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Everything posted by TomoHawk

  1. The Zed doesn't have the OBD data system
  2. Is there such a thing as a an ignition sensor/rev counter with a bluetooth output, so you can watch the Revs on a phone or computer? Or how bout just a coil or spark sensor with bluetooth? Some racing loggers can display the revs if you have OBD (which a Zed doesn't have) or a bluetooth SPP adapter.
  3. Yes. I made up a heavy shunt to the chassis and plugged it into the terminals for the high-beam switch, and AFAICT, there was no noticeable difference. I also tested the resistance across the switch, which also showed no or very little resistance. Then I got out my can of eOxit-100 and started cleaning all the terminals, plus the ones on the firewall junction block, just to make sure every terminal to the entire car was cleaned. I was looking for the wires that went to the headlamps. Then, I noted a large 6-terminal connector, like the one for the tail lamps, which had 10-gauge wires going to it, matching the color codes for the headlamps! I treated those terminals with DeOxit and turned on the headlights. It seemed brighter in the garage, but it was day, and not very dark, inside even with the door down. After I get the steering wheel on, I'll take it out at night and check it in the driveway (which is 250 feet long, and the door has lines that align nicely with the headlamps for aiming. I'll get you a photo of the connector. it seemed to be hiding behind the junction block, and I hadn't noticed it until now. I'm surprised that it's not mentioned in the FSM, but the Diagram is on page BE-16, and he connector ID is C-9 (highlighted by the red arrow in this graphic.) What I think is odd is that only some of the headlamp wires go though connector C-9 and others go through the smaller connectors in the junction block.
  4. You can colour the LED with a green marker, if you like the green colour.
  5. I don't use the rear defog grid and I always fasten my seat belts, so those two warning lamps aren't needed in my car. In stead, I've already re-purposed the defog switch for the spot lamps, and I don't know what you could do with the seat belts lamp- any ideas? Maybe something like an switched auxiliary 12V socket, a switched USB charging port, or a warning for the lock-up torque converter... A computer CPU-fan supercharger? ? And so, I'd like to re-label the blue defog lamp face to read "SPOT." Can you get clear plastic faces, or would it be easy to make them? then, you could use a label-maker with clear labels to put new wording on the lamps. You may even want to change the bulbs to LEDs.
  6. In stead of wiring it "permanently," as in the video, I'd suggest using a switch at that point, so if you think you will be using the high-beams, you can switch them on both on for short periods, or switching off the low-beam temporary ground for extended high-beam use.
  7. You should consider changing the rheostat to the electronic dimmer. You'll get better control and brighter lighting as a benefit. I've painted my gauges as well (very carefully, with a small, flat brush and gloss-white paint) but IMO, putting in LED bubs had a greater increase in lighting the face. Don't forget to paint the back of the outer casing of the plastic front cover. Anyway, to get the arms off, I twisted them slightly to free them, and they pulled off like those of a cheap quartz movement wall-clock. Then I pressed them back on as well. I considered painting the arms with a Day-Glo paint so they shine brighter, but I decided the illumination was enough, and I don't look at the clock at night anyway (while driving.)
  8. WE have been changing the filament bulbs to LEDs, and it increases the illumination that much more, plus changing the rheostat to an electronic dimmer control.
  9. That's what I did. It seemed to be 'rusted on" a bit, so I turned the arms slightly to break them free, and they came off. I just wish those little screws holding the rubberized bracket to the case would come off, so I could pull the clockworks out to paint the inside. I'll paint it anyway- very slowly!
  10. Those little sucker seem to be tight on there, not like they are on a cheap battery-powered wall clock:
  11. My switch has never been warm, but mine is fairly new. I think what you refer to is an older switch or from an early Zed. It's still not a good idea to have both low AND high beams on through that switch.
  12. Yes, I've seen that. It's st00pid. What he does is to ground the low-beam side of the headlamps, so they are on, regardless of whether you switch on the high-beams. It's not a repair, just a cheap fix that bypasses the high-beam switch and could overload the headlamp switch or fuse. I would only do that in an emergency situation.
  13. I was planning on making a simple wire to bypass the high beam switch, maybe with an inline toggle switch. Then if I need new one or a rebuild, I think Dave or ZcarSource can do that, probably for less than a 'new' one.
  14. I have a set of new gauge faces for my 1978 280Z, and I started with the clock, since it seems to be the simplest gauge. But, the arms don't want to come off easily, like the pointer for the speed meter will. Is there a trick to getting the clock arms off? IIRC, the speed meter and rev counter pointer will come off easily, and the other gauges (volts/fuel, and oil/water) have enough room under the pointers to slip the labels under.
  15. It doesn't seem right to ask 10-times what the part is normally worth a few years ago.
  16. On the 1978 280Z: I would like to clean the headlamp dimmer switch contacts. I think they are dirty or fouled, and the low headlamps aren't very bright. Maybe the ground connection from the switch needs improvement. Yes, I checked the voltages at the headlamp connectors, which are full battery voltage. I also cleaned the connections under the steering column, and most other terminals or connectors. Can you take off the turn signal switch from the steering column without removing the steering wheel? If I need to, I could get a new switch, but I have time over the winter to try cleaning it first.
  17. I don't see any reason why you couldn't make the bracket a two-part deal, like a clamshell, with one half keeping the ball captured. A glorified/modified washer with a few small screws would work. But after driving it for a while, it's nicer, having smoothed-out the carpet. The idle creeps a little with the heat, but it's not a problem. I think I'll add some Velcro to hold the carpet in place after the driving season ends. I was thinking of possibly getting a professional carpet-job, but with some diamond-pattern vinyl over the transmission tunnel. The current carpet was a cheap kit installed by an amateur. Goodwood revival racing live video! Sunday, Sep 7-9.
  18. Mine fell off too. It seems that if you take it off once, it doesn't stay on when you put it back on.
  19. I' like to hear your description of taking it apart. It seems to be welded together, unless there's a bolt on the back you don't see.
  20. Some carpeting is on my to-do list, but it's an easier job than finding OE parts that are affordable.
  21. Well, the idle seems to creep up (higher) a little with a warm engine, but it wasn't as bad as having the carpet holding the pedal. The warm engine col be creating a little air leak, which can be fixed, but the idle wasn't so high it makes things unsafe or requiring hard braking. I was wondering why there is a spherical-looking bearing on that belcrank bracket. I think it's to keep the throttle system from binding when the engine moves from torque effects, but an ordinary bearing shouldn't be a problem either, or any proficient driver.
  22. How did the throttle linkage connect? I don't think I would notice a difference if it leaked that little bit. I think an affordable OE fuel pump or a better AFM would be more important.
  23. BTW- Somene mentioned elsewhere that you could also use a Cressida or Ford Aspire throttle/AFM as well, if you need something to ponder after 17 beers..
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