lcord

Looking for the best new center console on the market. It’s to replace the console in my 1972 240z. It has a bracket that was put in about 18 years ago when Pierre worked on it. It’s different from the Bracket that’s now available that folks are using. I would prefer to have a console without a bracket if I could. I’m trying to decide between Vintage Dash, Motorsport Auto, ZcarDepot and Resurrected Classics. Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Larry

Thanks. I appreciate the information. This is good to know. I’ll talk to my mechanic as we work through these issues. Thanks again for your feedback.

I did the light flywheel on my 1995 300zxTT and I still don’t like how the clutch engages. I may consider doing that on the 240z Thanks

Thanks. Will do

Oops. Forgot to ask you. How do you know? I guess I’ll just leave my current differential as is, and just focus on the carb. Do you agree?

Good information. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

I’ll ask the mechanic to confirm if my 4 speed has the stock differential at the 3.364 ratio. If it’s at that ratio, I’ll consider go to the 3.70. Thanks again

You’re right. I’ll get the original parts working first before I do anything else. When I bought the car back in 2008, it was PierreZ that worked on it and got it running. Ever since then, I haven’t had the carbs or the distributor looked at. He probably just did a general tune up and left some power on the table. Haha Should I go ahead and go with the Pertronix if it’s easier to work on even though it won’t help with the performance?

It’s a 4 speed. I haven’t given it a tune up or had the distributor checked out yet. I will have to bring the car to a mechanic to do it for me. I was thinking about contacting Godzilla raceworks in Forth Worth a call and have them work on the car. Once they work on the carb and distributor and get that corrected would you think that doing any of the other upgrades mentioned above would be beneficial?

I have a 1972 Datsun 240Z with the completely stock L24 2.4-liter engine and original Hitachi round-top SU carburetors. I want to improve acceleration, especially from a stop, and make the throttle response more immediate and predictable. It’s always felt weak during acceleration. It seems I have to use the choke to accelerate even when the car is warmed up. I’m not looking to build a race car or pursue maximum horsepower. I want a responsive, enjoyable street car that remains reliable and retains its original appearance as much as possible. Some of the upgrades on my list would be carb rebuild & tune and changing needles, Pertronix ignition conversion, MSA 3-2-1 headers, change to an R180 differential with a 3.70 gear ratio. If you were starting with a completely stock 1972 240Z today, what would you do and what would you avoid? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience and advise. Larry

Thanks for the information. Appreciate it.

Thanks. I’ll check with the rebuilder.

I got it from this website https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

# part# model from to qty 1 ASSY-MASTER VAC 6INC 47210-E4600 7105 1 47210-E4601 7106 7108 1 47210-E8700 7109 7206 1 ASSY-MASTER VAC 7 1/ 47210-N3001 1 47210-N4300 7508 1

Thanks so much for everyone’s information. I’ll send it off to Power Brake Exchange. I was looking on the carpartsmanual.com website on the master vac for the 240z and it showed that the early 1972 240z had a 6 inch size master vac.

I went to the Harmon classic brake site as well as to the Power brake exchange website and there’s no mention of having a 6” kit. Any help would be appreciated.

Do you have a part number and manufacturers name?

Hello I have an early 1972 240z (5/72). It states that those stock brake boosters were 6” in diameter. I did a search for a 6” kit and didn’t find anyone that had them. Are they available out there or are they custom built on request and that’s the reason they don’t show up on the website. Thanks

Thanks so much. I’ll do that.

Thanks for your responses. I appreciate it. I’ll go ahead and get my booster replaced.

Doesn’t feel like I get any assist. If I start to break while I’m still in gear, I really have to push hard on the brake to slow down and take it out of gear or the car wants to surge forward.

I had a leak in the brake line on the rear reservoir on the master cylinder to the brake indicator assembly. A new master cylinder was installed months ago. Once I installed a new brake line with new fittings the leak was fixed. I refilled the reservoir and started the car up and pumped the brake to make sure nothing was leaking. At this point I didn’t bleed the brakes yet. Everything looked good and then all of a sudden I started to hear a hissing noise and a surge in the RPM’s. So now every time I push on the brake pedal, l get that surge of RPM’s. Seems odd that my brake booster would all of a sudden go bad. At this point I installed new vacuum hoses and a new check valve. I made sure the check valve was facing the right direction. I was hoping that would fix the problem. It didn’t. I did a vacuum check on the booster and it held. No leak. Do you think I need a new brake booster? Would bleeding the brakes fix everything or are these issues not related? My car is a 72 240z. Thanks

I had a brake line bolt that I couldn’t take off. I tried a heat gun and that didn’t work so I got my soldering tool and heated up the bolt with that and it worked.

View Advert Switch Brake Indicator Valve Looking to purchase a switch brake indicator valve for my May 1972 240z. Thanks Advertiser lcord Date 08/16/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240z