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Zed Head

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Everything posted by Zed Head

  1. I just see an old low mileage 240Z that was in storage for a really long time. A closer read of the BAT listing shows that it was essentially in "storage" from 1981 to 2017. 36 years. It went to a museum in 2002. They probably did some touchup, you'd think. So, basically, everyone should imagine that it's 1981 and you're looking at a 1971 240Z. A ten year old 240Z with 31,000 miles on the odometer. Ten years to collect some dings and have various repair shops working on it for whatever reason. Seems like the FIVA award and the attention to describing the rusty bolt heads and the paint thickness are having the opposite effect. They're overplaying the rarity. Too much selling. Funnily enough, I just watched some of the Back to the Future movies. Imagine...it's 1981 and you have a chance to buy a low mileage 1971 240Z.
  2. I shouldn't have been pretty sure. I wouldn't think running the hose straight through the firewall was a good idea. At least I qualified my thought. Good that they figured out a better way by the 260Z. Nonetheless. If those are original hoses they're ready to blow. So, at least, something to consider if the hoses are ever changed.
  3. I think that the heater core has two male fittings that poke through the firewall. Might not be obvious but pretty sure the 240Z's are the same as the 280Z's.
  4. If that stuff is old sealant then you're right to be careful. Some sealers have a curing reaction that happens after the solvent is gone. That will make it more difficult for new sealant to stick to it. But, Red-Kote is apparently completely soluble. So it can be stripped out if there's a problem.
  5. Edit - Dang it, how can a whole hour go by then two people post at exactly the same time? I was replying below to siteunseen's post. I'm saying just replace the two pieces of hose with the Y connection in the middle with one piece of hose. The Y doesn't serve a purpose anymore. Unless you want to keep it for the extra port in to the cooling system. And to be clear I used "penis" as another word for ****. Instead of rooster. Just to be ridiculous.
  6. I get the urge to make what you have work. But, the "other" solution is a long piece of hose and use the guides/holders that a 280Z uses. Removes many potential leak areas. On the other hand, a person could put a valve/stop penis on the Y port and use it for flushing the cooling system. Stole this from the internet to show the 280Z hose.
  7. I like to do easy experiments before big jobs, if I can. You might take that rod you used, tie a rag or something to the end of it, put a blob of Red-Kote on it and plant it on the metal that you can see. If it peels right off after it dries you might have a problem. If it sticks hard you'll know you're good. Or just drop a blob of Red-Kote down there and see if you can peel it off with that metal rod after it dries. Just an idea. I like the sealer concept for pinholes, not so sure on a pinhole-free but rusty surface. Just me though. Seems like you can take a tank that works and create one that doesn't, if things go wrong. With pinholes you have a tank that doesn't work and you just end up with the same thing.
  8. This is just me, but if there are no pinholes I would run it as it is. Make sure you have a good cap to keep the moisture out and maybe add a prefilter on the tank outlet. Most people with Z's that don't have fueling problems probably don't realize how rusty the inside of their tank is. No offense to those that don't know. Go look and post a picture. One of the keys to using Red-Kote is to make sure it's dried/cured before adding fuel. Also notice that they do not say that all rust has to be gone. Just most of it. http://damonq.com/red-kote.html http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf
  9. Stick a metal rod down there and see if that stuff is loose and breakable or tough and bonded to the surface. Give it a good scrape and see what happens. The tank sealer just needs a good solid clean surface to stick to.
  10. Kind of looks like he might have been stiffening up the body for drag racing. How does the engine bay look? Are the factory L28 engine mounts in place? Looks like quite a project. Keep an eye out for a wrecked 280Z for interior parts. They're hard to find.
  11. This is a weird thing, the welded hole. Even the automatic needs that. Some sort of hydraulically actuated thing? What's the back story on the car?
  12. The typical wear parts really don't show much wear. Unless the original owner took really long trips.
  13. Are these guys in on it? Love a good mystery. https://fiva.org/en/awards/fiva-awards/#:~:text=The FIVA preservation award recognises,under the patronage of UNESCO.
  14. Seems like the guys writing the BAT words weren't sure about the 31,000 miles either. They say "shows" 31k, not has. Interesting though, the service records indicate not many miles at all from 1981, the 30,000 plus is all pre-storage. I pulled a few dates and mileages from the receipts. Too bad there's not more before 1979. 30,000 miles in 8 years is 3,750 / year. Weekend cruiser numbers. 15,000 / year is daily driver numbers and gets 120,000 total. So those 79 odometer numbers could be rollover numbers. Are the numbers all wonky, the rollover clue? July 28 1979 30,191 July 16 1981 30,395 July 17 2017 30625 August 1 2017 30626 Haven't seen an unrolled odometer so can't judge. Wear on other parts would be a sign also. Gears, throttle linkage, stuff like that.
  15. You could just run a new piece of hose and get rid of the T (Y) entirely. Every plug is a potential leak. And if those braided hoses are original they're ready to blow. The coolant lines to the heater core are probably the most common cause of overheating. I think I just saw two stories about it on the forum, and I have my own story, coming up the Highway 26 hill at night, and not noticing that my temperature gauge was pegged out until I got to the top. Close enough to home to just keep going and hope. The heater core hose had split and was blowing steam by the time I got home. It survived but I was never really sure it hadn't made my head gasket coolant leak worse. Anyway, those old braided hoses are dangerous.
  16. Actually, if you consider the thermostat as a "block" that kind of answers the whole question. Blocking it is just like having the thermostat closed. In that little cooling line only, not the main thermostat. Running a "bypass" is the common error when people get in to those types o lines, like for the heater core. Bypasses serve no purpose. I vote for blockage.
  17. I'm just saying be aware of unintended consequences. The original line has a thermostat in it, which would be a restriction. If you just run a straight line you might create substantial flow that doesn't do much cooling. Think about the flow path of the coolant. It's supposed to travel past hot surfaces before going to the radiator. If it doesn't it's just wasted pump volume. You need a small amount of flow past the closed thermostat valve so that the wax pellet will see the hot water and open. Most thermostats have a small hole to do that. You're probably fine, and neater, just blocking the ports.
  18. Your post reminded me of this book. It's what you really want. https://www.amazon.com/Restore-Datsun-Z-Car-Humble-2002-01-10/dp/B01FIWZ3PG
  19. Enjoy the weird words, an ad somehow got incorporated and blended in to my quote of your words. Like The Fly. Something for you @Mike, not a big deal, just a little light. One thing you might do is to put a restriction in the line. The only purpose of that flow once you take the carbs out of the picture will be to heat the thermostat and it won't take much. And you might not even need that if your thermostat has the small bypass hole to accomplish the same purpose. Otherwise, like when bypassing the heater core, that flow does not cool the head like it should. It bypasses it, and in effect, reduces water pump volume. Just a thought. You need all the cooling you can get. Edit - I'm a slow writer.
  20. Check the Downloads area. The Factory Service Manual should be there. From the top of the page...Resources>Downloads> https://www.classiczcars.com/files/
  21. Some links I came across. http://datnissparts.com/4-5-synchro-hub-datsun-competition-nissan-motorsports-f5c71b-direct-drive-5-speed-also-is-3-4-hub-in-the-non-usa-fs5c71b-close-wide-ratio-5-speed-32605-e9500/ http://lescollinsracing.com/transmission/gearbox https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50549-fs5c71b-transmission/ http://www.nnzcc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/240Z_-Factory-Transmissions-knowledge-overview-Options-and-Specs-JDMjunkies.chJDMjunkies.pdf Same post, different site https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2016-06-07/240z-transmissions-manuals-swap-possibillities/
  22. The latch is usually adjusted for fit. Does it sit low compared to the body lines next to it? You might do better by pressing the hatch shut. I found that my car was sealed so well that it was air pressure inside that made the doors or hatch difficult to close. Try closing it with a window or door open and see if it's different. Dropping the hatch closed doesn't give enough time for the air to get out.
  23. Fuel pumps do wear out eventually. But, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Noise from the pump usually means it's working harder, either pushing or pulling . You could have a clogged filter or junk in the tank. In the same vein, on the hesitation, when was the last tune-up? Pretty common to get so used to a good running engine that you overlook the periodic maintenance. I remember spending a lot of time looking for a big problem on a car when it just needed new plugs and points.
  24. Pennzoil's brand seems to work just as well. Internet has it that Pennzoil developed the formula for GM (AC Delco). I wonder how Dutchzcar managed to find Slick50 in The Netherlands. Just remembered though that the other magic fluid for Porsche synchros is Swepco 201. Diluted with ATF for the Nissan units. But it came from Porsche world, a guy who owned a Porsche shop. JMortensen has posted about it. Maybe Swepco 201 can be found, it's more of an industrial fluid. https://www.swepcolube.com/products/swepco-201-multi-purpose-gear-lube
  25. I remember Slick50. Based on how synchro gears work, that seems like a not-good choice for transmission fluid (no offense). It has PTFE particles in it to minimize friction. Synchros need a balance between friction and viscosity to allow the speed matching to occur. If you want to take a chance with $50 I'd try the AC Delco Friction-modified Synchromesh before tearing the transmission down. I'd just let the other stuff drain out and refill with Synchromesh. Otherwise, there's a post on Hybridz about modifying Porsche synchros to work in the steel synchro 5 speeds. I think that FS5C has steel instead of "brass" (yellow). https://slick50.info/manual-gearbox-treatment/ http://skepdic.com/slick50.html https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/1996/07/quaker-state-ads-slick-50-are-false-and-misleading-ftc-charges https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92246-to-people-with-experience-with-the-datsun-comp-5-speed-need-parts-for-one/
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