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Removing AC condenser


psenevir

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I am in the process of restoring my 280z and am new to this forum and Z's in general. My first goal is to get the engine out and have started removing and documenting many parts in the engine compartment. I've run into a hurdle and need some guidance. The AC condenser line bolts are stubborn and I cannot get them unscrewed to allow me to remove it. I've sprayed pb blaster and it's just stuck. Will it be okay for me to just cut the line? I see many cars that have been restored just have a radiator. Thanks in advance!17f6aab42ecdb63160a44f18e9a180ea.jpg0d7f2b502c8e7903c4555350bc44b939.jpg181d2373b48d8a8d832f534911a31515.jpg

 

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Heat can help sometimes. Of course a torch of some sort is usually the quickest but I’ve heard of people using a heat gun for the same. Guess a hair dryer could be used but may not get hot enough.

That’s if you’re are trying to save them. If not, hack em up.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Those small butane torches are good for applying heat in tight areas.

I don't have any experience with flare nut A/C fittings, but one thing you might need to put on your to-do list is to get new O-rings compatible with R-134a for the fittings (I think they are usually green colored) as I'm sure the ones in there now are way distorted and, if you apply heat to break the fittings loose, they will certainly be "toast." You will need them in three sizes: -6 for the fittings running from the condenser (radiator) bottom to the evaporator (in the cabin), which would also include the drier, -8 for the two fittings from the compressor to the condenser top, and -10 for the fittings from the cabin evaporator to the compressor. At least, that's how it should be.  Depending on who did the initial installation, your mileage may vary.

Edited by Seppi72
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