Zed Head

Can't imagine buying something from Dezart. He attacks people that offend him, doesn't keep track of his customer base, and apparently has trouble with simple internet processes. What do the words below even mean?

You need to read this. It will explain how the things work that you're playing with.

You need to read this. It will expalin how the things work that you're playing with.

First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. Actually the tachometer and the ECU use the same circuit for the coil discharge signal, from the coil negative terminal. It's branched. One end goes to the ignition module for spark creation, one to the tachometer for the RPM measurement, and one to the ECU pin #1 for injector timing. Every third spark the ECU squirts half the fuel "calculated" to be necessary.

Don't throw the parts away. They have value to somebody.

If you do get the engine running well, replace all of the old fuel lines on the rail and the injectors before too much driving. I smelled gasoline on mine one day while driving and when I opened the hood a tiny stream of gasoline shot by me on to the sidewalk. They dry out and crack lengthwise. The small stuff will eat up a lot of your time but it's worth it once you're done.

Here is a way to test the function of the injectors separately from the ECU. With the ECU connector removed from the ECU, turn the key on. Then short the pins in the ECU connector from the injectors to ground with a quick tap. Each tap should produce a click frm the relevant injector. You'll need a quiet garage or a friend in the engine bay to hear them. Or a long wire.

How long has it been sitting? What's the back story?

The engine can run off puddled fuel in the intake manifold. If the injectors were opening the engine would continue to run. cgcheen's suggestion about testing with a 9 volt battery was a good one. You can run separate jumper wires if you don't have an EV1 connector. With a 9 volt alkaline battery you don't have to worry about melting wires if you accidentally short them. You'll hear a click when you connect the 9 volts, if they're opening. Also, with 9 volts you can leave the voltage connected while you tap them. You'll have the solenoid pulling them open if you can get them to break loose. Pin 1 at the ECU is the ignition signal that the ECU uses to monitor engine RPM. It's connected to the negative terminal of the coil. It should read battery voltage with the key on. But it also needs a certain type of voltage pulse. There are things that can screw it up. You're making great progress.

I almost made a comment about AI. It's basically a better Google search. But that's about it.

Yarb, the 1980 EFI book is the official Nissan electrical troubleshooting manual. It's basically the FSMs stripped down to the bare essentials and combined in to easy to use charts and instructions.

Besides cgsheen1's suggestion, tapping on the injector bodies will often break them free. In your case though it might take a while to get all six free. The engine will run on three cylinders. Sounds like you don't have any injectors working.

Are you saying that it still will not continue to run? That you have to do this trick over and over? That would make sense. Each "Start" squirts some fuel in to the intake manifold. The cold start system would be working corectly. Not a problem. Still sounds like your injectors are not opening. Pin 1.

There is no cold start sensor. You're at a good point to read the Engine Fuel chapter.

Sean, you need to improve your reading and comprehension skills. My messages are clearly meant to help the guy find you. And my second message implies that it was his fault you didn't want to reply to him. Both messages are in your favor. Why DM a guy who doesn't respond to a customer's messages? And why try to help a guy run his own business? Not my responsibility. You're way off base and not making sense. Good luck with your business.