Ptero

Not grooved pavement. Our streets up here tend to be total sh*t from frost so there will be filled in cracks here and there which may follow the street.

The tracking of my car seems to be a bit odd while under heavy acceleration or highway speeds. Hitting a bump or if the tire follows a crack in the road, it seems the front end will follow the road while the rear may wiggle a bit and then fall into place. It's like the car is flexing in the middle. I know that the bushings for the sway bars need to replaced but am unsure how big of a difference the new ones would make. Would this "wiggle" be due to potential weak frame rails? Bushings? It's hard to explain in text how it feels while driving. Car: '73 240z

While driving my 240z today I shifted into 5th gear by accident. The funny thing is I bought the car thinking it was a 4 speed and have driving it like that for the last 4 months. You can't even imagine my surprise when I found out the car has a 5spd.

Looks great!

Wow that MSA kit looks amazing! Why does the picture of their kit on the website look like such garbage compared to yours?

I put my new license plate on, .

Here is another discussion about it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42377-What-type-of-oil-fluid-do-you-put-in-the-strut-cartridge&highlight=

Too bad it's not right hand drive for that to work out. YAAABAAADAAABAAAADOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

I acquired a '71 240z as a parts car. Jacked it up to replace the wheels for transporting it and the floor pan on the pasenger side fell out, . Gravity pulled the floor pan off.

If I take off the one half shaft, is it safe to limp home with just the one? (only a few blocks)

I replaced the outer ujoint on the half shaft of my '73 z about a month and a half ago. Today it totally let loose. I can't help but think I did something wrong but I just don't know what. The ujoint was pressed in by a local machine shop and I'm unsure if I should bring it back there. It looks as though 3 of the 4 "plugs" that hold the ujoint in are gone. I found one sitting on the control arm and part of it is bust off. (picture below) Any insight/thoughts on what may have gone wrong would be appreciated so I don't make the same mistake twice. Sorry for the poor photo/video. Couldn't really see anything as it was dark and raining. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc8uT_S6vG4

Anybody?

No, sorry Philbar. The problems were fixed so I didn't bother digging further for the yellow/black wires.

That's got to be one of the most annoying fixes I've ever attempting. Laying with my back on the seat and my head by the pedals trying to turn the pushrod with almost no room to move my hand. With that said..... this worked PERFECTLY!!!! I raised the pedal from about 6" up to 8" (which is still short of what it should be) and it made a world of a difference. Goes into reverse/1st when sitting at a standstill whether the car is on or off. Gear changes are a lot smoother as well. There was only one nut holding it tight so it may loosen itself in the future but at least I know how to fix it next time even if it is a PITA.

I must be searching the wrong thing because I didn't find an answer. What is the 7 digit number on the top of the transmission? I know there are different shapes and different shif levers which differentiate the transmissions but does the number on top have any bearing?

When going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th, no issues with shifting. If I come to a stand still and try to go into reverse, it will only grind. If I turn off the car and try to go into reverse, no problem. If I'm in reverse and want to go into 1st I have the same issue, gotta turn off the car to change the gear. I can feel that the clutch engages pretty close to the floor so I was thinking that it's not fully engaging due to the height of the pedal and this is possibly causing my issues with going into reverse. When I checked the locknut on the pushrod the other day, the locknut was completely loose and could be turned by hand.

I've only owned the car for a short while and the shifting has never been great. Mostly just trying to get into reverse or from reverse into first. If the car is turned off, the gear changes are no problem.

I'll have to get in there again and see what I can do. I wasn't sure if it was a turning motion to make the pushrod longer or a pulling motion.

The lock nut on the push rod is on the opposite side of the pedal which is not holding the pedal from going the other way. Wow that sentence makes no sense. Gotta find a diagram.

I'm looking to adjust the height of my clutch pedal as it's sitting too low. FSM shows that it should be over 8 inches from the floor/firewall but it's only about 6 inches. I can't seem to get the pedal any higher than it currently is even though there is plenty of room between the pedal arm and the bump stop at the top. Does anyone know how to adjust the height of it?

Picked up 2 sets from the junk yard for a total of $20. I can't believe how easy this was to do and how well it turned out.

I think I've got a couple of extra tachs with the parts that came with the car. I'll check if they are 3 or 4 wire. Is there any way to test them without setting up another ignition system?

Not too sure if it worked before as I'm the new owner and don't know the history of the electronic ignition change.

Replaced the weather stripping on both doors with Kia Sportage replacements found at a wrecker. Worked like a charm.

A few details on the car. 1973 240z /w electronic ignition. Using ignition module E12-80. Exactly as the title says. When starting the car the tach will bounce a bit but then drops back down to zero once the car has started. When driving the tach stays at zero. Today the tach slowly crawled up to 8k and stayed there until I turned the car off. I did however read that this happens when it's hot outside and today was one of those days. So that one makes sense (to an extent). I searched but didn't find another issue like this one. Is my tach fubar'd or do I still have a hope of getting this thing working? What I found on the tach going up due to hot weather.