IdahoKidd

Combi switch is the headlight/wiper switch Dizzy is the distributor

Here's the link. It is over in the Richland/Pasco/Kennewick area of central Washington, known as the Tri-Cities. http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/1635390370.html

I might be wrong, and the fellow may be on a different forum. The wheel is $25 and to some one that was looking to complete the set and not know it was out there........"why didn't you tell me man?!" And I probably should have posted to the wheels forum, realized that right after I pushed the "post" button:rolleyes:

I am certain I recall a member looking for a wheel like this. It is posted in his signature. I can't remember/find who it is. If you know, let them know about this wheel. It is on craigslist. I don't know the seller, nor anything beyond that. Just trying to help a member out. Thanks, Leonard

There is a couple of weeks worth of reading on this subject at hybridz.org Not trying to chase you away by any means, just offering up a site that has more specific information. In general however, having done a host of conversions, none related to the Z, the auto is more driveable and is an easier install from a mechanical standpoint. It is all a matter of what you consider "driveable". With an auto, put it in drive and go. That is why grandma always had an automaticLOL

Starting to recover from shoulder surgery, not enough yet to tinker. Attached is a pic of the air cleaner box and of the spare tire well. The colors are very close, but just enough off to make one wonder if it was a painting error when looking at the finished car, thus the question about making them the same.

Well since I spoke up, PM sent. I'll take it. Thanks! Leonard

Well since you had forgotten about it, send it to me and continue to forget about itLOLLOLLOL I am sure I will pick one up someday........... maybe:disappoin

Thanks for the feedback! I am very aware I am not doing something new, just very new to me. When I spoke with my painter we discussed what my expectations of the finished product would be. He said "well detailed". Later I discovered the car was going to be largely disassemled and done 'right'. I am very pleased with what I have seen but now feel like I have to take care of all the other details to do it justice. So much for the budget. Fortunately the car really is rust free, and complete, which helps. I started out with a $900 car, will have $3000 into paint, $120 into body work, a projected $1000 into the interior, and $500 into tires, keeping the slotted mags and having them polished. And the argument about what color it is has long since began. It is orange to me in general terms. My daughter swears it is red. Dave, Ive always admired your car and I am sure you have stated somewhere, but what color is yours?

There is a guy on Hybridz that goes into great detail about using a box stock n54 block and head, putting a turbo on it and driving it like crazy. I used that site as a reference for doing my 280zt but I had a complete donor car, which helped immensely. Those guys are very rude at that site if you aren't a member of there clique, and I am not. There is also as much mis information as there is correct information, so after doing some searching there, do some more. More arrogance than anything on that site, one of the big reasons I like this one. 2cents and waiting on change

Slowly working on the 110 red/orange on my 240. The painter has come back with a polished valve cover with some color matching. I like it, just curious if others think it is too much. The engine block and air cleaner will be painted to match the car as well.

I have two 1977 411 yellow 280z' but no original documentation. Both have some parts of the SAP but not all. One has everything but the wheels in the ad and was bought by an older guy 25 years ago. He has since passed. His daughters husband told me the guy didn't like the color and the stickers so painted it white. At the time I didn't know anything about the ZZZAP but I do remember now playing the video game in high school. To clear up a little confusion, when I listed the car for sale I said it was the sunburst 411 yellow (as in the ZZZAP). I was suggesting that someone purchase it to make a clone as it was already the right color. It hasn't sold and I am considering the clone myself. Having two 411's in rural Idaho tells me the color wasn't all that rare. Could be coincidence too.

I can do one in about an hour and 10 minutes round trip. I do have a rotary lift though. Longest amount of time will be taking the drivline off the rear diff. Very slow. I use a short alignment dowel through the ujoint and a boxed end wrench and rotate the driveline instead of the wrench. I'd recommend having the flywheel surfaced which is going to take more time now but not nearly as much as doing it all again later. I found it easier to leave the shift lever in place and remove the shift knob but doing so requires the car being higher off the ground.

Could be damaged shift fork (bent or worn) could also be worn gear. A knowlegdable guy at a tranny shop should recognize symptoms and offer solutions. Previous experience with 4 speed chev was bent shift fork.

First off, I am house bound after surgery so I can't look on my own. I have a late 77 280 that has the lifted rear deck panels that are bolted to the floor. The rest of the interior in the back is marginal. I may be able to buy a beautiful 76 280 that was totaled in a front end collision. (Everyone walked away). Can I change out the hatch interior, plastic and all, with a complete donor car? Were there changes in the actual structure or was it all bolt in? I know I loose my spare tire, that is what makes me wonder if the floor pan will be significantly different. I'd like to buy this 76 before it goes to the bone yard. Damage is extensive from center of hood to door hinge, door back and rest of car is VERY nice. Anyone with recent salvage value knowledge for a totaled Z? Owner is willing to work with me. Thanks, Leonard

I'm betting the thinner oil is getting past a seal and you are loosing more of it than you might think. Plus, if you changed oil types at the last tune up, the new problem may now be showing up on the plugs. Pull one just to see if there is anything out of line.

Pull the plugs and have a look. It is either leaking out (oil slick or all over bottom of car) or it is burning it up. I have heard of slick 50 being sucked past the rings so it could be doing the same.

I think I will paint the cover to match the car. I think it being "off" just a shade will make it look awkward. And, I am betting that the vast majority of lookers won't know or care. I am keeping the l24 the original blue/green but the "driver motor", an l28, will have the block painted to match the car as well. I'm thinking it will contrast nice to the polished aluminum. I'm staying "correct" as far as visual physical parts, but adding some polish and shine for my own benefit. IF the budget holds out, it should be a really nice ride. My painter didn't like the surface rust on the dog legs so he changed them out. Probably didn't need to. Somewhere back in it's history, there was an extremely thick coating of undercoating applied to the bottom of the car. I mean 1/4 inch. We finally found a dime size piece of rust on the right front shock tower so all of you who claim there isn't a rust free 240, you win. Regardless, I am very tickled. I'll post a few pictures in my gallery as we go along. No need to put them out here really. Just another car. When it is finished or at major accomplishments, perhaps one or two. It was interesting to look at the 3 different red/orange, orange/red and orange colors (110, 905 and 918), they seem to be pretty close in general terms. I'd have thought they would have gone with a more definitive color, perhaps a brighter red, something to set it apart a little more.

I have read enough posts in the search function to become dillusional. The orange air cleaner box on my 10/71 appears to be the same orange as the 110 body color. Does anyone know if it indeed was that color? and will I be chastized if I paint it that color? Leonard

Zed, the longer rod will only work because there is some room in the slave for the piston to move back about a half inch. That half inch isn't being used right now and I would think I would gain that extra travel. I already have the piece made and will try it before dropping it all out. Nigel, thanks for the lead. His problem is the exact opposite of the problem I have but much of the info is very relivent. I don't know which collar came with which clutch so it may be that I will have to set down and do some math to find the correct one. The catch in all of this is that it was working well for a while. I am confident/certain it isn't in the hydraulics. I think I am going to order a complete and known matching set and start again once the doc says I can move that shoulder. I am going to have to take it all apart either way it looks like. And, I probably should follow my own advice to my clients as a contractor... "which is cheaper, doing it right the first time or doing it over again?"

$18 dollars. Maybe more with a better pictureLOL

Jack stands are for kids. I actually have a rotary lift in my garage;) The PITA part is that I don't have a right shoulder rotator cuff so lifting anything much above my knees isn't much fun. BTW, with a friend to help with the lifting, I can have the tranny in and out in less than an hour. (three Z's makes for lots of practice). It is waiting for an unsuspecting friend to show up that is the hassle. The slave moves that arm about an inch when the pedal is depressed. I'd have thought that was enough. I actually built a longer rod for the slave as I could push the piston in about 3/8 of an inch. I figured more throw would release the pressure plate. No change. As mentioned, changing the slave and the master didn't help either. It is the 225 clutch. Not sure why that would matter except for the amount of pressure on the disc I guess. I am pretty sure there is something amiss with the pressure plate. I can't drive the car after next thursday for 3 months nor can I fix it til then either (surgery on the shoulder). Had hoped to get to it tonight but no such luck.

Correct, I went from 4 to 5 speed. I definately had the wrong one in the first time as the clutch fork wouldn't even move. Took it right back out and changed the fork and bearing. Everything worked fine for a couple of months and then the cluctch sort of faded away making me think the master or the slave wasn't holding pressure or fully depressing the pressure plate. Now I am thinking the springs in the pressure plate are stronger than the "fingers" that leverage them open. (not a true finger pressure plate-not sure what to call the diaphram part). Changing out the clutch is a bit of a PITA so I am trying to be sure I haven't overlooked the obvious.

Recently I have installed a 5 speed into my 77 280z. At the time, I put in a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. The clutch and pressure plate were new in a plain brown sealed box but were at least 20 years old. (Came with the car with other "spare" parts.) Everything went well now for a couple of months. Recently it has become difficult to shift from neutral into gear and reverse seems to be the worst. The clucth isn't disengaging enough and the tranny wants to grind. Double clutching seems to help when rolling. So, I changed out the clutch master and the slave to be on the safe side. No change. There is about a full inch of movement on the clutch fork from the slave (measured at the slave). The car begins to move the instant the pedal comes off the floor. Much to close to the floor I believe. No adjustments I seem to make make any difference which leads me back to the pressure plate. It is a diaphram style. Is it likely the diaphram is collapsing instead of releasing the pressure on the clutch? I can't come to any other conclusion... BTW, there is NOT enough room under the pedal assembly for a 230 lb guy laying on his back with feet over the top of the back of the seat AND a teenage kitten that wants to play with the wiring harness while trying to get that pos pin and clip into the linkage. Without the newly relocated and imprisoned cat, it still took nearly an hour to get the pivot pin back in. I was approaching the max depth of the love for the car.........ugh!

Hey Koalia, I'll come put it in for free, you pay the airfare,