pbarcher

I paid over $500 to have my '73 tank stripped and coated inside and out with the POR products, but that included repairing some small leaks. It was a very nasty and time consuming task and well worth what I paid. By that standard, $280 sounds very reasonable

Try Your Auto Trim Store for a great selection of materials. Search for a coupon first.

I have the MSA system on my 73, and originally thought that it needed a resonator because of an annoying resonance at about 2,000 rpm in fourth gear. I may still do that, but with the windows down I now rarely notice it. The exhaust really isn't that loud but the resonance can be annoying. I spent about 100 hours over the winter installing Dynamat on every interior surface, and that has quieted the car substantially. I'm not sure that the flex coupling is needed, but if you're going to have the resonator installed, the incremental cost is worth it.

The ammeter on my '73 swings wildly on startup and above idle it appears to be charging almost to the max, even with a fully charged battery. It didn't do this before I installed Dave's PLH, HLH and installed a 60 amp alternator with the ZXT plug. I also installed an Alpine PDX F4 100 watt/channel amp at the same time, so I don't know which mod may have affected the ammeter reading. The car runs fine. Should I be concerned about this?

I had the same problem with the vacuum advance on my '73 240Z. Since my engine is stock (except for the Pertronix and coil) I decided to have the original distributor built by Advanced Distributors in MN. They specialize in rebuilding and recurving distributors on collector vehicles, and I was very pleased with their work. The case was polished inside and out, and my car runs much better at low rpm. The cost was about $95, but the work took about three weeks. Highly recommended.

One of the pins (in the console) that allows the fuse box cover to pivot is broken on my 73. There was a post about repairing this about six months ago, but I can't find it. I recall that the recommended approach was to use a right angle drill to drill out the stub and replace it with ??? I can't find a suitable replacement. Suggestions? Thanks.

I paid $4,809 for my (then new) 1973 240Z at a dealership in Syracuse.

I insure my 73 with Hagerty, which is much less expensive than the carrier for my other two cars. Peter

I'm going to do this, but I have a question. I assume that I can buy either 1 or 2 guage wire, but which size is stock? Peter

I have a '73 too, and had the old braided lines and the evap tank removed by Auto Expectations in Sterling, VA. It made a big difference with the fumes that so many of us encounter. At the same time I had the gas tank reconditioned, using the POR-15 kit. We found that one of the gas line connections had a small leak, and repaired that along with plugging one of the old vents following Dogma420 suggestions. Tip - just because the outside of your tank looks pretty good, strip it anyway. We found rust under apparently good paint. With the evap tank and fuel filler out, it's easy to install Dynamat in that area. No problems running with a full tank.

I've been using the "short" K&N's (MSA p/n 11-4010 ) on my SU's for decades without horns, so I just ordered some from them (MSA 11-3014). According to their website they should work together, but I wonder if any of you have had experience with this combo.

I have the MSA kit with the loop pile in my 73. It's not quite as good as the original in terms of appearance, but it's OK. The backing is cheap and I'm going to replace it with something like Dynapad.

TBone028, Yes I'm a member, but will be out of town on 4/18. The club meets on Wednesday 4/14, so if you want to attend I can send details

You also might want to contact the club's treasurer, Hal Parry at 703.978.6145 or halparry@prodigy.net

Thanks for all your suggestions. However, on my car ('73) the distance between the seat support rails is about 7.25", which means that the amps you've suggested (Alpine MRP-F300, PDX-4.100, MRP F240 ) are too wide. Any other suggestions? I have 6 x 9 speakers in the tool boxes, facing the seat backs. Not a great location, but I cut the holes in the 70's so I have to live with it. That rules out placing the amp there. I have 5 1/4's at the back of the hatch facing forward and I'll replace those with Boston Acoustics or Polk with tweeters in the kick panels. These component systems require crossovers, which I intend to mount under the passenger seat. Any more advice that you can provide will be appreciated. Peter

I would like to mount a four or five channel amp under the driver's or passenger seat in my 73, perhaps a Sony XM4S Slim Line 4/3 or Alpine PDX-5. These are the smallest high quality amps that I can find, but with wires may still be too big. Have any of you mounted the amp under the seat? If so, can you give a model number or any other tips? Thanks. Peter

I'm the original owner of a 73 240Z, and have used Dynamat on most of the interior. I'd like to do the transmission tunnel and roof, but the vinyl is original and in perfect condition. Has anyone removed and replaced the vinyl successfully? How do you get the insulation on the inside of the door skins? There isn't much room! Peter

I'm the original owner of a silver 73. 36 years and four months.

Dave, I mailed the money order on Tuesday 11/17. Peter

I'll take one for my stock 73 Peter Barcher