emccallum

This video may help you on the steering rack: As for the oil in the strut I have always used just plain motor oil.

Same here, actually the first time I have ever heard of using antifreeze. I have always added some oil, not for heat dissipation but because I have had inserts that were rusted so much I never got them removed. The shock companies instructions always suck. One set of instructions for every shock they have ever made! Once you tighten the gland nut make certain the insert has no vertical play.

This diagram illustrates the importance of float level adjustment. The float level determines the level of the fuel in the jet and thats really important in tuning. If SU would have given us a sight glass on the carb bowl we would have a lot less to argue about online 🤣

Could be bad gas from sitting.

Yep, my compression numbers were good but oil rings were bad. Fouled plugs and lots of smoke. You have to know that ignition is good and carbs arent too rich. Does it smoke?

I cant recall all of the tests you have done. FWIW, I had a z that was running poorly and after doing a bunch of stuff, it turned out that the dizzy shaft/bushing was worn and causing the point gap and rotor to float around. Easy enough to check for shaft play.

Beautiful!

Yes. Seem to be good quality. https://www.thezstore.com/product/3354/fiberglass-headlight-case-right-70-78-240z-260z-280z

I went with S30world tank as mine was is very rough condition. It was a perfect fit, one of the best aftermarket items I have purchased.

Looks incredibly straight! Keep posting those motivating pictures

Pretty impressive this hatch strut still works after 51 years. Just dont make those things like that anymore. 20230924_170332.mp4

I think that may be part of the problem. I can push down on the hood and the tension rods push it back up. Not enough adjustment on the mounting bolts to to compensate. I will have to look more closely to see if I can work around it.

I have been looking a several cars that sold online, including the 21k mile $300k on BAT. I am noticing that the hood is slightly elevated compared to the headlight on almost every car. I am putting on my body panels and having the same issue, although mine is a bit more pronounced. Maybe its normal to not be even? Here is an example from a BAT car that just sold:

Thanks! Some things have really turned out nice. Most of the good stuff will never get seen, like the underneath and the wiring harness. Hopefully I can get the bodywork adjusted to my liking. Aftermarket parts are tough.

I told the painter to fit the fiberglass (aftermarket ) headlight scoops. He didn't and they fit like crap. Best case only they will need to be redone. I wonder what people that have zero mechanical ability do with their free time? 🤣

Starting the slow process of reassembly. Here's some gas tank porn: I have some braided fuel hose I am going to install. Anyone have a picture of the correct routing of the small fuel return rubber hose. This just doesnt look right: Thanks!

I know it will turn out great and you will be proud of it. That is the real reason we do it. Like a lot of other hobbies, you shouldn't do a cost analysis. I throw all my receipts in a box for the next guy to add up!

I am getting ready to start putting the car together. Do you think it would be easier to install the hatch glass with the hatch on the car or on a table? I am thinking it would be easier with the hatch mounted on the car.

It was a raptor liner kit, then sprayed silver over it. I used it under the fenders and inside the doors. I had one or two small places that we missed with the Raptor liner. I touched them up with some regular undercoat. In those areas the silver did not react well and left a yellow tint. I guess it is was the oil in the undercoating. The raptor liner is made to be able to overcoat with color. Your car is looking great! Mine should be finished this week from paint. I am trying hard to keep up to your standards, but you are setting a really high bar!!

Thanks for sharing! I didn't know that was available.

Yeah, that looks a lot like my garage during disassembly!🤣 Does he wash his hands between every bolt removal? Looks like a nice car to be restoring.

Having some brake issues. Everything new and bled but still had poor pedal. Discovered a difference in the pushrod length between OEM master and aftermarket. I couldn't get the rod to adjust, so I added a shim. That gave me a good pedal, but very hard. I am going to need to rebuild/replace the booster. 1972 7" style booster. Does anyone have any experience with Harman classic brake service? I can get a full rebuild kit for $135 or send it to them and have them rebuild it for $245. Any other thoughts? I would prefer to keep the original style. Motorsport has an exchange service. Just wondering what others have done. Thanks.

Thanks guys. Fingers crossed. I still have a ton of work to do. Yarb, valve lash is set per specs. I don't know why it sounds so loud in the video. Much quieter in person.

I finally got the motor back and installed. Ran it for the first time today. Fingers crossed it seems ok, slight hint of smoke when revving, but nothing like before. I haven't had a chance to do any fine tuning. Just happy its back together and not creating a smoke screen. We replaced the rings with a new set (Hastings). Best he can figure is the oil rings were poor quality and weren't scraping the oil. He didn't like the way they felt or looked. I am really good at removing and installing the engine. Pro tips.... Leave engine mounts loose on motor. Have a good load leveler on the hoist. I rigged mine so I could use a 3/8 impact on it, instead of the handle. 20230611_205016.mp4

I think raptor liner and 3M body Shutz are basically the same. To me the advantage to Raptor is the kit comes with its own sprayer that hooks to an air line.