tanny

Yeah, that seems like the way to go to get them even, but I know I've read somewhere that adjusting them while hot simulates actual running conditions better. But in the end it may just be nitpicking. Victor.

I'm not too sure that swearing indicates a lack of vocabulary and/or intelligence. The best, most vehement swear words seem to be derived from either pooping or humping, and where do you do most of your really deep thinking? Of course! While you're sittin' on the pot or flailing wildly in bed, or somewhere. All that intellectual stimulation and vocabulary building you get from the piles of magazines and newspapers in front of the pot. And who doesn't gain deep intellectual insights and a great appreciation for your partners' intelligence while humping madly? These are obviously profound intellectual pursuits, and out of them spring the the most apropriate and effective swear words. Thus, intuitively, swear words are an indication of extreme intelligence and sensitivity. Excellent logic. Victor.

I have read that adjusting the valves too tight will increase the likelihood of burning them because they are held open longer than they should be. Not sure where too tight begins, other than what Carl said. The one thing I haven't quite figured out is if I adjust the valves hot, once I finish the last valve and go back to double check the clearances again, some of the first valves I adjusted are too tight. This happens every time. I'm assuming as I adjust the valves, the engine is cooling and when I go back, the clearance has tightened. But this would mean that the only way to get all the valve clearances perfectly identical, I would have to rewarm the engine for each valve. Or I have to get much quicker with my adjusting procedure. What's the easy solution? Don't double check the clearances(the ostrich tecnique)? . Victor.

Sorry, I couldn't shut up yet. *&^@$#!)*^++&&%$@^&**$%$%(*_)(^&^$@$#~(*&)(*&%$!#~$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take that everybody!! Victor.:cheeky: :classic: Don't be laughin' now, this is serious excrement.

Should be able to get to the crank bolt with socket wrench and turn by hand. I am able to access mine this way, but I don't have any smog or extra belts. Can't remember the size. 22mm? Might remove spark plugs first and put in neutral to make it a little easier. Victor.

The nuts are definitely 14mm and 17mm. Both nuts loosen counterclockwise. Loosen the 17mm first. If the metric feels way too loose, see if an SAE wrench will fit any tighter. Can't understand why the new metrics wouldn't fit right though. Victor.

My clock looks good set to a perpetual 9:00. Morning is my favorite time anyway, so when I get in the z it's always morning. My son will be installing a stereo anyway, so he'll be able to get the time from that flashing neon display. Victor.

Like Bravo I would feel uneasy swearing around women, but for some reason women don't seem very hesitant to swear at me. With alot of the kids today, swearing has become almost unconscious and is not intended to offend, but some of us older farts(is fart a swear word?) are accustomed to a little less of the expletive action. Although I just used some in another post, so I'd better shut up. Victor.

I'll have to put some photos of my z in my gallery at some point here so that it can be raked over the coals. I'll wait till later this summer after it gets it's paint job and before my son thrashes it. It's nothing too special, but the three webers look nice, the dash is uncracked, minilite wheels, and the steering wheel's on the left side. Only thing that doesn't work is, you guessed it, the clock. It also has that "climbing out of a hole" look that comes from new springs on the front and old ones on the back. Kind of like a P-51 Mustang. Victor. Not sure if I should name the car. The most common thing I have called it during restoration has been "son of a b----" and "c--- sucker", but those don't seem appropriate for casual conversation.

I would bet that the arcing is being caused by deteriorated insulation. This would definitely allow the electrons to jump from the wire to ground. All wire insulation materials will deteriorate over time, although the silicone type seems to be fairly durable. I really doubt that you would get any arcing if you installed a new set of wires. BUT, I can't afford to guarantee it. Always hedge your bets. Victor.

Geez Alpha, exact same thing happened to me. Maybe it was the spitwads on the back of his shirt. Poor guy. But anyway, the obvious and I believe the only solution is to get a new set of plug and coil wires if they are all exhibiting the arcing. You probably already knew that. Victor.

I like zkid's analogy, but my lead never has broken even when twisted severely by a fat chick. I guess it wasn't in a tight enough corner. Victor.

Careful with the positive connector. I replaced the big O-ring to fix a gasoline leak, which didn't work. On closer inspection, the gasoline was leaking out of the positive connection fitting. I hammered the rivet tighter and put JB Weld around the fitting on the outside, and so far the leak is stopped. Victor.

Poor guy! You forgot to put the steering back on the correct side of the car? Does it still drive allright? Pretty precious. Victor.

Leads? Those are the little carbon sticks you put into those refillable pencils, aren't they? Lower resistance values would allow more current to flow through a circuit. Voltage = Current X Resistance, so algebraically Current = Voltage divided by Resistance, so the lower the resistance, the higher the current. I would think having lower resistance in your "leads" would be a good thing, but I think resistance is also used to suppress electromagnetic noise in your radio caused by the ignition system. Sounds like maybe there might be cracks in the insulation around your leads. There must be someone here who knows what the theory is behind arcing plug and coil wires. Victor.

At high altitude during winter there is no choice but to run the choke until the engine has had time to warm up sufficiently to keep running. 6500 feet and 15 below zero. In summer my z starts fine with no choke.(the 3 webers may be helping it out a bit) Victor.

This is an example of biasing statistics the way you want the results to be. The real reason these guy's sperm quality was down was because anyone who would have a predisposition to look for and enjoy a toll booth job is most likely a genetic failure anyway, and it follows that their sperm quality would be subpar. So the exhaust fumes actually had no effect except to give them a pleasant high at work. Victor This is tongue in cheek so don't take offense you toll booth operators out there.

I have one of these that I bought on ebay before I knew that the 73 240 one was different from the rest. Bright move. I also took a beating on it. All I know is that it's not for a 73, it still has the lower plastic surround that people cut out for their aftermarket radios, and has the controls still on it. If I remember right, the chrome is in mediocre shape. If you're interested, I can take a few pictures and send them to you and refresh my memory on it's overall condition. Victor.

If it turns out that you have the same problem, it might be good to email KYB and tell them their bung nut is not the proper specification for this application. They probably wouldn't do anything because this application i'm sure doesn't bring them in much money, but worth a try to save others the hassle. Please email me if you do have the same problem. Thanks, Victor.

I took the struts apart and found that the cartridge retaining nut that fits over the cartridge shaft and screws down into the strut tube was not seated down against the top of the cartridge, so the cartridge was slamming back and forth about 3/16 inch on every bump I hit. The retaining nut that came with the KYB cartridges would not screw down far enough to secure the cartridge, so I had to fabricate two washers(spacers) to place inside the retaining nut for each rear cartridge to take up the 3/16 inch gap. The clunking is now gone. If only the nut could have screwed in a few more turns. Interesting that the nuts that came with the front cartridges worked fine. What a hassle. Victor.

Thanks, Victor.

mikew, Yes, I adjusted the wheel from totally open to closed and still the marker wouldn't rise. The marker seems to be free of any undue friction, so I think the unisyn is working. I wonder if anyone with triples has had this problem. Thanks, Victor.

What is the actual amount of oil that goes into a flattop carb? I didn't see any specs in the manual other than type of oil(20w). Maybe I missed it somewhere. Thanks, Victor.

Just a note. I have triple webers and was unable to get the unisyn to register anything at all at idle. Has anyone else had this problem? After adjusting the mixture by ear, I used the colortune to check and was very close to optimal. Victor.

God I wish I were too "old"(36). I guess at 53 I have one foot in the grave and the other on a banana peel, and my wife just found another receipt for 240 parts. Victor.