santamaus

I can't say I recall which way I spun it to loosen, but I'm pretty sure it's threaded the normal way. The trick is finding some way to lock the sprocket in place so you can put enough force through that bolt to loosen it up. I *do* remember working up a pretty solid sweat getting it off. Good luck! Chris

So... about the legality and emissions bit-- It seems that it is legal to do an engine swap as long as the engine polutes no more than the one you take out of the car. So, if I'm driving a '72 240--that's gonna be the grossest polluter of the bunch, right? Any RB (or turboed up L28 or bored L31 or something) engine is going to burn cleaner than the L24 I've got, right? So, shouldn't it be legal? And yes, since it's so old, it never has to be emission tested, but that's not really the point. Is it possible to get some sort of test for the engine you've dropped in that certifies that it passes the emissions for the year car you're driving, so that if anyone *did* have some issue with it, you could pull out the sheet, show that it was, in fact, a cleaner burning engine than stock, and drive off on your merry way? Thanks, Chris

er... I may be wrong, but a transition from red to blue is gonna be, well, purple... Chris

Just for fun?!? That one f'ing rocks! Yeah, mine's still brown... Chris

So what you really mean is that the technician is willing to pay the going rate. If not, you might have to insist. This is a prime example of why I hate to take my auto anything into someone else. It always seems to come back scratched, oily, or in some other way screwed up. You'd think people would take some pride in their work... Hope your day goes well! Chris

So---who's had paint applied on top of the POR 15? How well does the paint last? The manufacturer says you can paint over it, but I'd expect them to say that! Who has actually had real world experience? Does POR 15 sand at all? If I coat the entire metalwork of the car in it, can I expect to be able to sand the surface smooth and get a good, long lasting coat of paint on it? Or will the the paint bubble, chip, or otherwise turn to crap in short order? Obviously, total glossy smoothness in the engine bay, or under the carpet, underbody, or interior is not necessary, only nice, but the exterior is another story. So, what experience have you? Thanks, Chris

So, if I've got a mechanical distributor (no points) and the Crane PS40, should I not be using the balast resistor on an L26? If not, what's the wiring bypass? Thanks, Chris

To answer... I tried a search for "fan clutch" and didn't come up with any diagnostic posts. I want to find out if mine works or is trashed. There is exactly a 50/50 antifreeze mixture in there--and I live in a climate that freezes and bakes--NYC. The radiator is an original Z unit I believe, and I had it flushed and fixed probably within the last 700 miles. There is no shroud, and I tried to affix the electrical fan from motorsport, but it didn't clear the engine (specifically, the fan pulley). Is the one from Victoria British any slimmer? As stated previously, the car cools itself fine when it's actually moving, it's the stop and go stuff that gets the gauge climbing. So there's something about the fan at low speeds that's not working. I could go for a 4 row and a shroud, but I'd prefer to not overkill the situation if there's something simple I've missed. As for shrouds, are they all fiberglass? What about heat and melting? How much extra heat is shed using a vented 280z hood? Ceramic coated headers? --Chris

How do I tell if it's working or not? It's definitely not seized--how hot do I need the engine to get to make sure it engages? Currently, if I'm just sitting in traffic, or stop and go freeway stuff, the temp gauge gets to the hot side. Is it just heat from the exhaust manifold, or is the fan not doing its job? As soon as I'm up to a good speed, the car cools right down, so as long as there's air flowing through the radiator, the cooling system works fine. I've also gone to the the 160 degree thermostat. Thanks in advance, Chris

...for the replies. I already have the Magnecore wires (I think I got the 8mm ones..) and a higher output coil. I'm gonna grab some NGKs when I get a chance. Of course, when I wait for the weather to be above freezing, everything works almost immediately. Maybe I'm just impatiant, and the plugs aren't so tired after all. Thanks again, Chris

So, it came with NGKs and should stay with NGKs, but what about the iridium, or platinum, or anything else? I'm in NY, so I have temperature variations between below freezing in the winter to well above hot in the summer, and I have a higher output coil and some decent spark wires. Should I just stick the 6es in there, or upgrade to something else? Thanks in advance, Chris

heh... answered my own question I guess... (2400 cc/2 rev)(1 in/2.54 cm)^3(1 ft/ 12 in)^3(7000 rev/min)=296.6 cfm or.. displacement cc/8.090=cfm@7000rpm 321 cfm for a 260, 346 cfm for a 280, and--383 cfm for 3.1L! A link to rebello--with the page of their carb mods: http://www.rebelloracing.com/prod03.htm Have fun! Chris

Is there an easy calculation for this? (Displacement x rpm x 0.5?) Trying it now...

Sylvania makes an HID replacement kit (for 7" rounds). The lack of sufficient weatherproofing behind the headlights, combined with the shortness of the high voltage wires might make for a difficult time with the kit. I'm returning mine in favor of xenon bulbs instead, which allow the use of the stock wire harness (or at lease a similar wire and weatherstripping). Also, as far as high and low beam, the low beams are HID, the high beams are hallogens, and one side of the system's low beam. The wires are spliced into the stock wiring to the high beams, and the lows trip a relay to the higher voltage wiring, ballasts, etc.

Question-- The diagram makes it look like one of the reservoirs feeds the front brakes, and the other the rear. Is there some crossover that I've missed? Does it reside in the brake cylinder assembly itself? Thanks, Chris