Zed Head

Post a picture of one. Try to get the part number also. Nissan used a common part number but different colors for their injectors. If they're aftermarket the part number might tell something. If they're Nissan the color will. Cleaning injectors isn't worth a lot but the flow testing will be valuable. Don't do cleaning without flow testing.

I don't try things that don't make sense. The bias would be 75:25. That's not negligible. So, in sum, you've used the Toyota calipers and the car stops, about the same as it did before. Less pedal effort, level undefined. That's about all there is to this discussion. Good luck Jeff.

That joke isn't even funny. I'll simplify my argument - if brakes same why bother.

You used the vague term "perfectly well" again. Nissan has a test for proper brake bias, where you lock up the tires to be sure that they're balanced. So here's the logic - if the stock parts give proper brake bias, how can the Toyota calipers be "better" without changing that bias? And if they don't change the bias how can they be "better". They would be the same. And if they're the same, what's the point of using them? That's the issue that always comes up with these "upgrades". What is being improved? All you're saying is that you did something and the car still stops.

I was being sarcastic about about tzagi1's use of the word "fine". Your brakes were "fine" with the stock caliper. With the four piston caliper and bigger pads you created a front bias. Not fine anymore, weaker in the back now. Now your front pads and rotors are doing the bulk of the work. The purpose of the NP valve is to get all four tires contributing to stopping equally. The whole car is designed to be very well balanced. The stock stuff works really well when it's working right.

Just remove the rear brake system and block the lines. Then you won't have to worry about leaks. It will work "fine".

I was indirectly asking/inferring why you didn't just use the stock calipers. Plus the fact that you didn't complete the job. Have you bled them yet? There is often loads of fun for that with the various brake "upgrades". The NP valve is not adjustable.

What will you be using on the back to match the lower pressure required for the fronts? It's unbalanced now. I tried to browse through but didn't see anything about the master cylinder either. The four pistons use more fluid so you could get extra travel in your pedal if you don't increase MC diameter.

I wonder if some guy was really sneaking around there with a big hand held camera. Must have been way back in the shadows. It was pre-mobile phone.

The other thing that causes rev limiter behavior is a shorted throttle valve switch (TVS, or TPS). Washing the engine is the most common cause. p.s. always nice to get the common courtesy of acknowledging someone's post. One out of three isn't bad, but still, three is not that many.

$30,000. Not bad.

You can get your own part numbers here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-240Z-260Z/Cylinder-Head Check out #38, on your interference problem. More choices.

Too bad it's on craigslist. Probably never find out what it goes for or even if it sells. Maybe somebody could contact the seller and tell him to put it on BAT.

It does have a rally clock. I might trade him a Valiant for it.

Are you easing your way up to 3000, at partial throttle, and the problem happens? Could be the "lean" problem. If you can finesse it to some open road, you might find that full throttle takes it right up to 6000 rpm, but part-throttle coughs, bucks and pops back through the intake system. Full throttle adds 27% extra fuel. If that fits, then 246's atlanticz fuel tweak is one way to fix it. Not sure what the exact cause is but it seems related to the AFM. Could also be that somebody has leaned out your AFM by adjusting the spring. Either way, it sounds lean.

The front mount can be flipped also.

My mistake, thanks for the correction. Here's a more general layman's world document. https://polyurethane.americanchemistry.com/Products-Resources-and-Document-Library/General-Personal-Protective-Equipment-Recommendations-for-Automotive-Refinish-Coating-Applications.pdf I spent a summer at a chemical factory and some of the old-timers there said that they used to use TDI (toluene diisocyanate) to degrease their hands. They also used to dump unwanted drums in the river. Times have changed.

The link I put in my last post shows the changes. It's just a little cringe-worthy watching you grind when you can bolt instead. Carry on...

There's three different diff mounts out there. #16 below. Why would you need a spacer if the holes aren't the right size. Thought you were going to grind and oblong. Lots of ways to get the diff in there, but if it's not right you might have vibration and noise problems, if you drive it. What are you going to do with the car once it's together? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Axle/Rear-Suspension

Actually, they can be both or more. The starting material can be an epoxy, with the curing agent being isocyanate-based, or vice-versa with the starting material being a polyurethane (from isocyanates) and the curing reaction being from epoxies. People can get sensitized to agents used to make either. Really, any coating with volatiles, the solvents that you can smell, is dangerous. There is no safe solvent or coating, before it's cured. I met somebody that had applied epoxy coatings and adhesives for years until one day when his body decided no more. He couldn't even get near to them after that. He still seemed stunned telling us the story, as students visiting his kit airplane company. Avoid the vapors, even if you've not had prior problems. Once you get sensitized you can't be fixed, no going back. Charcoal filters designed for organic vapors is what you want. Or a self-contained breathing system. https://www.osha.gov/dts/shib/respiratory_protection_bulletin_2011.html

Thought you were the owner and it was sitting in the family garage. Just realized that you're a car dealer and it's the company garage. Why don't you guys just put it back together? You should have the people. You have some nice old cars in stock. https://www.victorynaples.com/ https://www.victorynaples.com/1966-Ford-F250/Used-PickupTruck/Naples-FL/11226530/Details.aspx

I don't know the break point for model years. October is either late 70 or early 71. The date you're seeing is the build date. All manufacturers start building next year's models before the first of the year. It's neat car with paperwork. Keep those documents and put a story together.