TomoHawk

All I get are (under par) older ladies who tell me they had one when they were younger. No guys yet. I pull up next to Mustangs Carmaros(that 'other' Z-car) and some corvettes, but I don't do the race thing. I'm too busy looking cool. It's really cool how you are at a light and you can (pretend) you got a clutch by putting the auto trans in gear and hitting the gas at just the right moment, then going through the turn/intersection in first gear... I try to keep it under 3500 RPM tho.

Do these electrical solenoids fail in the open position? There shouldn't be any reason to cut the wires off.

Sound reasoning, mate. If the vacuum bottle were missing, you'd probably have serious lag when changing the heaster functions. BTW, I have the "Fast Frog" vacuum diagram. Click here for Fast Frog HVAC diagram I understand what you mean by fan speed. For some reason, When you set the lever to a/C, the fan goes faster (on high speed), than the vent setting.. My diagram must be missing something critical. Unfortunately, it doesn't show the vacuum flow direction, or the arrows don't make sense. cheers

OK, thanks. I'm sure that a previous owner had the a/c pump & piping removed, but left the evaporator and servos for me to deal with. that evaporator will be a real bugger to get out without removing the whole dash. I ruled out the sawzall because the stroke was too long. My plan was to remove the solenoids, then run the vacuum hose either through the vacuum bottle, or straight to the heater. It was suggested earlier to keep the vacuum bottle to smooth out any pulsations, but maybe I could move that bottle inside or elsewhere ( to make room under the hood) and plump it accordingly. I appreciate your cooperation on this one. My ignorance as to the design and function of the vacuum solenoids alone made their function in the HVAC system unknown. I'll cut one to up see what's inside. I'm sure there will be others that will benefit from this discussion. Cheers!

Alternating Current? My car has no a/c, so that means I can remove those things.

I'm quite aware that all the heater functions are controlled by vacuum through the function lever. I'm not sure you know what my question was. Each "solenoid" has only one inlet and one outlet. No wires or anything else. This leads me to conclude that these are some kind of check valve, and could be removed or replacedwith a simpler inline check valve.

Yeah, too shiny- are those vacuum hoses going to the carbs from the firewall, over the tops?

In the 70s-80s, you could buy electric grid derfroster kits, just about anywhere. You just stick them on. I did a search for one last fall, and it was not easy, but I foundthis one: defroster kit.

I agree that you need vacuum to move the door/flaps, but that's controlled by the heater function lever, no? Still unsure what the servos do. Having a nice summer? It was 0 C here in midwest USA today.

The carbon cannister is really big. Like 6 inches diameter and 11 inches tall. No wires going to it, either.

I bought a florida car. The body was good, the frame clean and screws were easy to get out. The problem I have was that I think the heat caused all the rubber stuff like boots & bushings to dry out and go bad. Tires dry too, but those were worm out. also the dry envirnment caused the wiring to get dry and somewhat corrode the contacts.

ust to play the Devil's advocate, do you think we could put this proposal to a company or two to see how much they would charge? It might give you or anybody else interested an idea of how might to charge for such a thing. I would be interested in developing the jigs for this as I have some experience in making short wiring harnesses used in small airplanes. Only thing is we don't all live near enough to each other. Maybe that guy on TV (Matt Lesko?) could get us some gov't. money to meet somewhere for a month to do this? :cheeky:

I was thinking of the alternative to having a single person make them. IMO, a commercial company would be more able to make wiring harnesses in quantity, but would probably cost more than someone who does it for (fun)., either singly, or in quantity. It's your call on that.

If you can make such a nice drawing, do you think you could sent it to the Painless people, and they could make up a few? I think they could do just about the whole thing, but the connection to the engine ECU? You'd need to change the lighting connectors. There HAS to be a company out there that will make up a wiring harness to your specs, especially if you order so many units.

how can you tell if the cold start inector is leaking? Is it under pressure?

I just had a neat idea ( I think)-- I found my old aviation whiz wheel, and it made me think, "Wy can't you make a time-speed-distance whiz wheel you could use (or co-driver) while you are travelling down the road? Is there any software that allows you to print a whiz wheel thing, or would you have to draw it by hand? I haven't worked out details yet, but it involves matching time & distance for initial speed, then you adjust it to your odometer and timer while driving to get the new speed to go. the whiz wheel should be safer than using a calculator, meaning it should only take a sec or two to look at & adjust the wheel, then another sec or two to read it. I'm sure I could write a program for my notebook computer or PDA (*choke!*), then keep it on the seat (notebook) or velcro it to the dash (PDA). just a thought, and I'm full of it.

This might be a little off-topic, but do you think it would be possible to put the (leather) boot on the auto shifter? Not a nice looking shift plate. I think that all you would bee would be a ring of metal with clips or holes or something to grab the boot? thx

I figured that out when I was looking at the wiring diagram. Might also be in the haynes book, or even the JTR book.

When you lose all oil pressure, a pressure switch closes(opens?) and it turns off the e.c.u., stopping the engine.

I think you're right. The thermotime switch is part of the cold-start circuit, so it'll shoot some fuel in there when cold. So if it's not working right, you'll probably always have a "cold-engine situation." It's an easy DIY thing to fix a rich mixture problem. Other than that , it's probably something complicated.

I talked to a datsun hot-rodding guy in CA, (darryl reilly 408-988-8457) and he told me that if the thermotime switch isn't working right, you'll be running rich., so change that. Thermotime switch is near the thermostat. Look for a 19mmm nut thing. I think it's about $50

My local locksmith had plenty of key blanks, but they didn't say Dataun or anything on them (generic blanks). I see key blanks for ferrari's, etc. on eBay sometimes and you might try searching the Internet in general. Oh- if you have a picture of the letters/logo, you might consider laser engraving?

Sears sells a small combo kit of polish bars. Don't forget to use your mototool, to get the tight spots.

there should be a ground connection for each section; frontlights, engine, dash, interior, rear lights. One of my next things for my car is to add these. gema- I looked through my wiring Diagram ( pretty sure it's from Mitchels, got it in 1992, so I think it's correct) and everything electrical I've worked on so far is on there . And, on it, there is a BLACK wire going from the front to the back, with a spur for the engine & dash. Every ground wire from the gauges, lamps, etc. connects to it. After tracing for about an hour, I only found one (ring terminal symbol) between the starter symbol and the relays. This might not mean anything, but things on my wiring diagram are pretty much the same place on the car, front to back, left & right. Concerning your delemma, I suggest a test lamp, maybe a buzzer (radio Shack, 12V) and confirm the wires under the dash (brake light) first, then in the back. I did this when I spliced in a new lamp socket for the brake, to confirm wires were correctly marked and things worked as expected. Good luck if you chose to take on this mission. Secretary will disavow having any knowledge. This mess will self destruct...

I think that the original wiring system could be improved, but not by much. I have been looking for the grounding locations, but it seems that the only ground ( on my Miotchell's wiring diagram) is at or near the alternator. I believe this is why the wires all (corroded). No place for the oxidation charges to go to, easily. One the same note, the way the wiring goes from front to back, like for turn signals & parking lamps, makes debugging easier.