IdahoKidd

Hey Austex, you probably found the same info on value that I found. When I had my Z appraised in late December, they went off of this site and put it in writing. Your certainly looked better than "average". Mine is only marginally better than average and the appraiser split the difference between average and excellent. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1974&m=1254&d=2212&c=7&vi=79044&z=83843&da=-1 It might be some leverage. And on the issue of leverage, my attorney friend said the way to get his resolved faster is persue the person that caused the accident instead of the insurance company. It is up to her to get it resolved and a disgruntled client carries more weight than a disgruntled 3rd party. By applying pressure to her, she will put pressure on her insurance company. He said if it were him, he'd call her every other day.

In my mind there is a connection between not having lights and the battery going dead. If I recall, and correct me Dave if I am wrong, but the amperage goes through the combi switch and on to the headlights. Those switches are famous for not working at times. I changed out one on my 77 because of no lights (they'd go out when dipped and might not return). On the fuse panel down by the passengers feet, there are fuses for each headlight and another for the interior lights. Look to see if these are blown. The headlight issue might be that simple. If not, the combi switch could be grounding out and draining the battery and giving you your voltage meter wavering. Again, be sure you have a connection from the battery ground to the engine and one from the battery to the firewall or from the firewall to the engine. It needs to be more than just a visual, loosen the fastener and retighten it. Clean it up shinny to rule out that issue. Be sure the cable is cleaned as well as the battery terminal.

How long have you had the car? Did this happen all of a sudden or were there other battery issues? Such as continual low or repeated dead battery. Did you make ANY other repairs under the hood or in the dash before this started happening? Check and recheck the battery cables and connections at both ends. Be sure you have a good ground to the engine and to the chasis. Just out of curiousity, do the lights come on when the car and switch are turned off? My initial thought is that you have a bad ground with the battery cable. Leonard

Man that sucks! There was another fellow here a month or so ago that had someone hit him and he had to settle for next to nothing on an insurance claim. I went out and had a shop do an appraisal on my 77. They went straight off the NADA classics book and put it in writing that on such and such date, the car was worth this much (in my case, $7800.00) I may never get that for it but I can take it to court and show that it was appraised by a licensed dealer and hopefully I'll have a chance. As a side bar, there is a 74 early 260 that just came up for sale here in northern Idaho. Haven't seen it but owner said it has been setting outside and not moved for 10 years, but it used to be his 'baby'.

Great info on the color wiring diagrams. Any chance someone has a link to a colored one for an 83zx turbo model. I am nearly complete with the conversion but have very different and very conflicting wiring information and no longer sure what to trust. Thanks! Leonard

Let us know if you get it running so the next guy that searches the archives might find an answer he needs.

White 77 280-find a new and loving home. Orange 72 240-finish the painting, find all new white interior, collect ooohs and awes Gray 77 280ZT-finish engine detailing, get interior, drive fast. The other 5, off to the bone yard. In theory, all of these will be done simultaniously. To bad reality is such a bummer!

Hey ajmforester, can you give a list of other suppliers you may have used? Competition is a good thing and choices are even a better thing.

Good info and thanks. I haven't yet learned all the places to buy and the stuff I did order was trivial stuff that really didn't matter all that much (ie, rubber throw out arm cover, etc) Is there a sticky (or whatever it might be called) that lists vendors and the general types of products they might sell? I know I have a couple of bookmarks such as Arizona Z Car, Motorsports, and I guess that is about it. I will be needing a complete white interior for example. Where do I start looking? Thanks! Leonard

So what is the deal with Black Dragon? I ordered a couple of things from them last night but almost rarely is there any conversation or reference here about them. Good place, not so good place, direct competitor to a prefered vendor? I am preparing 3 Z's at the same time and don't want to end up with a major heartache. Leonard

Good call Zed, the wiper motor was stuck and couldn't move. Gave the wipers a tug this afternoon out of frustration and they freed up. Problem solved.

If you do a straight up cost/benefit analysis, you'll find it is less expensive (out of pocket and timewise) to find a better shell to start with. This is a great exploration project and a priceless excercise, use the knowlegde and zest you've gained on these cars and used it on a different one. Keep in mind I am poor and very utilitarian.

It may have been. Nothing in the dash except for the headlights and the radio woke up. (which seems odd) The car had been parked since 1994. The wipers didn't work and I don't recall the switch position. I did determine the delay intensifier is on the passenger kick panel along with the rest of the relays but this noise is/was from high center of the dash. I just came in from the shop (5 AM) and either the battery is dead now or it has resolved itself as the cycling has stopped. I'll check later when it warms up to the mid 20's.

I am getting close to getting my 77zt going, down to some detail wiring. Here's the deal. When I install the fusible link (alternator and ignition circut) I get what sounds like a relay or a solenoid actuating sound from the upper middle of the dash at approximately 5 second intervals. Key on or off, doesn't matter. It will go on as long as I have the fusible link in place. I can't seem to locate it other than it seems to be above and behind the air vent. With just a test light at the fuse panel (I was then looking for something else), when the unit closes, it draws enough amperage to dim the test light, then when it releases, it brightens back up. I can't seem to figure out what it is and have been searching archives to no avail. Lots of info, non of it seems pertinent. It is an ac car if it matters. Any thoughts? Thanks, Leonard

My first experience of driving a Z was in 1980 taking my buddies 72 240 from Moscow Idaho to Joseph Oregon. One has to go through a little town called Anatone WA and then drive both sides of Rattlesnake grade. I hadn't been over that road since that day until today. Granted, I took the 500 SEC and not the 280, but man the flash backs! Rattlesnake grade drops 2000 feet in elevation, crosses the Grande Rhonde River and climbs 2000 feet back up. It is 22 miles of 25 mph seriously windy road that is a serious workout. What a riot! I had a ball. I guess the point of the post is I am certain there are other segments of road that offer a great challenge, great scenery, etc etc that others might recommend for their Z. It would be cool to somehow create a list of these by referrals from other Z members so when we travel, we could enjoy them ourselves. We all know the highway 1 on the west coast is awesome, but there are certainly more. Anybody recommend their favorite? Maybe with a scenic or historic description to go with it? Here's mine to start: From Lewiston Idaho/Clarkston WA, travel 5 or 6 miles up the Snake River to Asotin WA. Washington 129 climbs out of Asotin for 3 1/2 miles that sets the tone for the rest of the trip. 129 turns into Oregon 3 at the state line. It is a two lane rural blacktop that stays on top of the plateau for 20 miles and then drops down the Rattlesnake grade and crosses the Grand Rhonde River. From here it corkscrews back up the Oregon side following the Nez Perce Indian trail. (18 miles of exhilarating exercise) On top there is a scenic overlook of the canyon that Chief Joseph took trying to reach Canada evading the US army. At Enteriprise OR, some 5000 population, it is beautiful at the base of the Wallowa Mts, Joseph is 6 miles away and is the resting place of Chief Joseph, just a few hundred yards from Wallowa Lake. Simply a beautiful place! The distance from Lewiston to Enterprise is about 83 miles and takes about 2 hours at a reasonably brisk pace. Enterprise can be reached from LaGrande OR off of Interstate 84 as well. I have yet to take that section but am told that it too is an awesome drive. I plan to drive it this summer in the 77 280zt. FWIW

Give your uncle 20 bucks, go rent a tow dolly at uhaul for 35 and tow it back. Any further than 14 miles, I'd recommend a trailer. It's going to be a little while before you get the brakes and the fuel system working, and then I am guessing there will be other issues, lights, etc etc. Get it safely home and then go through each system completely (fuel, brakes, clutch, electric, etc) Then, hit the streets and raise hellLOL

If you don't get the rattle from the fuel pump, you may not be getting power to it. I'd probably start there, check the fusable links with a test light and wiggle them to insure contact. How long has it been since this car was driven last?

Hi Manny, There is a difference between pressure and volume. Typically, an engine doesn't need a high pressure, but volume is always good. The turbo pumps provide higher pressure because they are feeding the oil serviced turbo. The turbo oil pump that would be in a zx with an automatic transmission would put out the higher pressure and a higher volume because in addition to feeding the motor and the turbo, it also had to push it through the oil cooler and back to the pan. For an average l26, the turbo oil pump from a zx with an automatic might be considered overkill. On the otherhand, I have never heard of an engine fail because it had too much oil. I went with the turbo pump from the l28et with a manual as it was about 30 bucks or so cheaper and the one with the automatic and I was comfortable with the knowledge it was already a step up from a stock pump.

Hey meats, I am having a hard time making the connection between the fuel pump fuse blowing and fixing it by replacing the voltage regulator. I'm betting changing the regulator didn't do a thing, but that you replaced the fues with one for higher amperage (intentionally or unintentionally). It sounds like you have just move the symptom to somewhere else but have the same problem. Did the car ever work correctly since you have owned it? When you pull the fuse to keep it running, what fuse are you pulling?

I agree, probably no quick fix. The clutch and brakes are likely a matter of getting the system blead. There could be issues beyond that as well, wheel cylinders, slave, masters, etc. As for fuel, can you hear the pump run when you initially turn on the key? It should chatter for just a few seconds. How long has the car been setting? Tank could be gummed up too. Fuel filter could be plugged. Could be...... How far do you have to move the car? Depending on the urgency, it sounds like it is going on a car tailer.

Found the usual junk under the Z seat, but bought an old Volvo that the guy had for year and years but didn't do anything with it because he couldn't get a title for it. I bought it for parts and didn't care. Cleaned it out and found an envelope under the drivers seat, had the signed title with the date of some 20 years earlier. It is the 57 444K in my Avitar. One of the first 100 Volvo's legally imported to the states. I about crapped my pants!

I just researched this for my own car, a 280. Extra volume is a good thing, but not necessary. A pump from a zx turbo produces more pressure than a stock non turbo motor and a pump from a zx turbo with an automatic produces both more pressure and more volume as the automatic version has a built in oil cooler in the radiator. The general conclusion that I came up with is to use the turbo motor oil pump (manual trans) unless you have an auxilary oil cooler. Plus, it is cheaper. I haven't fired that motor yet so can't tell you what the gauge says, but it has to be better than what the old gauge read (about 5 lbs unless it was very cold). At least this is what I did. Leonard

I have a product in there now from Prestone and have a demo product to try next that is supposed to be awesome. Not big on Prestone stuff. I don't know the specifics on the new stuff, the service director for GM just spent 8 hours at school on it and came back pretty impressed. As for the 'stats, yes, I have checked all three on the stove and all three open when they are supposed to. Something is busted inside I am certain of it. But now that I have a little heat, I'm just going to drive it until it breaks. Only downside to that is that it won't break down in a "good spot", I'll be miles from home or some such thing. Leonard

Hello and welcome aboard! Where is Lefforge anyway?

just came back in from the shop. Using a laser digital thermometer, temp readings are: Thermostat housing 132 top of radiator 120 Midpoint of radiator through fan 96 Head temp above/at sparkplugs 162 Head temp at back of block 162 Upper heater hose at fire wall 91 Lower heater hose at fire wall 91 Temp at water temp sensor at block 132 Exhaust temp at collector 475 Temp at Y at water pump inlet 92 Temp gauge shows about 160. Has known good 190 thermostat. These were taken a couple of days ago. I did a back flush and got just a hint of rust out, nothing substantial. It has prestone flush chemical in it now and supposed to run for 6 hours. Took it to a semi retired datsun tech who hasn't work on Z's since the 70's and we couldn't come up with much. Thinking that perhaps there is a crack or a break in the water jacket behind the water pump that is allowing the water to move back and forth without going to the thermostat. Gonna put on a coat and run it till it breaks. I've already driven it about 4000 miles in the past year and it hasn't broke. It makes no sense at all.....