Chris (everyone): If you have a good mechanic - or if you have a good Automotive Battery Shop in your area - just take the car in and ask them to check the entire charging system. (with the right equipment it shouldn't take them more than a few minutes). They will check to see what the output is from the Alternator, then from the regulator, and what the battery is accepting. They will also put a load on the battery to see what it is putting out under load. At that point you should have a good idea of what and where the problem is. Sounds like you are over-charging the battery, if a new battery is outgasing/sulfating (sp?) ie. boiling over;-)... As has been mentioned before on this list - seems that whenever a battery goes bad - it takes the regulator with it - and overloads the Alternator.. So don't be supprised if you wind up replacing all three at the same time.. (or one right after the other).. BTW - yes you want to neutralize the acid by useing Baking Soda and water - but be sure to clean the Baking Soda with plenty of clear/clean water - remember that Baking Soda is salt... >As for batteries, maybe check out a solid battery as oppose to a lead-acid. >They don't have acid in them, and only cost on average $20 bucks more then a >good lead-acid. Chris - I've never heard of a "solid" battary. Can you give me some more information on this? (like Brand Name or Manufacture). I have had the Jell Filled Batteries, but they have a jell that contains the acid and holds it aginist the lead plates. Then too they seem to be alot more than $20.00 more than the standard Water/acid/lead type.. Last I looked they were running close to $95.00 to $115.00 where a standard battery was in the $45.00 to $55.00 range... good luck, Carl >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-240z-club@peak.org [maimailto:Owner-240z-club@peak.org]On >Behalf Of JFShamus117@aol.com >Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 5:11 PM >To: 240z-club@peak.org >Subject: <240z-club> electrical woes > > >-- Group Message from JFShamus117@aol.com -- > >Gentleman, > My first post so I hope I do this right > It seems one of us is always having electrical problems and now its >my turn.....I own a 5/71 prod. rust free, no mods, 240 with 46k. I was >driving home from a Z club picnic the other day when my voltmeter jumped >hard >to the right. The meter itself has been stable the three months that I have >owned the car. Lights dim a little when I stop at traffic lights but other >than that all electrical components are running including the annoying door >buzzer but with the exception of the clock (imagine that). All fuses look >good but couldn't help but notice the high pitched scream coming from the >engine bay when I accelerated. Amp gauge appeared to be normal at idle but >as soon as I got on it the above symptoms occurred. Left in the garage for >the week and decided to take a halfhearted look at it. I was ticked off to >find battery acid eating away at my paint. A friend suggested baking soda >to >neutralize the acid and a thorough cleaning. When I first picked up the car >I noticed a little battery acid leak and replaced it immediately, two months >later I have the same problem. The only other symptom the car produces now >is an intermittent signal noise when turn signal is used (the signal works >but the sound emanating from the flasher mechanism is variable. So tomorrow >I finally break down and purchase a multi-meter and learn how to use one >along with a mechanical voltage regulator. Might be nice considering I have >2z's (71,86T) a restoration project (series 1) and a parts car (73) Where do >I start???? Your help is appreciated and many thanks in advance... > Signed > Electrical Amateur Jim Field >

No, it won't harm anything to bypass the water flow to the carbs. However, they were put there to help warm the manifold. You may experience a decrease in responsiveness when they are cold. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Timberwolf, you're talking about a pretty standard conversion. There are kits available to do this. You will need a special manifold that connects to your intake ports on the block. I think someone has a 4-barrel conversion kit for sale in the FOR_SALE forum. Check that one out. You will need to modify linkage and a few other items to make it work correctly. But, when it's all connected I understand that it's a very reliable system. That's all I know. Someone else will more than likely respond to you - just give it a few days. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Sorry you took that wrong. I think HE was probably being sarcastic. We love to take questions about the Z and welcome anything you might have to ask. Moderator Mike ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Niiiiiice. But, hey. Yours is TITANIUM!! ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Nice story (very well put together)! Too bad about the car. I'm sure you'll come up with something to make her look great again. I'm happy to see that the Z was able to keep up with the Viper. Now, that's a hell of a story. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Looking for another project? I've got a fairly decent '68 Datsun 2000 Convertible that I've just sunk $3,500 into. I bought the Roadster for $2,500 and put this money into it. So, there's quite a bit of mechanical work that I've already done. Let me know if you're interested at all and I can go over what I've done. As a matter of fact, I put an ad in this forum with an outline. Click back and scroll down until you see it. Anyway, I'd be willing to trade. I also have a Zcar that I'm restoring and I'm craving to own another Z to drive until she's done. [m] [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 05-15-2000).]

Oh wow, that certainly *is* a problem! This sounds like a job for your Datsun mechanic. However, I would check a few things first: 1) Replace ALL of your fuses. 2) Check to make sure the pump is working by running a power lead from your battery to it. 3) Pull open the headlamp SWITCH assembly and lubricate it with WD-40. This will clean the electronics and verify that it's mechanically working. 4) Trace your wires and make sure that you don't have any exposed wiring touching each other. Your headlamp wiring might be crossing with the fuel-pump causing it to turn on. Let us know how it goes. [m] ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored. [This message has been edited by Mike (edited 05-02-2000).]

-- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> -- Dear Group: >-- Group Message from "Pete Paraska" <pparaska@tidalwave.net> -- >I don't have handy any numbers on what the amount or rate of >conversion of this heat is for different driving conditions, >but it's not inconsequential. Pete hit the nail on the head! The energy generation from shocks is not inconsequential. As a Mechanic, I always put a little oil in the strut housing when replacing inserts. Now I find that many Auto manufacturers are designing and making Hybrid cars that are gas and electric. They gain efficiency by recouping wasted energy. One of the prime waist sources is the cars kinetic energy which is converted into brake heat every time you stop. On the hybrids, when you hit the brake pedal, a generator is linked to the drive line which drags the car down while producing electricity to charge a battery pack. One of the biggest secondary sources of wasted energy is shock absorber dampening. The makers of Hybrids are designing shocks that are like linear motors which get their dampening from electro magnetic repulsion while generating electricity for the batteries. There is a significant amount of energy coming from these shock and good heat dissipation will extend seal life. Richard Schulze -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

> How about every-day drivers? Or, weekend excursions along > the coastal highways? If I can't heat these things up at an autox or a track like Buttonwillow then I don't think a street driver can do it, unless they are driving fast over the pot-holed roads of Detroit. You would need a lot of low frequency, large travel or high frequency, short travel inputs to start generating heat. You really aren't much of that on the street unless the road are really bumpy. Also, have you driven Pacific Coast Highway lately? You'll spend most of your time going < 25mph behind a Mini-Winnie watching two brats smear food on the back window while Dad drifts into oncoming traffic at each corner. Now, I WOULD put some oil in there to avoid the corrosion issues mentioned in a previous post. ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

-- Group Message from Rob Harville <RobH@Insynq.com> -- I would think shock overheating would be much more of an issue in off-road racing like the Baja series. They have MUCH more suspension travel and at high speeds. The tire heating isn't as much of an issue because of the loose "track" surface. This is why they run remote-reservoir shocks with a very high oil capacity w/ coolers on the reservoirs. I've never heard of this being an issue with NASCAR, CART or INDY. Even with autox, there just isn't enough constant full-travel articulation.

> Any racers here want to chime in? OK, chiming in... > I wouldn't bet that air alone > is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut > cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The > amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is > minimal for conduction heat transfer. FYI... my Tokico Illuminas are in the struts dry. Purely a maintenance, cleanliness issue. Shocks heating up and loosing effectiveness is not really an issue in autox because you have time between runs for everything to cool down. Tire overheating will occur way before you have any issues with the shocks. At the MSA autox last Saturday I did 6 back-to-back 46 second runs and greasy tires ended my fun, not the shocks getting hot. Also, I've run 20 and 30 minute track sessions at Buttonwillow and WSR and hot shocks were never a concern. But, Peter is right from a theoretical point of view and if I was building a rally 240Z I would definately do everything I could to cool the shocks. ---------- John Coffey johncof@veriomail.com

-- Group Message from "Pete Paraska" <pparaska@tidalwave.net> -- Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote: >Is this really a concern if you purchase a high-end strut >cartridge? I figure that their engineering methods would >lessen this possiblity. Strut cartridges and shocks convert mechanical energy to heat. The amount of heat generated is proportional to the damping. Damping is the mechanical energy involved and has to do with the force (related to the Illumina's setting), velocity and translation of the two ends of the "damper". I don't have handy any numbers on what the amount or rate of conversion of this heat is for different driving conditions, but it's not inconsequential. I wouldn't bet that air alone is enough to convect the heat away quick enough from the strut cartridge body to the strut tube during spirited driving. The amount of connection between the strut tube and cartridge is minimal for conduction heat transfer. Any racers here want to chime in? -------------------------------------------------------------- ©The Internet 240z-Club - Our Web Site: http://www.240z.org Our Bulletin Board: http://www.240z.org/forums.htm Send your Email messages to: mailto:240z-club@peak.org --------------------------------------------------------------

Dampening oil added to strut housing between cartridge and housing: I recently had to change the shocks in my Z, and the previous owner had changed the shocks about 3-5 years before, and he had not put any oil in the shaft the strut cartridge had gone in. The Cartridge over time had fused to the strut most likely do to excessive heat, and a lack of lubrication. As a result, this made this out to be a very unpleasant experience for me after being in there for a while the cartridge was stuck in the shaft to where it was VERY VERY difficult to come out. In fact one of the four never came out.. even after the strut had been heated with a torch (which was necessary on the others to remove them) it never came out... I was really stuck because the original strut was now damaged in trying to remove this cartridge, and where was I going to get another one when I was getting this work done with a friend, out of town, on the weekend?? I sooooooo lucked out that the Nissan dealer had an original brand new strut tower that you could no longer order sitting on the shelf because it was ordered 5 years before, and was never picked up. This was the original style with a non cartridge style shock already in it, but since I was using the same Tokico shock on the other 4, just a cartridge version it didn't matter.. I can just put in a cartridge style in there next time it needs to be changed. In short.. I really recommend lubeing the strut cartridges >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< On 5/1/00, 6:31:15 PM, Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> wrote regarding RE: <240z-club> Rear Struts: > -- Group Message from Mike Gholson <mtg@mgdesign.net> -- > It is my understanding that you shouldn't need to add any > oil with MODERN strut cartridges. > The manual recommends it because the older struts depended > on the oil for heat dissipation and lubrication of the shaft. > Again, this is MY understanding. I could be totally off. > But, I didn't add any oil to my new Tokico Illumina's because > of this advice. > [m] > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Panos A. Rontos [maimailto:Prontos@gte.net] > > Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 11:02 AM > > To: 240z internet club > > Subject: <240z-club> Rear Struts > > > > > > -- Group Message from "Panos A. Rontos" <prontos@gte.net> -- > > > > I know that this has been covered; however, my computer has > > gone through at > > least one rebuild since then and I have lost the message. The Datsun > > service manual states I should pour 400cc of geniune Nissan > > strut oil or > > equalivant into the case for cooling. Any suggestions as to > > what to use? > --------------------------------------------------------------