TomoHawk

Here is a new idea to improve the illumination and viewing of the gauges at night: What if you made a plate of thin, clear plastic using the metal one as a template, and put the gauge overlay on that? In theory, the light from behind should show through the face in addition to what reflects from the edges, and if you use a reverse color scheme (white marks & numbers on dark background) it should be easy to read.

So besides going to the JY, where can you get a commercially-made PWM that would work for the Zed? You can get PWMs very cheaply on eBay, but there is not enough details to tell if it'll work on a Zed.They are all for DC motors.

Does anyone want a lighting switch from a Ford Econoline van? It has switches to control parking lamps and headlamps, plus a rheostat all-in-one. It will double as an anchor too.

In that case you can use a DC motor PWM controller, which switches the +12V side. I suppose the ones on trucks are the same as what cars have, so there is not really a "Heavy-Duty" PWM dimmer?

Has anyone besides Cap'n O installed a PWM to control the illumination? The rheostat on the Zed is on the ground leg of the bulbs, but most PWMs typically control the battery + side of the power, so it would be good you have a PWM that will switch the grounds for the LEDs. Maybe auto manufacturers have taken that into account on newer cars, so we could just use one pf those, instead of rewiring the entire illumination system?

They either won't reply or reply negatively, like most other parts suppliers. That's because there isn't a PWM dimmer for the S30 listed in their catalog, or any catalog. Most people don't understand that you will have to re-engineer things to fit the S30, so they just say "it's not cost-effective" and recommend that you buy new parts from your vehicle's dealer. I think MSA has those "small bulbs" in their catalog, but if those small bulbs burn out. I would just replace it with an LED. You could probably fit a discrete LED into the socket somehow and solder it directly to the original wires. I think the best thing we can do is to have those who install LED bulbs to keep detailed records of the bulbs used, then agree on a common spec for a "kit," and then you might be able to get a supplier to provide something, possibly even a PWM unit that you would have to modify yourself to fit your car.

While I'm restocking on bulbs, is there a need for BA7 bulbs? I think there is just one someplace.

I was corresponding with the vendor of this 24 emitter LED bulb. The auction is for 2 bulbs with $2 shipping, and so I placed an order for 8 pair, and I got $2 shipping for the whole lot. I prefer these to the tower bulbs, because the top of the tower bulbs aren't even glued on! The whole top section will twist easily, and you need to twist it to get it to lock into place. The paddlewheel bulbs are a bit more robust, but you can twist them apart too if you try. BTW- this is how I get my LEDs installed into the sockets: I pull the GW wire away from the socket to retract the contact and clamp the wire with some hemostats. Then the bulb can be easily be removed and an LED bulb can be installed.

As an aside, I'm not going to modify my PWM unit to fit into the same spot as the rheostat, as Capn O did with his. Instead, I will cut the connector from the rheostat and attach it to the PWM, and glue the PWM to a small bracket that attaches to the rheostat screws, with the knob down, like the 240Z has. I won't have the knob visible, but you don't need to adjust it more than once a year, if at all, so hiding from view won't be a problem.

That's how I have my car set up right now, using the rheostat. I get the light to adjust from about 85% - 100% brightness, but I would leave it at full brightness, because the design of the gauges just doesn't allow enough light to reach the gauge face. On my '78, the ashtray lamp and A/T selector indicator lamp are also dimmable. I can't find the glovebox lamp on my wiring diagram. I think the connectors to the ashtray lamp (in the armrest) and the trans indicator lamp are still behind the radio somewhere and you could install an incandescent bulb to use for something (like footwell lighting) to add to the rheostat capability.

The indicator bulbs don't go through the rheostat. They are only part of the turn signal or headlamp circuits, which aren't dimmable. If they seem less bright it's because they are very small bulbs, as they should be. Only the gauge and heater panel bulbs can be adjusted ( and maybe the glovebox lamp?)

In stead of building a fancy extension for the PWM control to make it fit in like the old rheostat, I'm going to just remove the rheostat, and just attach the PWM to a little bracket on one of the rheostat screws, with the knob pointing down. It won't be visible, but you don't need to fool with it once it's set, so hiding it underneath will be fine. I won't have to run a wire all the way to the radio area either.

That's correct. Parts labeled 5050 and so on give you the size of the LED chip, and other labels like T11 give the bulb style, but there isn't much or any documentation. They vary from bayonet to screw-base to tube/festoon, flat panel, etc. It would be nice to know what they call the 'paddlewheel' bulbs we are discussing. BTW- if you're going to 'over-drive' your LEDs by changing the resistor, keep in mind that you are also decreasing its lifespan, so you may want to make some spares and have spare bulbs on-hand, even though you will not need them for a while.

How about this paddlewheel LED bulb, with 24 5050 (5x5mm) emmiters? Stick one of these in your heater panel! BA9S 2.5W white T11 Led 24 SMD 2835 Canbus Error Free W6W 5050 Lamps

I recently used this auction to restock my supply of paddlewheel LED bulbs. You only get 4, but hopefully you only pay shipping once for a larger quantity, so order 12 if you can. I suppose the tower bulbs are pretty much the same in terms of illumination, but I haven't tried them yet. I keep seeing reference t 5730 or 5050 SMD LED chips/emitters. I haven't found any information discussing the differences so you can make an informed decision when buying the bulbs.

YOU can still find them, but only in small quantities. Originally I bought a bag of 10, and now I can only find them on pairs, and some weird-looking tower designs.

That's correct. I had the thought that it probably doesn't need much, as if you used a saw to make a cut, then bend it right and weld over the cut.

I should then get to a talented muffler guy to take the thing off and adjust the bend to match.

Higuys, I noticed that there is a gap of about 3-5mm between the exhaust manifold flange and the flange of the tail pipe. It's not an even gap (wider on one end.) If the gap is expected, I thought it out to at least be constant. Is that going to be a serious problem? I could fill the gap with some high-temperature RTV sealer, or I could spend a bundle to get a better exhaust man re-work the exhaust (I was considering the Monza exhaust.) Isn't there a spherical joint there, and you only need to tighten it to get a better seal, or just get a proper (thicker) gasket?

It looks like the paddle-style bulbs I was putting in the gauges are not that popular; you can't find them on eBay. Currently you can find domed or tower style bulbs.

The white headlights blind me constantly. Either it's because of the color, or because the lamps are improperly used (the non-OEM HID "upgrades") or improperly aimed. Even fog lamps are obviously badly aimed; probably because people think they are some kind of auxiliary headlamps. I will need a new car soon, and I would pay to have the warm white lighting installed to restore the better vision, and depth-of-field. It's something we used to talk about in photography all the time- get rid of the white fluorescent lights for the natural colored stuff. TRUE colors can only be seen with natural colored light. If LED lighting is an advantage for you in your work, then it's one of those few situations where it does. I will keep on using my warm-white/incandescent lighting, torches, and house lights. Everyone in the house just can't stand the over-white stuff, and it makes the inside of the house look awful, compared to daylight. And I'll stick with this story.

The "warm white" color is supposed to mimic natural daylight, so that's probably why it's a better color for most people. IMHO, if you like the "hyper-white" it's because you choose to like it, and tolerate the loss of depth-of-field, loss of contrast, and headaches, from the over-bright lighting, due to all the advertisements telling you it's "better"; younger people will do that, assuming hyper "white" is somehow better, not knowing that natural daylight is the BEST illumination. You can't knock thousands of years of evolution to natural daylight, and in this kind of situation, technology isn't in your favor (referring to hyper-white light.) There may a situation for the white lighting, but this isn't it.

Oh? The majority of Chevrolet cars are blue, or at least it used to be.

The aviation people are still using red. So automakers would rather be stylish at the cost of our lives? What's the deal about having blue?

I agree with Cap'n O about not using the LED bulbs with the end-emitters for gauge illumination. The top- emitter ones ought to be fine for the indicator lamps, like high beam, & turn signals. I'm using what we call 'paddlewheel' bulbs which only have axial emitters. If you want to, you can remove yjre top chips from the full-tower bulbs, so you can reuse the same bulbs. I even considered painting over the little tick marks on the tachys (with a DayGlo pigment & clear paint mix) to help them get illuminated or glow, like new cars have, but that would be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on how good your painting skill is. I think the ultimate thing would be to get a plastic gauge face made with the tick marks and numbers etched so the light shows through, like the heater panel does. Maybe someone here has the skill & equipment to make such a gauge face- only the Speed tachy needs it, who cares about the revs?