Pomorza

Chickenman I'm going out of town next week so I won't have pictures until sometime after I get back. I saw nothing out of the ordinary when I took the passenger's side drum off other than those grooves in the drum. They aren't deep but you can feel them if you slide your finger across. There's an ungodly amount of brake dust when I take these off, it always has been this way it seems. I've never owned a vehicle with drums so I'm not sure if that's normal or not. Off topic question. Should your RPM go up when you pump the brakes or is this a sign of a failing (failed) brake booster? Thanks mates Jan

Hey mates So about a year ago I redid my rear brakes, replaced all the hardware, drums and shoes with new parts. This past week my rear brake started sqeaking when coming to a stop. Wasn't bad at first but now it sounds awful. I took the drum off and inspected the shoes but all looks find. The drum itself did seem like it had grooves in it - I'm assuming from braking. Any ideas on what this could be? It sounds terrifying whien coming to a stop, to the point where it sounds like its metal on metal. Thanks Jan

Not the inner seals mates, the outer (Upper) seals, being the onese on the outside of the hatch, the thinner of the two/

Hey mates To answer all the questions. 1. By screw driver I mean one with a socket on the end of it (14mm). As I stated above I tend to only go finger tight and then a quarter or so turn using either said driver or a rachet. 2. There was only red on the #4 plug. I have used EFI cleaner (lucas) in the past. I've been running premium fuel in my Z for ages so there is no change there. I also tend to run lean on the freeway (about 15.4 or so on the A/F gauge) as to get better gas mileage which would cause it to run warmer. By red I mean like a dark red, very dark pink color. It was rather hard (carbon deposit) which I cleaned up and regapped the plugs. 3. If I recall correctly, the plugs have maybe 10k on them, I don't have the records on my at the moment but that seems to be about right, or maybe a bit more. When I was installing them #6 was the only one that I actually had to use a rachet on, it wasn't too hard to put in but not nearly as bad as it is now. 4. As for burning coolant. Wouldn't that show up in the exhaust and in the coolant (as in exhuast gasses in the coolant, running hot etc.). Thanks again Jan

Hey mates I need to replace the outer hatch seals on my Z. What type (three piece or one piece) and where would be the best place to get them? Mine are in terrible shape and leak quite badly. Thanks Jan

Lads and Lassies I've been experiencing a random issue when starting the Z in which it will miss on one cylinder or run on 5 for a few minutes. My first thought is ignition. The cap and rotor don't look to bad - though I think I'll replace them anyway here in the future as they're dirt cheap. This morning I went to pull the plugs to see the condition. One though five came out perfeclty simple, four had some pretty narly carbon build up on it (which was red, not sure why). When I got to six it was very difficult to pull out. I'm using basically a screw driver as I usually just finger tighten the plugs and then do about a quarter turn. Number six though just isn't budging, so I stopped. I haven't gone and pulled my rachet set yet as I have a few questions. 1. I used antisieze on all the plugs as in the past I've had issue where they've become very stuck. But is it possilbe I cross treaded the number six spark plug hole? 2. What are the chances that the plug will break, the threaded bit anyway) inside the head. I've seen it happen on an old toyota but that plug was rather rusted in there. 3. Can I retap the head with a 14mm tap to "fix" the treads or is this one of those cases where a machine shop needs to do some work on it? Thanks mates Jan

Chas Thanks for all the information. Yes what I mean is when the clutch is engaged in neutral - as in the clutch pedal is released (not being pressed what so ever) and not being touched, the trans makes said noise. When I press the clutch down - disengage said clutch - the noise goes away (though my terminology maybe wrong but I always assume engaged is when the pedal is not being pressed). I brought that up as my brother's 620 (soon to be mine) had the same issue. When we pulled the transmission off (five speed update) and did a clutch the old T.O bearing was extremely hard to turn by hand. Thanks again Jan

Chas Thanks for the help. There is literally no play in the pin inside the bushings. I used to wrong sized diameter and had to take off 0.020" to make the pin fit. I used a mallet to get it in all the way on the car so there isn't any play - or very very little. Could it at all be clutch (or related bits in that area) related. I only ask as when the car is in neutral it makes a fairly noticable noise. I think its the throwout bearing - as this is the same noise my brother's 620 had before we swapped the clutch - but it could be something transmission related, it is well over 30 years old. The other thing I noticed is with the shifter out there was some fluid at the top of the trans, where the little circular bit on the shifter goes. When I drove it with everything off - to inspect the trans while I drove - I didn't notice any of it pouring in there, but there was definitely some in there. (it also looked fairly old). Thanks mate Jan

Chas Interestingly enough my transmission doesn't leak, or doesn't leak enough for it to leave any noticeable marks on areas where I park for extended periods of time. Last year - about mid November - I had the level check as I had a suspision it maybe low (seemed oddly warm after drives, I have a post on here about it, it would sit at about 160ish temp wise) and the fluid was exactly where it should be, maybe even a tad bit overfilled. (I use Redline mt-90). As for my issue, I do have a bit of an update. I drove to work this morning per usual. Other than a slight shifter vibration in 1st and 3rd the noise seems to have gone away, or at least become very quiet where it can't be heard. (I do have a failry loud exhaust ). Also want to point out when I was reassembling the shifter the little cover that holds the shifter seal (the large black thing around the shifter on the floorboard THIS.) one of the bolts refused to seat, it would tighten but only a few turns and then give way. Thanks again mates Jan

Wow didn't realize the gramatical mistake there. by horizontal I clearly meant vertical. If I grab the driveshaft just ahead of the u joint and pull up there is a slight amount in the up and down way. I can also rotate it slightly - when the car is neutral. Thanks Jan

Hey mates So to fix my shifter vibration I pulled the shifter out to do the brass bushing replacement. To my amazement it was already done, but since I wasted all the time walking to the store I figured it'd do it again. Pulled the old brass bushings out and squeezed the new ones in. After some filing and help from a mallet everything was back in to place. Before I buttoned everything up I checked up on my driveshaft. I replaced the drive shaft back in 2009 with a new one from MSA - the one with greaseable ujoints. Question wise, what is acceptable for veritcal - up and down - movement of the driveshaft. There is a bit of play up and down. Otherwise everything seems well. Saldy the noise is still there. Thanks Jan Edited: I grammar good.

I'm actually not loosing any fluid. I check it weekly and its about the same level as it has been for a while, though I will replace all three anyway, its $40 total for the parts and labor is a few beers among friends.

Hey mates I've owned m Z since 2008, drive it pretty much everywhere - right now its my only car. Recently - for about three months or so - second gear is a pain to shift into when the car is warm. It doesn't grind but it takes some effort to actually get the transmission to shift into said gear. It only does this in second. The other issue it's begun recently is if I sit at a light with the clutch in - as say I'm trying to make a right - the clutch won't hold as in it will begin to engage into gear. I have to basically force it out of first - literally - redepress the clutch and then shift back into said gear. Hydraulics are newish - replaced them in 2011 (I keep rather awesome records) and they seem to be working fine. Cluch maybe, or is the pedal not at the right height? Any ideas would be awesome. Thanks Jan

Hey mates I as browsing the web this morning and found these this morning. Does anyone have experience with these gauges? http://www.autometer.com/3-3-8-dual-water-temp-100-250-volt-8-18-2657.html

Hey mates This past week my transmission has developed a highly annoying vibration that is heard through the shifter - most notably through the awesome wooden knob on the top. It only occurs in 1st, 3rd and 5th gear but not at all in 2nd or 4th. Any ideas? I am thinking its the shifter bushing but would like a group's opinon. Basic description. Imagine if you will a sound of wood vibrating....amplfy it slighly and add a slight metalic noise to it and bam. Thanks all Jan

Hey mates So both my rear hatch seals - the two rubber things that go around the rear hatch - are leaking. I've replaced both in the past but at the top it seems that both have come off and ripped to the point where if it rains water drips into the Z rather regularly. So here's two questions. 1. Does anyone know a good source to get these from? I remember somewhere that you could use a weather seal out of a kia or something, is this true? Secondly, is there some kind of magical trick to get these things to stick? Thanks Jan

Chuck I grabbed the tire from the top and it doesn't really budge. When I grab it at 9 and 3 it moved a bit and makes a clunking noise from the engie bay area (or basically straight ahead of the wheel. I'm going to take it to a shop this afternoon as I don't really feel safe driving it at this moment. Could it be a bad/loose rack bushing? Jan

Update. So this morning my car has a new annoying and rather terrifying symptom. At highway speeds - above 60 - the steering wheel will vibrate left and right but only sometimes. One moment the ride is nice and smooth and the next the wheel is vibrating and there is also a vibrating noise, which sounds like its in the steering wheel or shaft. Its bad enough that I feel kind of unsafe driving it on the freeway now. Zed. I had the car up in the air last night and pulled on the TC rod and inspected the busing. It looks fine but I could always be wrong. I'll update you guys when I know more. Thanks Jan

Hey mates While driving back home from work today I was forced to brake hard on the freeway (basically went from 75 to 30 in a rather short distance). When I reapplied the gas my car jerked, as if one of the wheels was loose. Confused I braked hard a few more time (making sure no one was near by) and long and behold the car does the same thing again. The best way I can explain this is the car literally jerks to the left when I reapply the gas. When I got home I pulled the front wheels off. The drivers side seems quite normal with no movement, but the passenger's side I can move the wheel a few inches in each direction (left and right) as if the rack has a LOT of play. Any one experience this before? I'm going to have it looked at this weekend but as for now I'd like some advice. Thanks Jan

Hey mate I do have one question. For my understanding the tensioner is not supposed to have ANY slack during the first install. Looking at your picture with the chain I can see there's a bit of room there. Was this the way you finally installed it? Am I wrong here guys? Thanks Jan

Hello all I drove a tad over 250 miles today for the holiday and I'm hearing an odd noise from the rear. What is the best way to check the rear bearings on these lovely cars? Should it leave the wheel on and just yank on the it or should I take the wheel and drum off and just move the hub itself. Any opinions would be lovely. Thanks Jan

You may have hit the nail on the head there. I went for a short (roughly 5 mile drive) this morning. Got the engine nice and warm and went through all the gears (minus 5th). When I got back I put the temp reader on the trans right after I got home (no cool down time). It read 145, which seems to be a normal temp here. Out of curiosity I measured the temp of my exhaust - 308 in change - measured right next to the trans. It was hotter at the down pipe - about 340. Could it be that the exhaust is just getting everything around hot? Thanks Jan

Hey mates This evening I was driving my buddy home from my place. Total drive time was about an hour mostly speed at or above 45 mph - so in 4th gear or higher. When I got home I noticed that my transmission tunnel was warm to the touch, not hot just warm on the passengers side - there's no carpet there at the moment. Curious I crawled under the car and placed my finger on the transmission and it was hot to the touch. Using my fancy laser temp reader I got a reading of 147 after about 15 minutes of cool down. Is this normal? I have noticed a small leak of oil - not sure what kind - that seems to be on the back up like socket wire of the transmission. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks Jan

Is there enough room there just to pull the studs out with all the brake hardware removed?

Black Gold Man Seriously, can I do this to all the studs? Can I remove the dust shield also? Thanks Jan