Zed Head

Not positive but I think that a loose/messed up shift fork can cause that also. The roll pins break or come loose some times. Still has to come out to fix it. Does it feel different than the other gears when you move it in to gear? I think that the loose nut and a loose fork might feel similar. The coupling sleeve is not moving far enough to lock in to place. Might be able to feel something by hand, engine off. 5th would feel mushy and incomplete. Not clicky.

The ECU opens the injectors based on what it sees on the blue wire from the coil negative to the ECU Pin #1. You can test that circuit by connecting a wire to coil negative and tapping it to ground with the key On. Every tap should cause a spark from the coil and every third tap will case the injectors to click. You can also test continuity to coil negative from Pin 1 before getting crazy with jumper wires.

You have so much going on that it's easy to overlook the simple stuff. Here's an important one - did you get a new collar, the part with the ears that the fork sit on, with your clutch kit. The collar is a match to the pressure plate and if your new pressure plate has a different height than the old one you might have clutch release problems. The ears on the collar should be about 92 mm from the surface of the flywheel when it's all stacked. If you are using the old collar you should check that or check that the surface the TOB sits on is the same height for old and new pressure plates. On the clutch disc alignment tool - the weight of the disc will make it tilt down a little bit, especially if it's a sloppy fit (some tools are better than others). You need to hold it up and tight in to the bushing while you finger tighten a few of the pressure plate bolts. It can be difficult.

Just curious. That's what shows at the bottom of my page, like on this thread right now. there's even a Next button which I'll click after posting this. What's at the bottom of your page? Maybe it's just me and my computer.

Adsense. They know what you're looking at. They think we all are. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AdSense

Don't forget the good old coolant temperature sensor. The #1 cause of running rich (aka "over fueling"), I believe.

What kind of bird is that in the background? Mockingbird? Interested in how the nut-splitter works out. I've never used one.

Yes, the fork and TO bearing are wiggly, but make sure that they are both properly clipped in to place. The TOB on the fork, and the fork on the pivot ball. Also, did you seal the threads on the pivot ball? I ad a transmission that leaked from there and had to pull the transmission again. The threaded hole ends in the fluid area.

Well then, there are numbers stamped on the ring gear. The number of teeth on each gear. Grease the half-shaft u-joints while you're at it.

No need to pull the diff. You can mark the tires and the input flange and turn the wheels. Turn both wheels one revolution and count how many times the input flange turns. If you lay under the diff you can reach both tires at the same time while looking up at the flange. As long as they both end up where they started the math will be right.

Too much fuel? No fuel now that you fixed #6? You had the engine apart. Have you verified all timing events, cam timing and ignition timing? No offense, but your trials with the power wire to the fusible link show that you may not be as familiar with how things work as you should be. I get the impression that you're assuming that you put everything back just like it was so it should start up just like it did. But you already missed one important wire. I'd go back and check all of those important things. Write them down and tell us what they are. You'll probably find the problem while you're doing that.

They don't usually stick open because there's a spring inside that shuts them. Could still happen but could also be an electrical problem, a short to ground on the ECU side. Unplug it and check that the terminals in the plug aren't grounded. The Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM has an excellent description of how things work, with diagrams.

This is a pretty easy one to think through. How can one cylinder get more fuel than the other cylinders? What provides the fuel to the cylinder?

Sometimes the seals will have part numbers on them that identify the size and materials used, even if the brand is defunct. The seal form, depth, diameter, and material type are often buried in the part number. A good seal and bearing shop could measure it for you and find one that will work. I found an old furnace pump seal that way. They didn't even blink, just looked at it and went to the back room.

It's not good for an alternator to use your alternator to charge a dead battery. You should charge the battery before trying to start the car. One dead battery + one charged battery = one partially-charged battery.

People say that's a sign of one of the shaft nuts coming loose. The CS nut, I think. There are threads out there on various forums. You have to pull it apart to fix it.

I think that Mark went directly to what might be the real problem. What you described is an electrical circuit that is made, then broken for no apparent reason. If you make the contact by pushing the horn button, what causes it to go away? You didn't let up on the button. And Terrapin's pictures show what is even more likely, I think. Rusty, dirty contacts will open up as they heat up from current flow. That contact is supposed to be always made, even as the wheel turns. I think that you could check that one by pressing the button and turning the wheel. You might get several beeps or it only beeps in one spot. I had that problem on a Pathfinder, the contact had just worn away. 240,000 miles on it. It was a different design but had the same purpose.

Follow the white wires from the fusible link sockets. The thing with the white square plastic cap on it. One of them should go to the starter lug. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf

No harm, no foul! If the tool is the same, undamaged, after its unintended usage, you've added value. Vise-Grips probably started as a pair of pliers with a C-clamp on the handles. Bubba doing R&D.

Nah. Washington was a popular guy. OR not MN.

There's not a lot to the "mechanism:". A spring holds one metal piece away from another metal piece. When the two metal pieces touch, the horn beeps. If it beeps it should keep beeping. Was your mechanic really focused on it or did he just make an offhand comment? And how was he making it beep? Not really clear that you had the complete assembly together and were pushing it as a normal horn button, or doing something else. I thought your horn button was falling apart anyway.

I circled in red where I think your problem is. you left a wire disconnected maybe. Follow the power path. The wire you're looking for is white and thick and will have a ring terminal. Here's another page from site's link - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf Edit - had the wrong year before.

I've done numerous disdainful things. I don't think the press would have the leverage. I'd use a mallet on the shaft and brace the table. Maybe drop it down on to some wooden blocks. Inertia is your friend.

You bring up another option. If he has a drill press he might be able to stick the shaft up through the bit relief hole, block/fixture around the bearing and either use the press as a lever or drop the table down and pound on the shaft.

I'd post a lizzle to the wizzle pizzle. Or a link to the product page. Just for conversation, if nobody actually is using it.