Zed Head

Not sure what it means but I misspelled hoses above as hosea. Prophet of Doom. No offense intended to anyone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosea

This is the book you want for doing your electrical tests. It is more clear than the FSM. Do your testing at the ECU plug and get actual reistance readings if you can. The water temperature sensor is important for determining the fuel-air ratio. Make a list of each reading. Most people go too fast looking for the quick find and fix. Then they have to go back and do it all over again. Been there. If the reading at the ECU is wrong then work your way out to the engine. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ The smoke from the throttle body would be through the auxiliary air regulator (AAR). It is open when cold to allow a high idle speed. It's the torpedo shaped thing with two big hosea and an electrical connector. Not sure what's up with the fuel pump readings since the engine started. If you get it running well engough to drive it and it pops back and bucks, try the fuel tweak. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Deeper and deeper he goes...😈

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.

Did Nissan ever sell the internals separately? All I see is whole assemblies.

I wonder if it's more of an early Z problem. Looks like Nissan changed the switch a few times over the years. Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch...Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch (2) Index

There's nothing stopping the fluid flow when bleeding, that's why the pedal drops to the floor. The fact that the pedal is hard after bleeding shows the bleeding was effective. All of the air was removed. Before, when you were pumping the pedal you were comnpressing air in the hydraulic lines. Brake fluid is not very compressible, air is. Overall, really, what you're describing just sounds like a booster that's not boosting. No vacuum source or a mechanical problem internally. The system is designed for the force amplification of the vacuum booster. A simple test for a bad booster is to press the pedal with the engine off and note the distance, then compare it to a press with the engine on. The pedal should sink more with the engine on. You changed several parts at the same time so it can be hard to figure out which part had which effect. I would first confirm that you have vacuum to the booster. Do the test above or just start the engine and remove the hose from the booster. The engine should rev higher or die. If it does, you have a booster problem. If it doesn't yoor vacuum hose is blocked.

It would help to be more specific on what "bleed the brakes" means. Are you saying that with a bleeder valve open the pedal will go to the floor and squirt a bunch of fluid? That would mean your pedal and MC are working as they should. The booster just adds force on top of the MC pistons. Does each caliper squirt the same amount of fluid with the same amount of pedal travel? When you say not much braking pressure do you mean the car does not slow down? Even though the pedal is pushed as far as it will go? It sounds like the hydraulics are working correctly but the pads aren't creating enough friction. Any chance you got some silicone lube or grease on the pads? I'd also take a hard look at the proportioning valve. If it's set for too much rear bias you won't get much stopping power from the fronts. Good luck. Interesting problem. Or, ignore all of that and assume that you have a bad booster. Maybe put the old one back on if you still have it. Also, check your check valve in the booster vacuum hose. Make sure you're actually pulling vacuum at the booster nipple.

Some noise.

Context? Where did that come from? It is Saturday night of course... 🤩

I just grasped what you were saying here. Your first post was caused by putting the phone on your Hazard switch. Which has identified a Hazard switch problem (maybe) since all of the lights should have been flashing. Your second problem, which is apparently new, is that your turn signal doesn't seem to work at all. That could be caused by the turn signal switch in the combo switch itself, or the flasher, or the fuses. How long have you had the car? Was everything working correctly before you put your phone on the Hazard switch?

I think that's Al Allen, aka URGELIS.

Not really clear what the "current" problem is. Blinker won't go off would be a short to power problem. Blinker doesn't work at all would be an open circuit problem. Also not clear what you mean by "Both blinkers don't work (lights and dash indicators) ". Just trying to understand. The Hazard switch has a left and right circuit and its own power supply and flasher to flash the lights. I think that it could have been the source of the first problem. Does the left blinker still stay on when the key is off?

So, can we think up some simple tests to run, maybe at the flasher or the plug itself, that might show low resistance through the turn signal circuit? Or high resistance at the contacts. Any chance the flasher itself is pulling too much current? Or do we just assume that the cleaning and modification was not well done? Seems like the sliding contacts must have got gummed up. This is actually datsuniverse writing -

I found a "restored" listing. https://ebay.us/m/4gvALW

Electrical principles can be difficult. datsununiverse might be more of a mechanical person. If he cleaned up the switch and rerturned it that seems fair. Sounds like he's saying that he doesn't really know what went wrong. People often get voltage and current mixed up. I found his eBay store front but don't see a web site. Can't tell what "rebuilt" means. https://www.ebay.com/str/datsuniverse