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St.stephen

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Everything posted by St.stephen

  1. St.stephen replied to texasz's topic in Electrical
    the ones that are in mdbrnady's gallery of the dash completely disassembled, the rockers cut out, etc. I thought if those were current, than swapping harnesses wouldn't be terribly and issue.
  2. St.stephen replied to texasz's topic in Electrical
    from the looks of the pics, it doesn't look like the car is ready to go anywhere anytime soon, and I don't think it could be more apart than it already is
  3. St.stephen replied to texasz's topic in Electrical
    why not just use the complete 73 harness?
  4. is there a heat shield between the carbs and exhaust that perhaps has come loose? there are several in the 280's which is more my specialty.
  5. Right on jmead! thanks for getting back to me.
  6. Hop on that dont make me finish my before you!!!!
  7. Jmead, can you please drop me an email regarding the status of the gasket kit. I haven;t heard from you since last friday. Thanks.
  8. If you are referring to the inner fender well, no there are no pre-fabbed parts that I am aware of and you will need to patch with sheetmetal which you can get at your local lowe's or home depot. If you're referring to the frame rail portion that lets say where the front crossmember bolts to, yes there are frame rail kits available from Zed findings and MSA.
  9. 2many, whats left on your car to still finish?
  10. welcome to the forum! Good luck with your car, and don't get any bright ideas of cramming a SBC into that engine compartment.
  11. I'm agreeing with SJcurtis with the blockage theory. Have you flow tested the injectors? remove the injectors leaving them attached to the rail. Place each injector in a small graduated cylindar (can be obtained from a photo store). Remove the plugs disconnect the battery lead to the coil crank engine for 60 seconds observe the flow of each injector if the differance in quantity is greater than 10% either clean or replace the injector.
  12. you can bring a uhaul out to jersey and take mine out the garage
  13. as long as it's not a flintstone mobile, you are safe for a first car providing you have time and space to tackle the resto.
  14. Let me know if you want an unmolested harness for behind there. I have a couple.
  15. St.stephen posted a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Any new progress since installing the brown bread?? I'm dying to see your car completed.
  16. hard to beleive this one looks cleaner than the one that posted about
  17. These look like a good deal! The underneath of the white one looks relatively clean. I really need to have a larger garage!
  18. I just nearly wet my pants!!!!
  19. 71 in northern NJ Went and checked this one out last night. Here are my comments the car listed at a buy it now price of 7399. There were some plus's on the car Completely documented mechanically since 1971. She was the original owner Gorgeous relatively unmolested interior. with the exception of a CB mount on the inside roof. Nice slotted mags Motor ran great, and was totally original, new starter New clutch master New mech fuel pump Original metal fan Minus's Hood and passenger Emblems missing and filled over. the owner tried to tell us that the car never came with a hood emblem from the factory Peel back the drivers side floor mat (no carpet) to reveal a pop riveted, painted floor repair that was rusting through (she tried to hide the rust repair however I managed to come across a repair bill from 1978 that said the car had MAJOR structural rust repair that is not economically feasilble to repair and recomended she should SELL. Another bill in 1981 revealed that the frame repair was inspected) passenger floor was intact but showing signs of corosion Hole underneath in drivers floor to reveal pop riveted patch front corner of trans tunnel/floor getting soft on the passenger side. drivers side floor support from frame rail cradle back about 6 inches.....HOLES.... FILLED WITH BONDO!!! Rear hatch lip, all filler rear wheel arch bubbling the rear rocker seam....filled in bottom of front fenders WELDED on. no bolts opening the passenger door revealed the weld seam where the quarter is tacked on....covered in filler battery well showing early signs of rusting through. carpet completely faded (contradicts claim of perfect interior) car wasn't driveable due to brake problems. Exhaust ready to go Waves all over the back quarter two extra tires with snow tires mounted The owner delcined and offer of 2500 which was a generous offer I thought.. This is just a reminder to the newbie's on the site..Bring a flashlight, set of car ramps, daylight, some play clothes and completely give your possible purchase a full not once, not twice, but three times over and bring a friend along especially for a car listed at this price. YOu may miss something that someone else would not This was a nice example of a 2000 weekend driver that could survive as is for 10 years considering it was kept indoors, out of moisture and kept clean. However being advertised as it was a "perfect car". not even close. Opening this car up would have certainly revealed some extensive hidden rust damage.
  20. Nice! I actually have and am going to be using the cowl induction fiberglass hood listed in the second picture!
  21. Also, there was a claimed series one car in western PA available as a parts car or resto project.
  22. 2many, would you be willing to part with your 75 horn pad for my 76 if it's in good shape???
  23. ahhh, thats nothing!!! If you like I can send a photo of the worst case scenario being my old parts car. You'll walk away feeling very good about the condition of your floors.
  24. There's no need to "fabricate" a clutch pedal mount. You need to look up in your pedal cluster and see if the bracket has the mount for the clutch pedal. if so, then hit the boneyards and grab the pedal assembly. I can't remember if the auto's were differant, or if the clutch pedal was simply eliminated from the auto pedal cluster. If they are differant, you need to get the whole pedal cluster from a manual. The whole through the firewall already exists for the clutch master cylindar and such. just knock out the rubber plug. so, you will need the following. Manual Trans flywheel Clutch master cylindar clutch slave cylindar all hoses and lines clutch kit (throwout bearing, pilot bushing, clutch disc, pressure plate) Have the flywheel resurfaced if need be pedal and or pedal cluster interior shift boot dust shield from the manual you may need the center console from a manual also Case of beer Extra set of hands probably a full weekend you may also need the starter out of the manual as well.
  25. Agreed, if that thing isn't swiss cheese underneath it would certainly be worth putting back together and given a second chance. I also agree that its a 75 or 76. It has the earlier non webbed intake and alot less "plumbing".
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