TomoHawk

The pin that the spring arm thing rubs on (driver's side) to hold it open looks like it broke off. Can you just hammer out the remaining bit and insert a new one? I was thinking about threading the hole and screwing in a bolt. Thx.

Most newer cars have wiring installed for all the different options you can get- you just need to put in the switches & stuff. Does the 280Z have wiring in place so you can install some driving/fog lights?

I used to make custom wiring for street Rods, and I know what a PITA it is to do it. Right now, I'm real busy with a job, school, etc, so I don't want to spend all those hours duplicating something I could buy. It should solve a few things, too, like making the headlights brighter.

On my '78 280Z, the driver's side window squeegees are still slightly pliable (or at least i think so) and the pass. sides ones look & feel like they're made of aluminum! Not to mention the splits, too. Arren't they supposed to be flexible rubber things? I should plan on changing them, if so- keeps the water out.

By the way, My 280z is getting power steering too.

The front wheels were switched side-to-side to fix a problem with a pull to the right. Steering alignment couldn't fix the pull. I think the bounce was more pronounced after the switch. then I swapped in the new spare wheelwith no difference. I'm going to order a T/C rod bush kit from VB and lower control arm bushes. Anything else I should get? Come spring, the whole rear suspension gets overhaulled. Would worn sway bar bushings affect the bounce? I don't get any bounce/less bounce while on a slight turn. I looked at them a month ago, and I think they were the least bit loose, but didn't think about doing anything with them. I want to get the front stable so I can drive it occasionally, or to the barn for storage in Nov.

I think the wheel is bouncing. It's got a new tire (balanced) on there. 4 ZX rims are on the car. Also has new cartridges on the fronts, and the whole thing was (aligned)serviced last week, with no reports of loose anything, but the normal amount of play on the steering rack. The other 3 wheels are real nice and smooth.

Haynes book calls it a "radius rod," and doesn't discuss how to service it. Do you just unbolt it and replace the bushings, etc? I get front wheel bounce at ~32-37mph, which feels dangerous, and should be corrected. Can you do the same with the lower control arm bushings? I should do those while I'm in there.

I can stop in the 280Z, but I would like a firmer brake pedal feel. First pump goes in partway to start braking. Second pump is better, but thethird pump grabs right away. What things do you need to check?

Would like to know if one can buy all the wiring harnesses for the 280Z? I'm not sure if I have a need for any particular one, but I thought it would be nice to replace the one for the section I might have apart- engine, dash, interior, rear.

My switch is funny the way you need to move it up or down to get itto turn on. You also have to pull it back slightly, otherwise it won't engage, so you can let go. Does this mean it is worn down and must be replaced?

Chevy alternators need only 1 wire to hookup into your electrical system & have an internal voltage regulator. One of the engine swap guys could tell you how to hook it up. They come in different Amp sizes, but you'd need one that will fit physically, too. The only tough part would be to ge t the right mounting bracket.

I'm not really interested in the stock look. I already have different seats, rearview mirror, full-size tire in back, etc. All newer stuff making the car look nice and drive better. The stock stuff looks cheap and seems to break easily, compared to newer stuff. Some Internet research suggests the 300ZX and MAZDA 929 use the 3N71B transmission, so possibly the shifter would be compatible.

Are there any aftermarket shifters that will fit the 280Z? BTW, is there a designation for the 3-speed auto trans? Like Ford's C-3, C-5, or chevy turbo 350?

Is there an easy way to get it out, or do you have to take the whole door off?

Eclipse (90-95) will fit. higher seat level and thigh support. You need to modify the rear feet only. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?b=get_topic;f=8;t=000850

Is your turn signal switch kinda loose, or does it cklick in like the ones on newer cars? Mine works, but you gotta payt attention to how you move it, because it doesn't engage and stay there sometimes.

Spring in the drivers door, to hold it in position, is missing. Can I use any old spring, or do I need a door spring from a Z? Where would you get a door spring? Didn't see one in MSA, VB or Tweeks.

Actually, it's a defroster. It's supposed to melt the frost off, so if it's fogged up, you need to use a fan like your windshield uses.

I tried www.hybridz.com and I ended up at some community place. Is that right?

How much does the 2.8 litre I-6 weigh? I was thinking of a 302 swap with a C-5 or C-3? would you have to cut up the floor to fit the new trans? Only problem is neith er of those have over-drive.

I mentioned the Audi differential because it's supposed to be a limited-slip type. Would that Subaru unit be limited-slip? If it's for all-wheel drive, maybe it is.

Planning a purchase of a 280Z for a V-8 conversion, but I've heard that the R-180 won't hold up to the V-8, and the R-200 will? Is there an easy way to tell which cars would have the R-200 differential? Maybe I could graft on a diff from an AUDI QUATTRO?? ref: JTR v8 conversion book.