emccallum

I may end up getting one of the fenders and will post up how it fits. Their rear taillight panel was very good. Their complete pre-bent brake hardline kit was pre-bent just not in the right places. Thank goodness I still had my old lines to reference.

Just got an email from resurrected classics. They have repro fenders, hatch, etc in stock. No clue as to the quality, but I was unable to find a fender from anyone else in stock when I was looking. I ended up making one out of two. No affliation with the company, except I have bought stuff from them that was good quality. Just thought I would share in case someone else was looking for them.

Made some progress. Big thanks to @Patcon for the rottisserie. Really a great way to work. I had trouble lining up the hood/fender. I think the strut tower was tweaked in a previous accident. My plan is to paint underside, inside, and engine bay, then put it together enough to get it checked out on a frame machine. Not ideal I know, but it's the next right thing to do.

That is way more legible than what I have. Thank you for sharing it!

Wondering if anyone has a good frame dimension chart on the 240? I have the one out of the FSM, but its a bit hard to read. I read in an old post that there was a large tIFF file floating around but I haven't found it. Thanks. I am trying to make it easy on the frame guy as most people tell me their stuff doesn't go back that far.

Beautiful! body looks really nice, I feel for the painter, he better bring his A game. What is your plan for the undercoating? Are you going to paint over the black with body color or leave it? I am trying to decide how I want to address that.

Mine were pretty green and with some polish came back to life pretty nice. You could clean them as best as possible and then try to touch them up with a chrome pen.

Too much free time on the internet! I am sure you can understand 🙂 Cant find the link for the defroster right angle terminals, but I think it was one of the motorcycle folks. If someone really needs it, I can probably find it. Found it, flag terminal: http://www.cycleterminal.com/flag-terminals.html

Thats a good start, with plenty to learn on! Looks like you may need the rear defroster and fuel level sensor terminals. Fuel sender: https://www.repairconnector.com/brass-female-lock-type-tab-connector-5-pack/

I was going through some pictures on worker B website and thought of you.

This looks similar to what you have. Forced induction. You can see the plumbing running from the exhaust in front of the rad (intercooler) and all the way around to the carb.

Yes, its to replace the carbs with a single 4 barrel. Maybe the air cleaner would not clear the hood, so that is to route air to a remote air cleaner. I suggested a turbo because I think Cartech had a turbo set up back in the day for the z. May be some old pics somewhere online.

Maybe a 4 barrel turbo set up?

Found this going through a box when I started my restoration. I think I bought it as a spare many years ago when my wheel cylinder seized.

You paid too much 🤣🤣

I have never seen those license plate lamps, very cool! These were removed at the dealer when the customer wanted mags on his new z. The customer gave them to me in the early 80's when he was cleaning out his attic.

Just came across your thread. Beautiful work! What a great car you are going to have. I cant wait to see the continued progress.

This was my truck saturday morning heading to duck hunt.....in SC!! Just not right, it isnt supposed to get this cold for this long around here. Tons of broken pipes all over the upstate. Luckily very few issues for us. I feel for the families that left for the holiday and came home to a flooded house.

ZCLOCKS, thanks for insight. That would make sense. Do you repair these?

Charles, I would go crazy without the pictures. Text me your address and I will put them on a USB flash drive and mail them to you. Merry Christmas to you and the family!! ernest

RACEWR X, I really dont know.....they are pretty small. I went in heavy and soaked it down with brake parts cleaner. Blew it dry , put a tiny drop of very light oil on each staff bearing. iIt seems to be running well. I let it run all day, and it kept good time. Put it all back together. I got my dash back from just dashes. Pretty pleased with the job they did. I put it all together today. I replaced all the lights with LED's. Only three of the original bulbs were working. Cant say enough about the importance of taking a ton of pictures during disassembly. That really helps.

Brake parts cleaner 😁

Update.....clock stopped overnight. As soon as I tap the clock it started back up. Like a fancy Rolex, perpetual motion! With the clocks like mine, I think the issue is gunk in the mechanism. I think I now understand how they work. At first I thought the motor was too weak, although it was running removed. After looking at how it works, it seems gunk binds it up. I have a bag of old clocks to play with. Works until maybe the hour hand gear has to move and binds it.

You know you have a real mental disorder when you decide to take the time to tear into the 240 clock to try and get it running. What an intricate mechanism. I got it running. For how long, who knows. I will check it in the morning. Merry Christmas! Video evidence: 20221220_195857.mp4

You mentioned the engine has good compression. Did you do a comp test? If not you may want to just to see if #4 is off. Rich on just one cylinder seems to isolate the problem