Linkstar07

After doing some research on pertronix website, its looks almost, if not identical to one of their units. It has a pickup sensor and a round piece mounted to the dist shaft. Then there are two wires off the sensor that run to the engine bay wiring. Just looked at the sensor and it has a sticker reading 460-12 on it. Not sure if there is a way to test this. Sorry no pics, my camera is MIA. Hope this info helps.

There isnt anything on the side of the dist. The two wires from the dist go to the coil (-) and to a 12v source on the resistor (+). Is there a way to test the setup in the dist?

So if the sensor in the dist isnt working properly, then the signal to the coil may be blocked? I'm not sure what brand the EI is but I'll try to find out. It does have two wires coming off of it, though.

My 73 is driving me nuts. I dont have a spark from the plugs or coil. PO installed Elec Ign but I dont know how to wire it properly. I no longer have power to the + post of the coil so I ran a jumper of 12V and still nothing. tried another coil (not sure if its good) with no luck. I've been trying to follow my factory wiring diagram but it doesnt work too well with EI installed. There is still a resistor installed and it gets warm with the key in the run position with car not running. If anyone has the wiring diagram for wiring the EI that would be great. the dist has a red and a black wire from it. thanks

I now have no spark at all. My factory manual has no instructions to test the ignition switch. I have a mallory coil that I'm also unsure how to test. It has the spark plug post and two small threaded posts (+ and -) built in. I have power at the + coil post when the key is ON. If anyone knows how to test these I'd appreciate the info.

I checked the choke and it was indeed out of adjustment. The console lever moved the carb levers only a little. I adjusted that and got a good deal more range out of it. Still took a LONG time to start it. I checked for proper fuel flow at the carb inlet and got flow. I checked for a spark from the wire coming out of the coil to a ground and it would not fire while the key was in the start position. When I turned the key back to the run position, it would fire a few times. Not sure how the previous owner wired the electronic dist but I believe this to be my problem. I'm going to search how to wire it properly but any tips are still welcome.

I'll give the choke a try, Dave + Walter. Thanks.

I tried to start it this evening and it turned over fine but wouldnt start. After letting go of the key, the engine stopped rotating, as you would expect. but when I turned the key to the off position, the engine would rotate a few degrees afterwards with the sound of pressure from the pistons. weird. I also double checked my firing order: it was ok.

Thanks for the relieving heads up. Of course I wish there was a way to remedy this. I (like a good boy) performed a search on this before I asked and when I got no results, I became a bit worried.

The carbs are 3 bolt round tops. Replaced the wires a month ago. Plugs look to be in good shape. The dist has been upgraded to electronic by previous owner. I havent messed with the choke/jets that much. But I didnt adjust the choke before or after this started happening.

Is it normal for my wipers to make an extra stroke after I turn the switch to off? It makes a slow, loud, chattering(the motor, not the blade) stroke after I turn off my wipers or on its last stroke when using the windshield spray. The wipers work and sound fine otherwise.

As the title implies, I'm recently having trouble starting my car when its cold. It didn't have this problem at all until I performed a compression test and found the #6 cyl to be low at 90#. I found the intake valve wasnt shutting fully due to misadjusted rocker. Adjusted it and now the car takes about 30-45 seconds of cranking to start. If I pull out a spark plug and try to start it, it fires right up. I checked for a good spark and was a little weak so I cleaned all terminals and spark improved but no luck with the starting. I warmed the engine up and adjusted the valves hot and still did not help.(although it ran slightly smoother) I reset and adjusted the carbs with again no luck. It doesnt actually seem to fire until the ignition key is released either. It fires up no problem when engine is fairly warm. Timing is set at 10* initial and 34* total. Starter turns the engine over pretty quickly. I am not seeing the light here. Any suggestions welcome.

Thats what I set mine at and I run 87 octane no problem. I set my total timing to 34* and the initial ended up being 10*. You probably gained a couple ponies advancing it 10*. does it run any better?

I agree with Darbji, that 1st one would be sweet on a shirt. Great work by the way!

Beautiful shots. I love that color. Any of under the hood?

Pics! I'm so jealous, My originals give me a sore back. Any other tips off hand for the install?

How can this be done? Where can you buy a lock without keys? Only my worn out keys work in my ignition but only my fresh keys work in the glovebox lock. I'd buy an entire ignition lock with door, hatch and glovebox cylinders if I could find it.

I like the paint scheme. Blended nicely with the hood bulge. Are you gonna leave the airdam as is or paint it black or something?

Driver's got some skills! That was sweet.

Are these the two screws? I'll find out how my wipers are working now. thanks for the extra input.

It worked! It was the bushing on the left screw hole you circled in the pic u attached. I still have one more small bushing but everything works ok. Thanks for the help!

Thanks! I'll try that tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

I used that thread to rebuild my switch and I still cant find where they go. If you know which pic shows where they go I'd much appreciate it.

Post a pic. I pretty curious now.

Correction: I have working wipers because those are controlled by the 'wiper' fuse (duh). but when I press my windshield washer spray button, the wiper fuse blows. The acc fuse still turns my lights on and gets pretty warm. sorry for the confusion. Are the missing bushings causing the wiper fuse to blow? I cant find where they go from all the combo switch repair posts I've read.