Pomorza

Found something interesting. Was going through all the wires to make sure that they were all connected. All is good except for the BCDD, which for some reason was unplugged. After some time I found that, not only is it not plugged in but the wire that goes to it is ripped out of the said housing. Could this cause any symptoms? "Same connectors for the CTS, cold start valve, air regulator, and thermotime switch. Have the f0rrest put together a 10-connector set for you, or order another set for a 4 cyl Jeep. I'd also suggest getting an extra connector to use for testing/debugging. " When you say ten connector set for you what exactly are we talking about here? Jan

Update Turned out the #3 injector and a few of the plug wires were not correctly connected to where they should be, the previous problem has been fixed. New problem, was driving a friend home and as I turned and went to accelerate the car did nothing. Pedal was nearly 75% depressed and it didn't respond to the acceleration. Did it once more and then seemed to clear up. Ideas? Jan

Hello all This past weekend I installed my new exhaust on the Z. I used the stock header and MSA premium exhaust. The install went well, took forever but well. When I got the Z back and running it feels like it looses a lot of power between 2500-3500 rpm. It has for-firing occasionally (ignition in the intake). From all this I want to say that the car is running lean? Has anyone had this issue when installing new exhaust? Would the fix be as easy as riching the mixture up a tad or is there more behind this that I don't know about? Thanks all Jan

Hello guys I know this question has been asked hundreds (if not thousands of time) but. I at the current moment my 280's exhaust is old, and well pretty much getting clogged. Atop this I have a leak at the manifold gasket (which I'm thinking is cause by not only age but by the clogged state of things.) So I'm planning on replacing my exhaust system. I'm debating getting a header and running 2.5" exhaust all the way back. But here's the $1M question. Which header to go with. I know a bunch of Z people here in Arizona and keep getting different views on which one to get. One side says the 6-1 headers are the way to go. The other end says the 3-2 ones are the ones to go with. They both make valid points but I'm getting lost. So would someone please advise which one to get and why? Thanks Jan

If your going to replace the pump do your self a big favor and get the studs also. They have a nasty tendency to break either when you're unscrewing them or when you're tightening them down. Also, take your time when you do it. Make sure everything is nice and flat when you reinstall it, don't want any leaking.

Sorry for the thread jack. Does anyone here run diesel oil in their Z's? I'm thinking about doing it as the old Z is about to roll over the 250k mark. Any reasons not to run it? Jan

Here's a bit of an odd question (not to hijack the post). But can this all be removed?

Thanks for the tech lesson there. I actually never knew the difference between the two. Those two Z's look awesome btw, and that bull bar (light bar) looks killer, even if it doesn't really fit 100%. Jan

Thanks guys, Dave, I would like to see a picture of that Z of yours, sounds like it might be interesting. Here's the only problem. I no longer have the original bumper on my Z, as well they weighted a ton and I got rid of em. I searched around today and found this does anyone know what lights those are as that's the bumper I have. Thanks Jan.

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting a set of fog (driving) lights for my 280z. Does anyone have a set of these, and where did you mount them? Thanks Jan

That's a sad thing to see, the head gasket blowing. The race was really intense to watch. How did you mount the camera there?

Hey guys I've posted this question before but couldn't find it anywhere. I need to pull the plastic covers (panels) off the interior of the Z. I pulled all the tabs but can't seem to get the thing off either side (rear ones). I don't want to force them as it'll end up breaking. Is there like a golden way of getting them off and on? Thanks greatly Jan

What Bill said. Call em up and schedule an appointment, they're awesome.

:beer:

I did my oil pan gasket a few months back when I did the front cover. I used a gasket and some ultra copper silicon just for good measure. I don't know what the heck those guys are talking about. If the gasket is there and the pan is torqued down correctly it should not leak period. What dealership did you go to? Jan

I'm just going to say this. My Z has, according to all my records (and the tach), 248k on her. I had it compression tested a week ago and its 150 across all six, (yes ALL six). I've used Mobile 5000 (10w 40) in the engine for over a year now(I've owned it for 1.5 years). Its oil guys, if you use the right kind (viscosity) and replace it on a regular basis (3k like I do) I don't see any reason for spending extra on fancy synthetics. Also I've advised by my machinest (who has been rebuilding engines for 40+ years) that using a can of Restore (the blue stuff) every third oil change isn't a bad idea either. That being said. If you race (autocross,ect) and keep the Z at the 5k+ for extensive periods of time then yes spending extra on motor oil is probably a great idea. Jan

This should help. It goes with the large groove (open section) down filled with grease. Jan

Hey Chad, As mentioned above try to narrow down the issue, as replacing something that isn't broken is a bit of a waste of time. Secondly, what part of the midwest do you live in? If you choose to tackle the job this will help you greatly. There are a few other sites. The factory service manual (FSM) can be downloaded from here if you don't already have it. While some of the repairs require special tools you can rent them at the local parts store (autozone ect.) for the day, usually for a small fee. In my opinion if you are good at tinkering you can more than likely do nearly any repair on a Z. Jan

Hey all I know I've asked this before I just can't seem to find it again. This afternoon while driving down I-10 up to Phoenix a large projectile of sorts (a rock probably) hit my window about six inches on on the driver's side. Made a hell of a crack that spider-webbed a few inches. Due to the fact that I already have two other cracks and the weather stripping is, well, no longer there to be honest, I've decided to replace the window. Two issues of sorts. My insurance covers windshield replacement (its free) should I go through them to have this done? Secondly, has anyone had any luck finding the windshield locally? I haven't tired calling around yet as it happened earlier today and I had to replace the fuel pump (that's another story). Thanks all Jan

Hey guys Are all L series motors (24,26,28) have the same timing cover on them? Mine has a leak on the water pump due to corrosion and I wish to replace it if possible. Jan

Well I'm fixing both the fuel pump and the CSV in the Z this weekend, so I'm taking your advice on this one. Jan

I understand this mate and I've been told numerous times that EFI doesn't get vapor lock. Well apparently I'm getting it, but I think it has to do more with leaky devices (fuel pump check valve, CSV) rather than heat. Is there any reason, other than price, that wrapping it would be a bad idea. I understand it doesn't need it but keeping anything cold in the engine bay is a good idea isn't it? Feel free to advise one way or the other. Jan

Hey guys For a number of years I've noticed that many people wrap their fuel rails in heat insulation type material. Two questions. 1. Does this help in any way? 2. I found this the other day and thought it might be interesting. I only ask as well the fuel rail gets rather hot after a nice long drive (to the touch that is) and to me insulating it wouldn't be a bad idea. Jan

Hey guys It has come time to replace the master and slave clutch cylinders on my Z, as one (or both possibly) are leaking. Do you guys have a preference or brands to avoid? I was going to get PBR as that is what my brake master is and I haven't had any issues with it. Thanks Jan

Well here's the bit of a problem. The cold start valve I have is a replacement from MSA and thus doesn't have the original markings. Has anyone bought there's from parts stores? Nissan dealer here no longer carries it. Jan