Zed Head

Overdrive.

Which one is NICB? How many did you have to try to find the free one? What kind of information did you get? This is "USA CarRecord". The second one is one of the other guys.

I didn't see a picture of a 620 in that link. Here's what I was looking at below. The tail shaft opening on the 71C's is dramatically bigger. The metal ring is pressed on. The 71C's are early 80's VG30 engines and on I believe. I think he had to have done a front case swap. Anyway, it's a done deal. $27,000 for somebody's 240Z hobby that they messed around with. From zhome - http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I've heard of those but never seen one. Explains maybe why the transmission mount fits. The typical 71C swap needs a modified mount.

I think it is what you're thinking of. Unfortunately, instead of making it free to the public like they should because our tax money paid for it, they've made it available for companies to use and charge us for the information. Double taxation.

I think the bigger question might be "how low is lowered?" One inch is really not much. Not even sure it counts. I just recalled that the instructions that come with the KYB struts might say something about lowered cars. I think that that might be where the internet recommendations come from. I have them on my ~ one inch lowered car and have no issues, never even bottomed them out. Type of driving and road quality would matter also. I just found a blurb on the Koni site, from less than a week ago about Koni re-introducing a 240Z strut. Spooky. Looks like Motorsport Auto is involved. Surprised they haven't posted something on the site. They don't seem to be available yet, on their web site. Might be worth a call. http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/ Here's another blurb with a phone number at the end. http://www.koni-na.com/getattachment/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/37102_KONI_Datsun_Z_Motorsport_PressRelease.pdf.aspx/?lang=en-US

$27,000 for a resto-mod.

https://www.vehiclehistory.gov/nmvtis_vehiclehistory.html

I just found something that I didn't realize existed. But I doubt that it's complete or current, let alone back-filled with older car information. It depends on the states to supply the information. So, we're back to the individual states. We have states down here that often threaten to secede. Try some VIN's and see what comes up. https://www.vehiclehistory.gov/index.html "Who operates and manages NMVTIS?The U.S. Department of Justice is responsible for oversight of the implementation and operation of NMVTIS, and works in partnership with the American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA)." Looks like the Act that created it was passed in 1992.

Looks like a "71C" transmsission. You can tell by the size of the tail opening. Could be from a 240SX or a 300ZX or a later model truck. It's not from an S30 though.

I think that this is the key here. You can't do this in the States. Each state, of the 50, plus the various territories, has their own method of keeping records.

It's talked about in the BaT comments but nobody seems sure. It's a 5 speed from a different car, origin unknown.

For what you're planning a set of KYB's would work fine. Many people use them, on lowered cars too. You'll find a ton of comments across the internet about what you have to do to use lowering springs, and what "won't work". But you'll find almost zero stories about anybody who actually had a bad experience. You'll probably find stories too about how you can't use Koni reds on a lowered car because they were specified for stock ride height. JEGS is a cheap source - https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogId=10002&langId=-1&productId=331926&storeId=10001 or these guys - https://thmotorsports.com/380079-koni-adjustable-special-d-twin-tube-mcpherson-strut-cartridge?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6IDVlbOE4AIVAhx9Ch1EaAaaEAYYASABEgKIvfD_BwE or you can save some money, put the car together, then see what you really need. You might decide to go with full adjustable "coil over"s. - https://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6

Check the laws in your state and Kentucky. A call to each DMV should answer your questions. A bill of sale and a release of interest is a very common way to sell a car. Without either though, you'll probably have problems.

Lowering the car will cut down on roll. Here's a good source for part numbers. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension

You're not going to find much in that price range that doesn't have a whole lot more work to do than patching 280Z bumper shock holes. Good luck though. Writing more words will get more interest.

See if the little yellow wire to the starter solenoid has voltage when you turn the key to Start. Some of the cars have an inhibitor switch. GL model with automatic transmission. Otherwise it's just a yellow wire from the ignition switch all the way to the starter solenoid, with one connection along the way. The connector would look exactly like the picture, with 21 pins.

What are your plans? Why not a 280Z?

Here's one diagram. It's a pretty simple relay. Looks like you can check at least one side at the fuse panel. I didn't look for the other side but it's probably in the same chapter.

What are you starting with? A completely stock 240Z that was parked in 1994? Or did it already have some mods? Are the Konis 24 years old? Have you been watching the conversations about values? An old stock 1970 car might be worth keeping stock. Got any pictures? Stock rubber busings can often be found. "Poly" is oversold and a bit hypey. The poly guys just made replicas of every rubber part they could find and advertised them as a performance upgrade. And colored them red.

Some of the 88's have a VLSD. The Shiro's. The one in your link looks like one. Don't know if they all had the VLSD or if some had the CLSD. Something to check. The Hemmings article implies that they all do. They have special axles so don't swap easily. "Other bits included a viscous limited-slip diff" https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2014/05/Superhero-Shiro---1988-Nissan-300ZX-Shiro-Special/3737671.html

Can't you post the link?

Although, it does look toasty down there. https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2019/jan/19/australia-swelters-as-relentless-hot-weather-smashes-records

Wrong crowd.

Another clue to a draw is a spark when you attach the battery cables. Only the clock should draw current and it creates a tiny tiny spark. Just offering basic from-the-start troubleshooting ideas. Your story jumps around a lot.