Richard McDonel

240... Tried priming, but it would only run as long as the primer fuel would allow. I ran a short length of hose from the pump into a container and twice spun the engine on the starter for a good 10 seconds, and not a drop came through. Based on that, it is logically the pump, but if I'm questioning it's because I haven't had a mechanical fuel pump fail on me since April 1968 ('57 Chev BelAir four-door hardtop, wedding night - story for another night)

Since first firing my rebuilt 2.4 engine back is September, I''ve probably run it for about 20 minutes. But now it won't start, and the problem seems to be that the new, Kyosadenki mechanical pump has stopped pumping. There is fuel to the filter side, but none comes out the carb side. Anyone know of any reason why a new pump would fail? I took if off the car and bench tested by pushing the lever while hold a thumb against the inlet. Sounds OK. Also, when I removed the pump, it appeared that some fuel may have back-flowed into the engine - likely oil change time. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. With respect to the carbs, both the SU book and the Haynes manual call for setting the float level by holding the top upside down and measuring the gap between the rim and the lever. But all the comments here seem to concentrate on measuring the fuel depth in the bowl. Any particular benefits one way or the other. Thanks

JLPurcell, Can you post a photo? Thanks, Richard McDonell

I have two "Z" hubcaps - see photo. I would be interested in buying two more to complete the set, thus maintaining the originality of my car. If I am unable to find a pair to buy, I would then offer these two for sale and join the mag-wheel masses. Any interest, either way?

Thank you Chuck. Appreciate the information. Wanna buy (or sell) some?

I am nearing the too-many-years completion of my bare bones 240Z restoration. There have been two donor cars involved, so I have quite a mash-up of parts, including two 14-inch hubcaps. A photo is attached. Can anyone tell me what series these are from? Also, would anyone have two more that they might be prepared to sell? Or alternatively, would anyone be prepared to offer me copious amounts of cash for these two? Many thanks,

Good looking car(s) Uli. Enjoy the ride!

Thanks for the replies folks. Guess I'm off to the Kia dealer tomorrow. I also have a brand new, still in the original packaging, set of MSA /Precision door weatherstrips. Good price too!

Regarding the door weatherstrip, numerous people have recommended KIA Sportage, but I notice a number also mention buying it used from a wrecker. So my question is, does this stuff fit better because it is KIA, or simply that it is used and has compressed over time? If I buy new from the dealer, will I have the same too-bulky problem that people are experiencing with the MSA / Precision product? Thanks,

Patcon, Thanks for replying. I read the material about how the window goes in front-down, and tried it repeatedly at angles ranging form near-horizontal to near-vertical, but there was always interference. With the frame out, it was much, much easier, and I highly recommend it. ps, for this back-yard amateur mechanic / career pencil-pusher, the body work stuff is proving much more perplexing that the engine, suspension and drive-train work.

Good evening All, A question and a thought First the question. I am installing new inner and outer seals on my 240Z quarter windows. I got the glass into the new inner seal, using a sealant as Humble in the How to Restore book recommends, but no way could I get the metal frame to reach around it. With great effort, I was at least 1/4 - probably more - short of getting the screw holes on the front part of the frame to reach those on the main piece. Thinking that perhaps the glass was binding in the rubber, I cleaned out the sealant and replaced it with light-weight grease. I still can't squeeze the two frame components together. I honest can't recall where I bought the rubber seals, I've been at the project for so long, but interestingly the part number on the package it came in is 80811 N4520, which is definitely not the number shown on the CarPartsManual site. The rubber seal seems to fit the glass exactly, but no way can I clamp the metal on to it. Anyone know what this part number represents? Now, something I figured out. The Humble Restore Your Z book (p 161), directs you to install the door sash / window frame into the door, and attach loosely, then install the window. The FSM doesn't say that, but shows the window going in or coming out, with the frame in place. I monkeyed with that for at least an hour, even putting tape on the door sill to protect it from the window frame hardware. No way was the glass going in. Finally I removed the frame, and the window dropped right in. And contrary to my fears, I had no trouble replacing the sash / frame. So, ignore the books and go window first, frame second.

ZtooZ Yep. Measurements of the outer cables (sheath) was done on the workbench, not routed on the car. Looks like we can't do business. Thanks for trying.

7tooZ Thanks for your offer. The two cables are 55 3/4 inches and 62 3/4. That leaves them about 2 1/2 inches short each. The ones I need will be at least 58 1/4" and 65 1/4". As mentioned I have concocted something that seems to work (for the moment) using bicycle cable and heat-shrink, but I would much prefer to have the original factory set-up. If those numbers match what you have, please let me know how much you need for them. Contact through this forum or albertaracers@yahoo.com Best regards

Stud, I'm glad it worked out for you, but my words of caution remain. Good luck with your 240 resto - it will be a challenge at times, but it sounds like you're experienced and well-equipped to deal with that. ps, You're the first person I've ever known or corresponded with who has eight (8) Studebakers.

You ask "What should you be concerned about in finding a decent car? First and foremost, see the car personally. The cost of a drive, or a quick flight will be peanuts compared to what you could lose by buying a car with hidden defects. I have the scar tissue to prove it. Long-distance, I bought an e-bay car from the rust belt. "Rust-free" said the ad. The photos didn't show any rust, but it's amazing what fiberglass, paint, and spray-on undercoat can hide. The second car, I found in the sun belt. It was for sale in an auto-repair shop. Apparently the car's owner had died, and the shop was selling to cover their bill. When I got there, the fellow asked me what I wanted to see, to which I replied "everything." After looking around for a few minutes and finding nothing that troubled me, I asked if I could see the underside. He put the car on the hoist, handed me a trouble light and said "take your time." I did, and I bought. Airfare, car rental and one night in a hotel, I probably spent $700-800, which is a minute fraction of what major repairs, particularly body rust, can cost. Hope you find what you're looking for! ps, I second Wheee!s recommendation with respect to zKar's Z for sale. Lovely customized / hot-rodded restoration. The guy who's selling it really knows his Z-car stuff.

To: Namerow, 7tooZ I really hope that this is my last "Duh" moment of the year. Yes, take away the tension and the spring pops right out! Easy. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Namerow, Thank you very much for this. Looks like I'll be going the spring route. I was not as clear as I should have been with respect to the idler wheel. It's not just the wheel that is missing, but the steel axle is also gone. Best regards,

I'm fortunate to have two driver's door window-lift mechanisms. The sad part is that each is missing a piece. One is missing the coiled spring, and the other is missing one of the little plastic idler wheels. A parts swap is logical, but I am unsure as to how to remove either one. As for the spring, has anyone removed that? How much tension is it under, and how far will it unwind if removed? Is there a tool for re-installing? With the idler wheel (I'm sure I'm using the wrong name, but if you've had one of these apart, you'll know what I'm talking about), can anyone suggest some way of removing it without destroying? Many thanks

I began this discussion back in August and received several replies. Somehow many have disappeared, so pleased don't feel insulted if I fail to acknowledge you. Your suggestions were greatly appreciated. In any case, my problem was having choke cables too short to allow full opening of the chokes. It turned out that I have 1972 or '73 cables, which are too short for my 1971-based car. Longer sets, new or used, are not readily available. Someone on the forum (sorry, I can't find the original replies) kindly suggested that I replace the stock cable with "music" wire, .055 diameter. So I went shopping and learned that music wire is not available at music stores (well is it for a guitar or a violin? they asked), but it is readily found at industrial supply shops (the guy at the front desk did not believe me, but when he asked his boss, he was told to "just look in the catalogue"). Presto, I had a roll of music wire. It wasn't too hard to bend it to fit the two-line Datsun setup, but the sheathing was still the stock length. For that I went to a bicycle shop and they kindly gave me a foot of outer bike cable. I installed all that, going 2 1/2 inches longer on each of the front and rear carbs, but every time I moved the choke lever, the bike sheathing would separate from the stock material - it didn't know how long it was supposed to be. What to do now? My own bright idea was to ensure that the bike and Datsun sheaths were butted up against each other, then slip over a length of electrical heat-shrink. Put a cigarette lighter to it, and wonder of wonders, it adhered to both types of sheathing. So far it works. Whether it's good for 100,000 miles, I don't know. But we'll find out. Would be interested in hearing how anyone else makes out with this. Thanks for everyone's help.

In my still-running '78 Mercedes 450 I use only ethanol-free - that's Shell Premium where I live. In my 240Z - which I just drove around the block last weekend for the first time ever, some restorations needing more time than others - I plan to use nothing but ethanol-free. Now if I were to drive either car in the winter I think I would would still run the good gas, but just add a small bottle of gas-line de-icer (methyl alcohol) every few tanks With respect to whether to winter-store the cars with full or empty tanks, I drain in the fall to get any rust-causing moisture out of the system, then fill it to the max with good gas and a bottle of fuel stabilizer. I guess I could drain the tank and leave it dry all winter, but I prefer to start and run the engine every month or so as weather permits. Now having said that, I profess no qualifications as a chemist and am only taking the word of others with respect to the efficacy of stabilizer. So far it hasn't caused me any grief.

7tooZ Bingo! This is not the car I started with, but is a relatively rust free beater I hauled up from Phoenix, Arizona, where the paint and upholstery had baked for decades.

7tooZ Thanks - I'll heed your advice and go with lighter stuff. But having said that, mine would seem to be one of those mysteries to be found in most close-to-half-century cars. I have no idea why someone would install this hyper-heavy grease (meant for use on railway couplers? I have no idea).

If I may pile in on this discussion, albeit slightly off topic. I am just in the process of reassembling the window mechanism, and as a couple of others have mentioned here that includes greasing the sash assembly. When mine came apart it had an extremely heavy grade of grease. This was stuff you didn't wipe off with a rag, but rather scraped and pried off. It was real grease, but nothing you could ever run through a grease gun. Is that kind of grease a factory installation that should be replaced with like, or is normal chassis grease OK?

With bits and pieces of three 240s laying around, I find myself building a 1971, but with only one choke cable on hand, that being apparently from a '72-'73. Too short. I would like to buy a good or restorable '70--'71 cable. Cash, or trade for mine if you like. Thanks

Joe, How much experience / practice at painting have you had? By following instructions, we back-yard restorers can assemble the engine, the suspension, and all that mechanical stuff, and if we get something wrong unfasten and reassemble, but painting, based on my limited experience, is very much a practiced art. Unless you have something less valuable than your 240Z - perhaps a friend's stock car - to practice on, I'd let the pros do the paint. Guaranteed, your first try will not turn out looking like those photos posted by Motorman7.