steve91tt

Sounds great! I'll send you a PM.

Great minds think alike. On tear down #3 I used some 2000 grit paper to very lightly eliminate any tiny rough spots that I could feel in both the dome and the slide. They were already very smooth (fresh Z Therapy rebuilds) and now they are perfectly smooth to my hand.

Well, it's not ice.:disappoin The car has run flawlessly for the past 100 miles until I went for a long drive this afternoon. Coming off of the freeway the car stalled as soon as I pushed in the clutch. I was able to get it restarted easily and limped it home (stalling at every light!). At home I pulled off the air cleaner and sure enough the front slide was stuck half way up. I loosened the dome screws and the float dropped. The car now runs normally. The air temperature was in the 70's and humidity < 40%. The front slide is definitely sticking intermittently. I have adjusted and cleaned it a half a dozen times. Any suggestions?

I burned about a 1/4 of a tank of gas after work running errands. The car ran great. Back to normal. I guess I need to figure out how to hook up the summer/winter flapper thingy. Sounds like a good holiday project!

Yep, doesn't get much colder. Wetter...that's another story.

Very interesting. I never considered the possibility of ice up. The humidity is currently 74% and the temperature is 48°F. The summer/winter flap thingy is not currently hooked up to the manifold. I never really thought that it would qualify as winter weather here on the gulf coast.

I spoke to Z Therapy and Rebbelo about the needles and they both agree that the ones I have (SM?) should be fine for this engine. I cleaned the needles, slides, domes and carb bodies but dirty nozzles is not something that I have considered. Good suggestion.

I use the choke to keep it running when it's acting up but I don't think it's a mixture thing as much as a way to keep the RPM up. The plugs are new and a nice grey brown across all 6 cylinders. I think it may be temperature related. It started to get cold here in Texas about the same time that the trouble started. We had frost this morning and the car ran really badly all the way to work. It stalled every time I took my foot off of the gas (without choke). However, as soon as I pulled into the parking lot it started running normally. I experience the similar when I work on it in the garage. It usually runs great with the hood up and I'm working on it. When it fails it usually does so during a test drive.

Same needles. The car runs very strong 90% of the time and very badly 10% of the time. When it is running badly the issue is at idle or light throttle. I would have thought that if the needles were the issue then the problem would occur consistently and at higher throttle. No?

I have a pair of Z Therapy carbs on my 240Z. These carbs worked perfectly until I took them off to rebuild my engine (2.4l to 3.0l, same head). Since I reinstalled them on the new engine the float on the front carb seems to be sticking. I followed the cleaning and alignment procedure in the Z Therapy DVD 3 times over and still the same result. The carbs are clean inside and out and seem to align fine in the garage. The slides move up and down and return to the base of the carbs with a nice mechanical clank. Both slides fall at the same rate and the carbs are synced at both idle and 3000 RPM. The car runs great 90% of the time. Strong idle, excellent throttle response, good power etc. However, once in a while the idle goes lumpy or sometimes the car dies. When this happens I can take off the air filter move the front slide up and down a couple of times and all is back to normal. Any ideas?

I bolted them to the head without a gasket to check how much torque it took to flatten them out. I was impressed to see that the flange could be straightened so that it sat flush with the ports with much less than 8 foot pounds. Given this result I went ahead and installed them with the supplied paper gasket and some high temp RTV. I put about 50 miles on them last night and no leaks so far. I'll re-tourque the nuts tonight and let the forum know if leaks occur with time. These are Pacesetter headers sold by Rebello.

Thanks for the advice guys. Bruce, the cast iron manifold came to me warped. It's so out of wack the holes do not even line up. I took the head to a machine shop and it checked out as flat and true. Just the manifold out of wack.

My stock exhaust manifold is warped and leaking badly so I decided to upgrade to a header. The one I bought seems to have a warped flange. With a straight edge the deflection end to end is about 1/4" This is my first time installing a header. I know that some of the flange warpage can be taken up when torquing to the head but is 1/4" too much? Should I send it back? Thanks for the help.

Almost done with the hand to hand combat that was my engine/engine bay refresh. A few minor hiccups along the way but the car runs great. I installed a 3.0 Rebello short block, centerforce clutch and 10# flywheel. I left everything else stock. I've got a couple of hundred miles on the motor and still have a few loose ends to tie up but so far I am happy with the results.

I'm not familiar with the specifics of the e12-80 but I don't think you would have spark on number 1 with a bad module.

Sounds great. Is it stock other than exhaust?

Make double sure that you have the firing order right. I know that at least one of the Datsun restoration books has a misprint on the firing order. I followed the book and got the result you are describing. The FSM is your friend. You might also check that the rotter is pointing where is should when you are at TDC. If the PO replaced the oil pump and put the drive gear in 180° out of phase then you will either have to put the plug wires on 180° out of phase to match the rotter or pull the oil pump and re-time the shaft. This also happened to me.:disappoin It sounds like a bigger job than it actually is. Good luck and let us know how the new dizzy runs!

I wish I were 18 and had a project like that ahead of me. It sounds like a great learning experience and in the end you will have a fun little car!

I am in the process of reassembling my engine with a reconditioned short block (Rebello). The oil gallery plugs are missing from the front and back of the block. Replacing these plugs is covered on page 113 of "How to rebuild your Datsun&Nissan OHC Engine" Does anyone know where to order these? Are they the same as the dowel plugs that MSA sells? Here is a link... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SMEC13/10-4641 Is there a Nissan part number?

I'm in the middle of an engine bay refresh and engine rebuild myself. I hope it turns out half as nice as yours!

Arne, tridawgn...those are some serious camera skills. Beautiful shots!

Great photos guys! That 500mm is a cool lens. I don't have anything nearly that long. It must be like shooting with a telescope. I love photography and cars as well but strangely enough I don't ever seem to photograph cars.:paranoid: Mostly I take wedding photos but keep the car photos coming!

No pulp. I can't find any trace other than inside the timing cover.

That's what I thought but every one of them I called said that they would not touch it. I'll give Motor-Head a try. Thanks Imcguffin.

I have a couple of broken exhaust studs and I am looking for a reputable machine shop in Houston. Preferably south Houston but anywhere in the area would be fine. Anyone had a good experience with a machine shop locally?