Zed Head

Here's a link to what the injector clips look like. You can see it in your picture. They used a different style for some reason, even more difficult to remove, in the hardest spot to get to. Your right angle pick will work, or a small screwdriver. Pry the tip out, lift one side to keep it there, then pry the other side out and remove the connector. Or you can pry it out then stick a striaght pick underneath to hold it. Or get mad and just tear it off, the old plastic will shatter like glass. Replace with GM, Audi, BMW or Volvo spring-clip EV1 connectors. Mid-90's era cars used them, some still do. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3410 Here's a bulky style. The GM and BMW models are very streamlined. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3059

Is it still overheating?

Report the new pump and the 5.5 psi measurement here.

Is it still backfiring?

jalexquijano's 240Z problems 1. Engine shakes during acceleration at low RPM. Clutch is engaged, so it's not a clutch engagement problem. New differential mount had no affect. 2. Plugs foul. Smell of excess gas. Fuel pressure measured at rear carb was ~5.5 psi. (before rear carb or after rear carb? Deadheaded?). 3. Engine backfires - 4. Engine overheats - I would keep a running list of these things and post them in all of your threads. On your current request for a pressure regulator - you didn't say that you have a regulator now. If you don't have a regulator and you're seeing 5.5 psi after the carbs, then you'll need to do some plumbing work also to bypass the excess pressure as Stanley suggested. And, you didn't respond to his suggestion of an Aeromotive regulator, or a Mallory 4070LP The Mallory is set to 3-4 psi and can be adjusted over a narrow range. He made a suggestion and you just ignored it. That's why people aren't responding any more to your questions. If someone suggests something you have to at least acknowledge that you saw it. Otherwise, what's the point of responding to jalexquijano's questions. He'll just ignore the response. Good luck. http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-4070LP.pdf

" cylinder pressure readings, cam timing pictures, pictures of the cam lobes, all of that, " Everything that you know. The back and forth shaking could be the way the engine runs, or it could be from engaging the clutch. Which is it? I know you've been over all of this before, but it's your car so you need to keep the facts organized. You should be able to summarize all of the problems that you've had, and the suggestions that people have made.

You said "rubber" three times. Replacing old rubber with new rubber? You definitely don't want to grease the rubber bushings, the rubber will soak it up and might weaken. Might be what happened to the anti-seize. A little probably won't hurt them, it will leach back out as they go through some weathering.

You need to drive up to Texas and have a good mechanic really check your engine out. Even with a fairly poor carb tune, you shouldn't have all of these issues. Especially the back and forth shaking. Sounds like you have a dead cylinder. If you could collect and post all of the information about your engine, including the cylinder pressure readings, cam timing pictures, pictures of the cam lobes, all of that, you might get some good advice. I wouldn't be surprised if you had a flat cam lobe, since you just installed a new cam. They usually go bad soon after installation, if they're going to go bad. Get everything you know about the engine and cam that's in the car now, and take two pictures of the cam shaft, 180 degrees apart. Start a new thread.

Sounds like you're talking about aftermarket polyurethane, not factory rubber. I don't think that the urethane bushings will "lock down", they're round and inherently slippery, unlike the factory rubber bushings. Some people actually drill the bushing clamps and install Zerk fittings so that they can grease the bushings.

I would do Euro's test first to be sure, but if you need to replace it don't try to save the hose. Just cut the hose, remove the FPR, then cut the remaining pieces of hose lengthwise to remove them from the rail. Many small cuts, deeper and deeper until it breaks free is the way. Don't gouge the metal. Then when you reinstall, slide the hose on first (hose cut to proper length) and well down the rail. Insert the FPR then slide the hose back over to the FPR. Don't even fiddle with bending hose or fuel rail or trying to pry or squeeze anything in to a tight spot. Use WD-40 or your favorite spray lube. I farted around with trying to save the hose when removing filters and fuel rails and FPR's but the cost/benefit ratio is way shifted toward just cut it and put on new hose.

You can see in the FSM that the brown link should be of lower capacity than the green. How it got to 50 amps and red is still somewhat of a mystery. I think that someone took a guess may years ago and it has lasted.

You can turn the wheels to full-lock and get a decent view. Stick a camera or phone under there.

The issue of the flailing shaft top comes up occasionally with the guys that run EDIS or COP, since they don't need the distributor anymore. Some cut the distributor drive off. Some install a bearing in the top of the timing cover. Others let it spin in the timing cover hole. I've thought that it would be fine just using the cover hole as support, but design-wise it's not really lubricated and it's steel on aluminum, so that may not be right. Working backwards you'd think that the engineers must have been using the distributor shaft bottom and collar as support for the top of the quill. The distributor has what seems to be a precisely machined and located mount and the slotted collar holds the top of the shaft in place below. So ti's designed as an assembly, I think. The short answer is, it may not matter because the distributor shaft and bearing is doing the work. Don't know, just guessing. The procedure for setting that bottom screw seems right. The 280Z's got rid of the A and the R but they still have a cast-in mark that seems to give spec. timing. But there are no instructions anywhere about how to use it. Maybe it's supposed to be obvious. I dinked around with it when I started running out-of-spec. advance. Tried to get the spark pattern centered or at least all on the rotor electrode so I could be sure I wasn't getting stray sparking to the wrong plug. If you ponder what the distributor is doing during its advance mechanisms, you'll see that the rotor electrode-cap electrode relation moves around quite a bit. I only got half coverage by the time I was done.

Looking at your preceding post, I think that he meant he had the 79 calipers on the rear. My mistake. But still, unclear which disc shields are being discussed.

I have the 1980 5 speed, with 3.9. And my 5th is .773, not .745, like 1983. My car cruises easily at 60 mph for distance. 25.3 inch tires though. The 1983 .745 5th with a 3.54 seems like it would be best for highway cruising. When I had the 3.54 diff, 1st gear felt sluggish, so I went to the 3.9. Basically, the stock 1980 280ZX setup, except for a slightly larger tire. At 60 my car should be at 2400 RPM. Something odd here though. The calculator shows that 3000 RPM at 60 mph with a .745 gear and a 3.54 diff (Diseazd setup), would have an 18" tire. Kind of small. At 60 my car should be at 2400 RPM. 25.3 tire, .773 5th, 3.9 diff.

So this whole discussion, aside from rossiz's post, has been about a modified front brake setup? Shields removed? He said the brakes were fine when it was dry. Don't know why you'd do anything more than try to keep them that way. Add a shield. Don't fix unbroken stuff.

Exactly. You talked about erosion but you're showing different areas, one top and one bottom. And the lines on the bottom are machining lines from when the parts was made. Show the same area before and after, and after rubbing off the black material. No offence, but your pictures don't really show evidence of anything but some black staining.

This calculator seems to have everything. http://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx Without knowing tire diameter and transmission ratios, you're just comparing peoples' feelings.

Is this process documented somewhere, Nissan-wise? Just curious. It looks like a manufacturing adjustment to me. Set once, never touch again.

My rusty studs cleaned up well but I also ended my experiment early. It didn't loosen the frozen-on nuts either. It's a messy process anyway. Not right for the garage. You didn't show before and after of the same piece of the part. And did you try to clean the "black" from the mount? Might be iron deposits, not etching. 20 minutes is waaayyy too short to see much. Even straight sulfuric acid would take a few or more hours too dissolve the iron. No offense, but most chemistry requires lots of patience. Did you ever talk to your Chem. E. friend? That part is small enough and the area the stud in is set up just right for heating to expand the aluminum. I think that an EZ-out type remover and a torch would get it out. Plus you can fit the whole thing in a drill press to get a good hole drilled. Doesn't shed light on the alum question, but you can still save the part.

I think that the Pertronix electronic module just needs battery voltage on the red, doesn't really mater where it comes from. The black is the grounding circuit, through the module, for the coil negative. I'd just run a tap or extra wire from coil positive. The coil's powered as it was stock, the Pertronix has its voltage and the ground is through the module in to the distributor body. Make sure the distributor has a good ground. You didn't really say why you're changing the wiring you had, It worked before, didn't it? Or never connected? That second screw is a fine tune for where the spark hits the rotor contact, I believe. Orientation of rotor to cap, You could probably look around Google images to see where it usually ends up from the factory. I don't have aPertronix and never have. Just giving your thread a kick.

My mistake. Looks like you can get a 3.54 Subaru diff also. One more variable. Where's the calculator? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105868-subaru-diff-clarification/

I had to copy the text of the ad before it disappears. Too good to let get away. Only 60 minutes left on phone! blah blah blah 1970 Datsun 240Z - $2500 (Dogtown / Hillyard) © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap 4316 e longfellow (google map) 1970 Datsun 240Z condition: good cylinders: 6 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas paint color: blue size: compact title status: clean transmission: manual type: hatchback safety tips prohibited items product recalls avoiding scams lotta interest in this car, the 54th Zcar ever imported into USA. i'm not answering any emails and only have 60min left on my phone, so... the car needs refurbished. the floor is rusted, as are the rear wheel wells. i just put a new clutch in it, and had the original bucket seats redone in gray mohair. has original everything, and yes, it runs. i have all the stuff to restore her, but the car needs a new battery. if interested, text me when you can come by to check her out. michael p smith 4316 e longfellow spokane, wa 99217 show contact info ps i was robbed recently or i wouldn't be advertising this ride for sale. So, no pictures of the car, no further details, blah blah blah. i am firm on the price, too. those who know, who are into cars, this car is a legend. text me, and come see.

I've had my car for a few years and each change is just a new opportunity to optimize whatever I'm working with, which is whatever is available at the time. I had a 76 4 speed with a 3.54, then a 78 5 speed with a 3.54, then an 83 5 speed with a 3.54, the the 83 with a 3.9, then a late 80's with a 3.9. The factory pretty much made the right decisions, except for making the post-80 5th gear taller. If you want a 5th gear for highway cruising, just pick a set of parts that you can deal with and get it done. You'll probably be back in the future, looking for something else. But if you know that you want the STi for limited slip, plan around that. Looks like they only come in 3.9 or 4.11 so a 3.592 might be a wheel stander. 14:1 first gear. http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru+Transmission+Chart

I typically go back to the beginning and rethink what I'm trying to do after I collect a bunch of information. Often I find that my first plan wasn't really feasible. Some things that might help your thinking are the fact that most transmission/diff combinations are chosen by the factory to give about 12:1 first gear ratio, for performance-oriented cars. Below 12 and standing starts start to need more attention. The GL's and other odd options maybe not, but the basic cars are always at about 12. 4th gear is always 1:1 unless you get a non-typical racing old 5 speed. The spread between 1st and 4th is what will give the "close ratio" feel. Racing setups start up in the 2's for 1st gear, for example. Put a chart together of combinations and you'll be able to see right away what the whole project will take. That's just numbers. On the other side, you have availability, difficulty of the work, cost, and quality of the parts. 5 speeds, transmission modifications, rear diff swaps, and new aftermarket axles, as a few things to consider. Hard to recommend. I think that you said you really just wanted a 5th gear. The simple way to get there is a Z or ZX 5 speed and a 3.54 or 3.9 R200 diff. The fact that you've spent so much time on the CA 71C swap though, shows you might really want a more complicated project to work on. That's why my garage is full of parts.