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I found this picture on the site from a post by @Mikes Z car back in 2016. This is for an early z but according to the parts diagram its the same for later cars. Know that I know what it looks like I should be able to bend one.....as wire bending is what I do for a living! One of the round tabs on my console was broken. I was able to drill it out and I tapped in a bolt about the same size with the head cut off. I think it was an m6x .8. Worked great.

If you know someone with a vapor blasting cabinet, they will clean up very nice. Check completed items on ebay to see what they sell for. Its getting hard to find decent anything for z cars!

On the center console (1972) I remember there being a spring that helps open and close this panel. Does anyone have a picture of the spring that I could use to make one? I am guessing it looks similar to the ones in the heater box. Thanks. Pict attached is just one from the web.

Body filler must be very expensive where he lives! 🤣

@Richie G , I am going to have to give the Gordon Glass stuff a try. Thanks for posting it.

I agree, I wouldn't use it on a primary large seal. The outer hatch seal (non oem) has a small stiff channel tbat fits over the metal lip. It's hard for me to be that precise with 3m. I used it for the inspection lid rubber piece too. As for the micro brushes, I just use them so I don't cut the bottle and chance having it dry up.

I would have gone with 37 :).

Not trying to pile on, but my experiences with both Koni and Bilstein over many years has been mixed. Their directions suck, hardware is usually universal and may or may not be needed or fit (mostly speaking of boots), and my last z was just too stiff for my liking with Bilstein and poly bushings. I went with KYB and stock bushings on my current build. Its obvious from the work you have done on this build that you know how to thread on a nut!

Maybe call Koni and plead your case but I wouldn't expect much from them. Its done, replace and move on. Dont let it ruin the day, as the car looks amazing so far!

For nice looking wiper system. I just cleaned mine up and greased it. I do remember having one fastener different! I thought the plater mixed them up and sourced a matching hex bolt! I only had one sleeve on the altenator. The strut insert usually has a place for an allen wrench at the top to hold the insert from turning. You need a special "cutout" socket to tighten as you hold the insert. I would be impressed if you actually stripped the threads on the insert as the nut is usually a softer metal and you may be seeing the remnants of the nut on the threads. Oil and chase it and try a new nut. At this point it isn't that much effort to remove the strut. Lately, I have become very good at doing stuff multiple times 🙂 This is what the sockets look like, just make sure the insert doesnt require some funky tool. They make a set that has all the various types for the insert too: https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Socket-Suspension-Spreader-Absorber/dp/B09QLZJWNF/ref=asc_df_B09QLZJWNF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647755312451&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16445937037883011191&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025566&hvtargid=pla-1966980073382&mcid=e98a1b3594b9387ebc33b5bd169ab619&th=1

In the process of putting my car back together. I have always been a big fan of 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. I picked up some of this stuff on amazon and really like it for places that the 3M may get messy. Small pieces like the outer hatch seal or where the window channel curves and wants to fold in. I use these little micro brushes and just hold it together for 20 seconds or so. It is cyanoacrylate, but has a better consistency than regular super glue and is black.

I have this alternator that I believe is original from a 2/71 my note says bad diodes. It has a little sleeve that I zip tied to it. If you are interested in the sleeve or the whole alternator let me know. I dont see me ever needing it.

impressive!

I may have run into that as well, adding to my confusion. I just remember taking them apart a couple of times before I got it right....I mean correct 🙂

Do you have NOS wheel cylinders for both sides? If not, I recall the only aftermarket ones have the inlet in a different place and you have to use another brake line. I "think" the wheel cylinders are the same but the hardware is L & R to allow the pads to adjust with the parking brake. I had to mix and match some old hardware with a new cylinder to get them right. It was a head scratcher at first because I didnt know, what I didnt know! Pretty sure the arms were labeled L&R.

I got 4 of these. Threads don't look great but may be able to chase them. There yours if you want them

I have bought a lot from Belmetric. I found the best way to search for JIS stuff is to type JIS into their searchbar. That brings them all up. I got a bunch of these that came in handy in lots of places: https://belmetric.com/m5-pan-phillips-sems-screw-flat-lock-washer-steel-yellow-zinc/

I may have some of these laying around or on my parts car if you need them. Just let me know.

Pretty sure the bolt does not have a number on it. If someone else doesnt post up, I will be working on my car Saturday and can pull that bolt and get you some measurements.

I bought my carpets earlier this year from Chester and herod. Pleased with the quality. I called Jim at 760 877 3403 to order. Edit: It was 8/22 when I bought mine! Time flies.

Just a thought....Are they balanced at driving rpms? Run it up to 2-3k rpms and check balance with a unisyn, maybe one is opening more than the other at speed.

Now that you seem to have good spark, you may want to consider backing up to the basics. Valve adjustment, timing, then mixture/balance. Not sure what fuel you have there, but our current 87 octane is garbage. My car runs way better on premium (non ethanol).

It probably would get even worse when it heats up. I too didn't pack much in it. I would think its mostly for corrosion control.

According to this video spacers go in before the spring. Start at 12:15. HTH

This video may help you on the steering rack: As for the oil in the strut I have always used just plain motor oil.