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m4xwellmurd3r

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Everything posted by m4xwellmurd3r

  1. the brakelight switch went out on my mom's civic many years ago. my dad duct taped a line lock switch to her shifter, and attached it to the brake light circuit, so when she pressed the button, the light would come on. maybe something like that could work.
  2. My 280z doesn't seem to have very bad fume problems. I can drive windows up, or windows down, and unless i pull the muffler off and just run the resonator, i get no fumes. my friend never complained about it, and she hates exhaust fumes. maybe i'm just lucky somehow o_o I never checked to see the condition of the hatch rubber, but it's probably the original rubber, even though it is still soft. and the only problem i do have, is the same as yours yor5150. if i put a full tank of gas in it, it smells of gas fumes for a little while, and then it goes away after a bit. I don't get exhaust fumes, just gas fumes after filling the tank.
  3. have you tried just unplugging the AFM (air flow meter) my 78 runs without, but runs like crap. do you have fuel? iirc, your car should kick the fuel pump on just with the movement of the flap.
  4. maybe an engine mount is bad? if one of those breaks, i'm sure you'd get a nice loud bang. I know my diff needs new mounts. If i drop the clutch into gear i get a nice thunk from the diff shifting. I know if you put a static load on it in gear, it SHOULD still shift. you won't get the bang, but you'll be able to see parts moving and such. It would be good to have a friend help ya with that. pop the hood open, put a GOOD set of wheel chucks in front of the wheels, and start loading it up to see if anything starts moving where it shouldn't.
  5. where was the gas leaking from. is it carbed of fuel injected?
  6. i've got an unused collapsable tire in my z. i doubt it's ever been used. the p/o said he had the charger for it at his house, but i never got around to getting it from him, so whatev.
  7. thanks for the link. I'll probably go with it if it stays low for a few more days (strapped on cash a bit since i replaced the injectors)
  8. the problem is FINDING one where i don't have to spend 200 bucks for a new or used one. i mean, if someone in my area had a spare they'd be willing to give up for pretty cheap or somethin i'd be more than happy to swap it out.
  9. it's in the shop right now, they found 2 leaky injectors so idecided to replace them all before the rest start going bad the afm on it works pretty well actually, it's just i don't have a good way of tuning the car with it (no o2 sensor with a guage.....) what kind of work in involved with swapping in the 240 afm? just plug and play type deal? (i'm going to search that tommorow XP
  10. nope, i don't have a way to test it T_T i think i might have it adjusted to rich, so it causes the tps to flood the car. i'm going to try leaning it out a bit and see if i can get it running correctly WITH the tps hooked up. here's the weird thing. at load it says it's richish (co% is 1.4, limit, 1.5) and the HC is down at 120ppm (limit 240-250ish) BUT the idle, says it's wicked lean and missfiring (hc is 1000ppm, co% is .24)
  11. that's the one that it had when i got it. im gonna guess the oem somehow died sometime over the years it runs fantastic as it is, i actually got the mixture right whenever i brought it to get it tested, but it failed cause it overheated and had nasty idle missfiring because of it.
  12. So i've been trying to get my 280z to pass emissions (last time tested, it was wicked low across the board, but the HC idle was through the roof due to it being lean i think (co% load was 1.4, co% idle was .27) i've been trying to get this afm adjusted (it's from an 80's MR2 ) and i've found that it runs WORSE when i have the tps hooked up, and way better with it unplugged. I think the afm is just adjusted to rich, and the full throttle position causes it to start flooding? is it possible to tune it and never use the tps? (btw the reason why it was so lean, was because the afm idle adjustment was set too lean since it was ment for a smaller car)
  13. ah, ok. thanks. I probably will take care of it once i can actually get my car registered. i need a new rad because i think mines pretty gummed up inside (engine probably could use a few runs of rad flush) last time i tested it, it was too lean, so the hc idle was through the roof, and everything else was super low thanks for the info
  14. I love zcarsource.com I bought a few things from them already and i've had nothing but a pleasant experience. speaking of door handles, how hard is it to take the lock assembly out of the door? there's a place down the street from me that can re-key the locks for 20 bucks a lock.
  15. my '78 needs a new exhaust, but only from the premuffler back. MSA has a 130 dollar kit for the cali cars with the catalitic converters, and it's a direct bolt on for those. I emailed them and they said it might work with some changes, but i was wondering if the length of the cat, vs the length of the premuffler, from flange to flange, is the same, and if the flange itself is the same. if it is, i think i'll buy the cat-back system they have for the 280's
  16. i'd use LOTS of pb blaster on the stuck ones. I used that stuff today to replace my master cylinder and take off a section of my exhaust. AWESOME stuff. as for the crap plugging your intake. it looks like the inside of a freakin radiator o_O
  17. I dunno. I'm only 5'9 and my head brushes the roof XP
  18. hah, your car isn't nearly as sunburnt as mine is. (also an az car) I agree though. AZ is perfect for finding rust free z's. i think even better than cali. a burnt out interior is merely a drop in the bucket compared to a rusted body. mine still has all the original undercoating AND fender liners (which is annoying because i can't pull the bumper without pulling off the liners)
  19. likewise. especially seeing how much legroom there is in my car hahaha!
  20. speaking of back seats of a volkswagon, mine didn't have one, but DID have the seat BOTTOM haha datsun, no bug, yes BUT what tops the bug, a karmannghia. THAT"S a small car.
  21. HAHAHAHA I googled my part number on my AFM it's a mid 80's MR2 AFM! HAHA no wonder why it ran bad! it's an afm for a 1.6 liter being pulled by a 2.8 liter! i'm tightening the flap up to basically recalibrate it for the bigger engine. oh, i didn't hit send. It's running BEAUTIFULLY after adjusting it. basically, it was so loose, that i could suck on it and it would go wide open (wow) i made it too tight though, so it's running REALLY lean (and overheated a bit) i'm going to back off the adjustment a bit, that should fix it. looks like my problem was because of a part for a little itty bitty engine, and not for the bigger 2.8 .
  22. so, it's getting awesome spark. i haven't checked my fpr yet (i'm going to buy a gauge tommorow) I did however, disconnect the afm boot from the throttle body a bit to let more are in, and less flow through the afm. idled great and reved good till it hit 3000 rpm, then it floods, so i lifted the afm more out of the boot while holding it at 3000, and what do ya know, it revved even further. bad afm a possibility? i know these have an a/f ratio screw, but there's a cap blocking the area that it would normally be. does this cap knock out of place? (and is it possible for the afm spring to wear out so much that the flap is now too weak?)
  23. i replaced the sparkplugs, it fired up, but it's spewin more black smoke than ever. the water temp sensor is perfect. what else causes a rich mixture like this? could my FPR be shot?
  24. i've heard of them ^^ BSR Bob Sharp Racing. I read up about it on Zhome.com
  25. i don't have anything to check it. it's been fine though. the reason why i think it's the plugs is the fact that after purging the fuel lines, disconnecting the lines, and spraying starter fluid into the intake, it STILL won't start up. when normally, it would fire up to about 1500 then die due to lack of fuel. fuel pressure should be ok. i've put 200 miles on it in the past few days without a single hiccup before this (which is why i think the plugs are shot) if i can find a gauge i'll hook it up just to double check the pressure. but at this point, ti's not firing on even starter fluid, when normally it would.
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