smg1404

The spacing I did was only 1/8th" and was easy I found hardened washers that met the bill perfectly... My stopping power is now very good the brakes do not fade period.

I made my own last weekend. I used 3/4" steel tubing from the local Home Depot. All I had to do for the rear was flatten out the ends, and drill at the right place... The fronts requireed a little bending and welding, but still a very easy job... Cost me about $16.00 for the tubing.... Much cheaper than the store bought units. I can't see why they will not work as well.

I'm afraid that I got rather impatient, and pounded the hell out of mine when I took them off. I had to buy new ones. About 100.00 each.. Oh well, I wonder if a little heat would help?? I know the big hammer works, but it is a little expensive..

I did this conversion.... I used a slightly different caliper. I used the front from a '88 4runner 6 cly.. I had to add 1/8th inch spacers to make the caliper center with the disk.. the only other issue I had was I moved the mounting point on the strut for the break lines... They work great, I always have plenty of stopping power. I may add a proportioning valve some time, if I don't add rear disks first...

I get 14mpg at best.

But I have never seen one... What I did was to remove the outer part of the cable housing past the first carb.... and then run the inner through all three carbs. It seems to work fine. I will post a picture later to show what it looks like..

Here is how I connected my dam..

It's not fancy but I just extended the stock choke cable... On my last car I bought a universal choke cable. For the install I just loop it up near the front of the engine and back to the chokes.. If you get the idle set rich enough you may not need chokes. I just pump a few strokes, and it starts right up..

There are many opinions about this... I am using a Malory dual point distributer, and coil... Some recomend a dizzy unit from a late model Z... others like the MSD units.. ANy of them will probably improve the preformance of your ignition... If your car is stock, the stock ignition is OK as well.. If you are not having problems you may not need to do anything. I changed because I wanted a system without a vacume advance, that I could adjust.

I just looked at your pictures.... I cannot see anything that needs repair... Your car looks very clean..

There are many reasons.. Bondo tends to cause more rust eventually... Bondo is heavy, Bondo tends to crack and split with age. Bondo is not structural.

So much space... soooooo little content.... But I guess fun is valuable too.

The big problem with starting with sooo little, is that most people underestimate the amount of work needed to completely rebuild a car.. I did. If I had to start over again, I would get as nice of a car as I could afford. Most of the time the cars that someone else cleaned up can be bought for much less than the guy put into the car.. If possible look for a car that never got rusted to bits in the first place... The extra money you spend will be returned in saved time and greater value for a clean car..

Heck I live with that all the time.. My car is a blast, but the poor gas mileage, and other small but nagging issues sometimes make me think I'm out of my mind.. There are several sports cars that could get me into the around 30mpg range, and still be fun to own... A lotus comes to mind.. Your right the 944's are getting cheap also... The biggest problem there is I always had a grudge against those snobbish Porsche drivers.. I'm not sure I could handle being one. But yeah I know what you mean.. I usually cure it by going out and kicking up some hell with my Z... I usually feel better right away..

Most of the air dams do connect using the existing bolt holes.. I will post a closeup of the mounting for my air dam tonight... I don't have a picture showing any of the details yet, but I will take one. I used cariage bolts to connect mine. After the heads are painted they look pretty good. The most important part, (for me) is to build a floor right behind the dam to bridge the gap between the frame and the back of the air dam.. If you don't build it the air dam is just trim, not a functional air dam. I build these out of aluminum.

I think I have the solution, although not necessarily a cheap one... I have been looking into wheel adapters. They allow you to put nearly any wheel you on your car... The cost is about 180.00 for the complete package

I paid $94.00 each mounted balanced and out the door for mine... They are 205/60/14.. I got AVS ES100, this is a realtively new model (I think) So far I am very impressed. Especially with the wet traction. It's almost like there is no water on the raod, these tires really stick well. My Autocross class is E Street Prepared. I am currently trying to make sure that is the right class.

Drive that sucker.. Heck If I couldn't drive my car I would sell it for something that I could use... This is my daily driver, and fun car. I like to have fun all of the time.. Heck driving in the snow and ice is half the fun.. I can't believe it ..... @%#$$$@ sissy car owners. No offence intended, but Geeezzz!!!

If you are looking for more accelleration at 60mph, downshift, you are not properly using the gears in fourth..

I am running a stock L24 with a different set of carbs and headers.. I am getting back into autocrossing, and mostly just drive locally, (not much highway). So I don't need ton's of power to be happy. Still I feel I have a pretty quick ride.

I would be surprised if the Lex motor would not be rejected by your Z.... There is a long history of competition between Toyota products and Nissan products. Kind of like putting a Ford engine in a Chevy.. Why would any right thinking person do this???? Anyway , I also doubt the Lex motor will make more power than an RB engine.. Good luck anyway ,,, It's your money.

Well I have the tires on the car.. They are very responsive, and seem to be capable of generating quite a bit of turning force. I drove in today in some light rain, and the wet performance is better the the dry performance of the tires I had before these. I plan to autocross them on 11/3 so that will give a real good chance to push them hard. I will update again after I run the competition.

Does it turn??? Or just burn tires.

I have to agree with the statement that street racing is not a good idea.. Very dangerous, and illegal. Besides, unless the Chevelle is a sissy, and your Z is modified, you ain't never going to beat it drag racing... A good running late sixties Chevelle should mop the floor with you any day.. Get real. I can't imagine there is a part of the country that does not have a local drag strip, use it, not the streets... Imagine how bad for all concerned if you splatter a family, or any other innocent victom all over the road someday..

I just ordered a set of Yokohama AVS ES100 tires for my Z.... Has anyone had any experience with these tires... The reviews look very good. But a second opinion would be OK too.. Hope I didn't screw up.