Zed Head

One sign that the valve is blocking flow is if the pump gets louder. It's a common problem when people use the Walbro 255 on the 240Z's after converting EFI. The carb return lines are too small for the pumps 255 liter per hour flow rate. Anyway, always fun to experiment. I tried to solve a pressure leakdown problem on my car when I was trying to make an adjustable FPR work. They leak down too. Had the same hard start problem. What brand of fuel hose are you using?

Those are pressure numbers, not volume of fuel. If you restrict fuel flow the leak will get worse between the pump and the valve. If you put the valve where you clamped the line it would probably work for startup. But you'll still have leaking fuel in the back somewhere. Seems like fixing the leak is the best solution.

Not sure of the logic here but your pump should already have a check valve. If the cause of the pressure loss is a leak then adding another check valve won't solve it. And SteveJ offered a good example of finding actual specs but that specific example doesn't seem right for high pressure EFI. The call out low pressure applications. Forgot to say, flow rate is important also. EFI pumps push a lot of fuel. The valve might check but it also needs to flow.

Don't lose those shims. I could not get my brakes to not squeal until I found an old crusty set of factory shims like those. None of the tricks/fixes worked.

Have you checked continuity from Pin 1 to the negative side of the coil? And have you checked for spark? The blue wire splits three ways after it leaves the coil - the ignition module under the dash by the fuse box, the tachometer, and the ECU's Pin 1. The blue wire at the coil is the same wire that allows the ignition module to create spark, in the factory setup. There are other reasons that the injectors won't work, with Pin 1 connected correctly.

The different hole patterns might be for the coupe and 2+2 pressure plates. By the way, common wording is either pressure plate and/or clutch cover. The pressure plate bolts will pull the cover down to the flywheel. They are what apply the force that creates the friction that allows the clutch assembly to transfer power. It's important to tighten the bolts evenly to avoid warping the cover. As you tighten the bolts the pressure plate springs will take a load. Patcon posted while I was writing...

That is unusual. Have you stuck the pin through the hole in the pressure plate? The main purpose is alignment. Here's a Nissan pin. It's pressed in. If it was loose it could fall out. https://www.thezstore.com/product/1026/factory-clutch-dowel-pin-70-96-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-z31-z32

I think it's meant to be permanent. That's why they are using high temperature compound. Most dowel pins are an interference fit and need to be tapped in. It's actually odd that Fidanza's are not. Might be that they made the holes too big and chose the retaining compound as a fix. If you're planning to remove the dowels after torquing the pressure plate down then don't use any retaining compound. The Loctite data sheet is an interesting read. Retaining compounds are pretty durable. It should be fine to leave the dowels in place.

"Super glue's" cure in the absence of air. So, in the gap between the dowel and the metal of the flywheel in this case. I'd just put a drop on the dowel surface itself before inserting it in the hole. Give it a spin as you insert it. Capillary forces will spread it around the gap, then it will cure. You'll probably see some uncured material at the edge of the holes but you can just wipe that off or leave it. https://www.huyett.com/adrc03-17ht-gn1m It's going to be a lot like this Loctite product. Might even be made by Loctite. https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-660-en_GL.pdf

https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/stainless-steel-cable-ties

I had second thoughts on my 8 mm comment above. I searched around and do see the 7.5 mm number on several forums. But I've seen in the past that sometimes a single post somewhere on the internet will propogate, especially if there is no valid source to refer to. All I've found so far is people like me above saying XX is the proper number. Anyway, 5/16" fuel injection hose has worked for many, including myself. 7.5 mm is an odd number for an engineer to choose. 8 makes sense, 7.5 doesn't. Another puzzle to work on.

You can test it on the running engine if you have a timing light. And you can test for a cracked diaphragm by sucking on the hose.

It's not obvious. I had to think about it some when I was doing mine. https://www.beswick.com/resources/what-they-didnt-teach-you-about-fittings-in-engineering-school/ ". The sharp barb digs into the inside diameter of the tubing making a high pressure contact and providing a leaktight seal. Properly designed barbed fittings allow the tubing to be easily pushed onto the fitting but make it difficult to pull off."

8 mm is the original size (maybe). That works out to 5.04/16". 5/16" is actually tighter than factory. The barbs on the injector do the work to hold the pressure. The sharp edges create a tight seal. I just jammed mine on and had no problems over many many miles. The procedure in the FSM works fine.

Wide open adds 27% more than the base setting.