Weasel73240Z

Fix it. Seriously, there's lots of things that could be happening. Has it ever worked, is this a new thing? Is the heater core old or new? Does it leak at all? What temp. cap are you using? Have you checked all the connections behind the dash that operate the system? Has the car operating temp. changed at all? You won't get quality feedback if you don't take the time, and put in the effort, to write a detailed question.

If the shell is worth saving and he has a title for it, I may be interested before it goes to the crusher. I'm guessing by the pics it'll be pretty well rotted out, but if not, I'm in MA and would throw in a few bucks for whatever is left and the title.

If you're buying Ferraris for your kids, are you by chance looking to adopt a 40-year old? :laugh:

I drove the Z to my best friends sons 1st birthday party yesterday. I arrived at the hall at the same time as a bunch of other people. It took about 15 minutes for me to get into the place, as everyone kept coming up to me and commenting. They almost always start with "I haven't seen one of those in forever" or "My (fill in the blank) had one of those" or "I had one and never should've sold it" or, sometimes "What is it". The last one is usually from some kid under 20 who has never even heard the name Datsun. No doubt, we drive real head-turners.

There is a number stamped on the ID tag on the passenger side shock tower, inside the engine bay. It'll have the engine #, compare that to the number stamped on the block. The date of manufacture is on a tag on the drivers side door jamb. If that gone, the VIN will give you a pretty good idea of the year. As far as the misc. pieces that should have come with it, no idea how to help you there. The VIN #'s don't give you that kind of info, so you'd probably need the original bill of sale to find out exactly what it came with.

I agree with everything beandip said about logically approaching repairs. But I think you should be concerned if those compression figures are accurate. 60 psi is bad, and 90 - 105 isn't great either. Could indicate a warped head, or failed head gasket (best case). But that wouldn't cause the car to run at max rpm, i think that's probably carb/linkage related.

Lots of info here.... http://www2.zhome.com:81/

Lots of places, but I've found that this is one of the best for background info. http://www2.zhome.com:81/

I got my mount from Brad a few weeks ago, but I'm waiting for the snow to start flying (and the car coming off the road) until I put it in. I was wondering how I'd modify the crossmember, since I would't need the bottom mount anymore. Excellent pics Dave, thanks.

Yes, it is prone to fail, but if you can get your hands on an R/T mount, the problem is cured. Check out my post about broke diff. insulator from a few weeks ago for more info.

3- or 4-screw refers to the number of screws holding the domes in place. Whatever air cleaner you run, you should use the air horns that the original air cleaner came with. I'm gonna fabricate a new intake, using a K & N cone filter and aluminum tubing to an aluminum air cleaner I'm making this Winter. I'm cutting the air horns out of my OEM air cleaner to incorporate into the new design. The air horns "smooth out" the flow of air into the carbs. Better air flow = more power. Wow, my 420th post. Happy 420 everyone!

I got one from Roostmonkey (his name is Brad) a few weeks ago. He told me he only had 2 left, so maybe thats why you haven't heard back.

I understand that my perception may be skewed because I live in "The Peoples Republic of Massachusetts" where just about anything goes (thank God), but I still can't understand how the government can force you to move your car off of your property. Unless the property is so filled with crap that it resembles an unlicensed junk yard, and its a "general clean-up" notice. Are you sure you stepdad isn't fabricating this thing to get your car off of the property? I could see if the car were parked on a public street, but this is America (even Maryland...), isn't it?

One guess is that when you blew out the lines, you dislodged a big chuck of crap stuck in a line, or in the fuel pickup in the tank. But as long as said crap remains in the tank, it will likely clog again eventually. Might be time to inspect/refurbish the fuel tank. Just a guess.

Before pulling the heater core, make sure it isn't just the shut-off valve that's leaking. I though my heater core was bad because I saw water on the passenger floor, and I assumed the core leaked. After close inspection, it was the shut-off valve that was leaking, not the heater core. Replacing the shut-off valve took me about 20 minutes.

Or you could bring the engine up to #1 TDC on the compression stroke, and remove/re-install the distributor so that the rotor lines up properly at the #1. Why not fix it correctly rather than fudge it by moving plug wires around?

I have a 4.11 R180 w/ the 4 speed. It's great fun from 0 - 60, but it's bad in the highway (3,700 rpms at 65). I have a 5 speed thats going in (again) this Winter that should make the car more "highway driveable".

Aluminum heads are great until they get hot. If you're running the stock 74 head, you might want to look into one of the better flowing ones (larger valves) from the later Z years.

Sounds like it. Probably a crack in the head near a combustion chamber and oil galley.

Just picked up my mount from Brad. Excellent quality, but he only has 2 left. You can get his info on the hybridz link in this thread.

Actually talked to him today, yesterday was email. I'm going to pick one up at his shop tomorrow, I told him a few guys on here are interested, so I'll get a count and let you know what he has.

I talked to him yesterday, and he said he had a few around. Not sure how many "a few" are, but I can ask when I go pick mine up tomorrow.

Turns out Brads (the fabricator from the hybridZ link) shop is only about an hour from my house. Gonna go pick up one of those mounts in the next days or two. Thanks again.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I was thinking of trying to attach a rubber spacer, maybe a few of the soft plastic spreaders (for doing bodywork), onto the original arrestor strap. I was thinking I could rivet it through the bottom of the strap and that would make up for any stretch. g9m3c...thats a great looking mount you built. That might be at the top of Winter "to do" list.

I developed the dreaded "rear end clunk", while shifting into 1st and 2nd gear, about a month ago. I read enough on here to look at the rear diff insulator 1st, and sure enough, its was broken in 2 pieces. I have already ordered a new one from Courtesy, should be here in a few days. My question is, could my old arrestor strap have contributed to this, by allowing the nose of the diff too much movement? I'm not sure if that's even what the arrestor strap does, but I'm wondering if I should be replacing that at the same time? It looks fine, not broken, or even frayed, but I didn't know if they could stretch and contribute to the stress of the diff insulator. I would've just ordered it with the insulator, but couldn't find it any of my usual parts sources. Thanks.