mikewags

In the end, I think it's at the seller's discretion when it comes to who they do business with. I think when it comes to doing business over the internet, one should always be careful and have the predisposition that unless the buyer will be meeting you in person; they have the potential of being scam-worthy.

My thoughts exactly. Then again some people don't care as long as they get what they want for the sale. I'm not quite sure about what kinds of records are kept with wire transfers and if they can ever be tracked back to the receiver (in case it turned out to be CC fraud, and it has to be paid back) Either way, if it were me; I would of probably suspected something. Wire transfers always seem to stir up some suspicion anyways.

Sure, but these are hubcaps on the actual wheels which are slotted mags right?

I simply posted this because I found it strange that someone would wire the funds over for a rusted Z without seeing it. It either leads me to believe its a scam, or just someone who thought they were getting a great deal, as to immediately purchase the car via wire transfer then proceed to ship the car across country---all without seeing a single photo of the car. I know there are no photos online that exist because it was one of the first things I asked the guy on the phone. I was actually going to go check it out today in person; if it hadn't sold. Also by what i've heard of in the past when it comes to scammers on craigslist; it just seemed to make sense.

So you are looking for the original Slotted Mags right?

Miami actually. The car was listed in the South Florida for sale area. http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/pts/916268833.html

I was simply a potential buyer of this "parts car" i found on craigslist. I asked the guy if he had the cash in hand from the wire transfer because it sounded like complete horseshit. According to him he had withdrew the funds wired to him that day, and seemed to be content with the deal. I asked what the guys name was who bought the car from him, he said he didn't know. I think its a scam, either a stolen identity used to pay for the car; or something of the likes.

So, i was planning to go see this car tomorrow...the guy calls me back. Someone wired him the $500 the car was going to sell for, and wants to ship it to CALI. There weren't even photos on the craigslist ad. This seems to happen often. My neighbor was selling a boat, and some guy just wired him the 3 grand he wanted for it, without seeing it in person. He said it was to be shipped overseas to Europe... Did anyone here buy this car? Strange...

I wouldn't have much use for the car itself, but I am interested in the tires + rims. I'll send you a pm and maybe we can work something out...

Can you post some photos?

I used to live in Eugene, and want to move back...

There is a 240z i will be going to see this weekend that is selling for dirt cheap. The owner says it has rust inside (floor rusting out) - although the engine and auto trans and just about everything else is good. I'm not sure of the year; but what should I look for? I would get it just to part it out to some of you guys on here (i have a 280 so i don't have a lot of use for some of the stuff in it) - If the interior is good; dash, etc - it would make for a great parts car deal. Any particular things I should look for? Anyone need parts I should keep my eye out for?

That's a beauty...

Yeah...but what models would you WANT to have? (i think you own all of the ones you listed)

I'd take a: 1. 510 2. Bluebird coupe (shown above) 3. Or any Diesel truck made by datsun to convert to Bio-Diesel. First 2 get expensive, and the 3rd seems hard to find lately.

I had to fix my passenger door handle (wasn't clipped correctly so you couldnt open the door from the outside) --- man that was a bitch! :hurt:

I bought a blue one off amazon made by "Budge" --- I wouldn't recommend it as a really high quality car cover. I don't think it's as waterproof as they make it out to be; although for the price, it might be worth it just for everyday protection (non-intense)...The cover is a little big for a Z by the way, but the excess could be tucked into the wheel wells; this slack is only a problem if there are high winds. They offer a long or lifetime warranty...i can't remember, i only know it was either like 10 years or lifetime...Anyways you mail it in at your cost, they replace it in like 2 - 3 months. Typical bullshit warranty you get with cheap products. The best bet would be to get a real waterproof cover that is made of a kind of vinyl or canvas (like a boat sail material)...If you are keeping your car covered in rough conditions, this is the best bet. Overall though, if you want to spend less than 50 bucks (in this case 36.99 + shipping) for a cover that will pretty much do the job in a moderate environment, and eventually be thrown out after a year or two; this is the one for you. http://www.amazon.com/100%25-Waterproof-Car-Cover-Fits/dp/B0011Z98Q0/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1226423507&sr=8-2

I don't have a dash cover, and I have big hands (i'm 6'3) ... I might take the drivers seat out when I do this, i have to get my seat cover installed on it anyways.

ugh...this all sounds like a royal pain. I figured maybe i'd be able to reach up into the dash and get this done, but apparently that won't be the case. Removing the dashboard is a pain in the arse, especially because of the forward bolts which hold it to the firewall. To remove those, you have to remove the windshield wipers/plate under them to unscrew those nuts. Then just removing the dash itself is a chore. I will probably leave this alone unless i can figure a way to do it w/o removal of the dash. Maybe i'll take a peak and reach under the dash this week. Does anyone have any diagrams that might help?

I need to replace my speedometer dash bulb, although i can't seem to find any information on doing this in the FSM. I also cannot find any relevant information on the boards on how to replace the bulb without ripping the dashboard out. I am not going to be taking the dash out again...i'd rather drive with no speedo-lights at night then go through that headache again. I also doubt that Nissan made a car that required dashboard removal to change a bulb. So that leads me to ask, "How do i change the speedometer bulb?" A step by step, pictures, or just any advice would be great. Information on the bulb size would also be appreciated. Thanks guys.

Hmm, depends on how much damage it has. It might not be worth the time... if you have any photos, feel free.

I'd steer clear just because of how it looks... (ugly little sucker)

You're probably keeping the air dam, but if not - i'll gladly take that. (figured i'd give it a shot) Thanks.

Sweet.

After work I was able to start the car fine and drive home. Upon getting home, the car went back to its no-start state. This problem is truly intermittent, and time away will tend to fix it. Anyways... Me and my friend set out to fix this. He's a good mechanic with a pretty solid knowledge of electrical... 1. Starter was tested, it's fine. 2. Tested voltage from battery to starter. That is fine as well, full 12 volts. 3. Tested the ignition wire with light - It was functioning correctly. Upon testing the ignition wire with the multimeter, it was once at 12 - then dropped to 9. The current wasn't consistently strong enough . The end of the ignition wire was corroded so we snipped it off and replaced it. That didn't help much. The quick fix: Relay was hooked up to the ignition wire and battery. Ignition wire will send the weaker current to the RELAY, which will then open up the full 12 v from the battery to the starter. I will test this tomorrow when I go to work, and throughout the day to see if the weaker current was the real problem. From what i've gathered though, the ignition switch is fine (and that's a relief). We suspect the ignition wire itself is bad or has become internally corroded over the years. Opinions?