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This probably has nothing to with your issue but FWIW...I spent a week trying to figure out why my oil pressure guage wasnt working and it turned out to be a bad tachometer. My tachometer wasnt working properly either. My oil pressure guage was completely dead so it was a little differnt than your situation. My car is a 71 too. Brian

I learned that a bad tachometer makes the car run like crap and makes some of the guages not work. Spent a while tracing wires, looking for a bad ground, etc. Swapped out tach and now have good oil pressure and cars idleing at 1100 rpm. Not bad for straight off one engine and onto another. Brian

The hardest part for me was getting the inner sleeve out of the outer rear control arms. I heated them until they were purple with oxy/acetylene torch, cut them down the middle with hacksaw, and still had to beat and peel them out. Had 1 person heating while the other was pulling and beating on it. Have fun with it...always fun seeing it go back together. Brian

Almost ready to put engine in. Need to find a gasket for transmission. The PO took the rear extension off for some reason and gasket is torn. All the gears seem to work fine and engage...at least for now with no power going through it. Hope to get gasket this week, bolt transmission up, and put everything in. We'll see. Brian

Spray some silcone spray or soap on it. Get one part started with small dull screw driver then push in and turn. Thats how I did it. Brian

I'll ask...how? Cant be as bad as my 2 year project getting totaled by my brother a week before completion. But, if you dont want to say I understand... Brian

Yesterday I got the dash and wiring harness back in. Ive got one small leak from a brake line at the master cylinder I need to fix. I noticed the front clip is bent a little bit but dont think it will be noticable when put back together. The radiator still fits ok, so I will have to leave it for now. The wiring part isnt as bad as people think. Most of the plugs are self explanatory and the rest is fairly easy to see where they went. My wires were all labeled but most big plugs probably didnt need to be. Im getting ready to paint the block and put everything back on it so I can put it back in. Hopefully that will be done in next couple weeks or so. Brian

Thanks for the opinions. I was trying to avoid having another hard line that was unnecessary routed through engine bay. As long as it wont hurt anything, I think Im gonna dead end it where it is. Plus I really dont want to buy another piece of line or add to it at this point. I hope to get the suspension and wheels back on it this weekend.

Thats is what Im talking about. just figured it would be one less thing in engine bay. Dont remember if the k&n's have fitting for the vent hose(triple webers). If so I guess I could do that, less chance of trash getting in it and clogging it up i guess.

yep the one thats curved down a little in center of firewall. Used to go to air cleaner I think but im not planning on hooking it up to triples. But I am planning on leaving it open.

I think Im gonna just turn the vent hose from rear of car down right at firewall. Maybe I can find some kind of cap that will still let it breath. Anyone see a problem with doing this? I'd rather know now than later. Brian

Cool. Think Im going to install what I have and see how it works out. I thought my 73 was sitting pretty damn low. This is the suspension from that car, so it explains alot. If I have problems I guess I can always buy stronger springs. Had the tech tips open today working on the car. Thanks

Thanks Blue. Wonder if Im going to have any issues running these springs with new kyb gas struts?

Anyone know the height of stock springs off the strut housings. Mine are about 11 inches in back and maybe 12 inches in front. Does this sound to be stock? Here's a crappy cell phone pic of the rear spring. Brian

cool. I hope this works out ok. I really dont want to have my suspension off again for a while. My sway bars are 7/8 inches which I dont think are stock...are they? And the car had the aluminim ball and socket on tension rod...so maybe alot of suspension work had been done to it before I got it. Bad thing is, it was my father in laws car but he cant remember what he had done to it. Steve, I'll let you know if I need springs..hopefully not though. Brian

Im geting ready to replace struts on my 240 and wonder if my springs are worn out. Everyone talks about spring compressors but I can easily get my springs off without a compressor. I just hold a little pressure on spring and have someone take the nut off and thats it. Does this indicate worn out springs or is this normal? Also when the car is on jackstands and the suspension is on, the spring can be turn to seat it properly in strut housing. Im putting KYB struts on. Brian

Those wheels look cool as hell. Brian

If it doesnt work out...I have a couple sets. Mine would need to be cleaned up and gone through. Brian

Is the brake waring switch the same between 71 and 73? It appears to be the same.

Thanks blue. I see it there. Just ordered adjustable one from jegs for 40 bucks. Guess I can mount it there or in the front somewhere. Might be easier to get to in the front. Picture helps and I appreciate it. Brian

Thanks. Looked again tonight and couldnt find valve so I guess I'll order the adjustable one from msa.

Anyone have a picture of the proportioning valve on a (10\70)71 240? I believe its different than the 73 and mounts in back. If someone has picture of the valve and/or picture of how the hard lines are routed to it, it would be very helpful. Also..the brake warning switch is still mounted on the driver side of engine compartment right? Thanks. Brian

Simple one for you..nails in wall to hang all your wrenches on. Beats the hell out of digging through tool box.

gotta love ospho and others alike.

Gotta make do with what I have. Much easier to weld sitting versus laying down. Im gonna try wet sanding the wrecked z for practice and then do this one. Hope to start transfering suspension, brake lines, etc from one to other soon.