HS30-H

Hi Victor, Sorry to hear that you are having problems......... I remember a while back you were asking for information on getting the Webers dialled in and jetted properly for your high altitude. Did you ever get the engine running correctly? I think I remember pointing out to you that a trip to a rolling-road dyno for a proper set-up was probably the best way for you to get near to the jetting that you need. If the dyno was down at a lower altitude than your normal driving environment then some compromise would have to be made - but a good technician would be able to give a pretty good estimate of what was needed if he knew the normal range of barometric pressure for your home area. I don't want to be devil's advocate here, but did you really satisfy yourself that the carbs were correctly assembled and had all the right parts inside? I seem to remember that they might have been something of an unknown quantity ( no? ). Your mention that pouring fuel directly into the float bowls will help the engine to start almost immediately is very strange. That would suggest to me that you have a very simple float-sticking or inlet valve-sticking problem that could be temperature-related. Indeed, as everyone else has suggested, it could also be related to a vapour-lock situation. I'm also wondering just how your plumbing is connected up. Are you still using the stock fuel rail and the return-feed to the tank? Are you running an electric pump, a mechanical pump, or both? As has been suggested, at least a proper heat-shield would help a great deal once you got the car working right. You can make a good one yourself out of ally sheet. I personally use header wrap and an ally heat shield, and I've never found that the header wrap caused me any problem - although the ambient temperatures here in the UK are nothing like those in America or Australia ( although curiously its 36 Degrees here in central London today! ). Any vapour lock or percolation problems that I ever suffer from are due to diff, transmission and engine heat transferring into the fuel line as it runs up the centre of the car. When I'm running at a normal speed ( anything other than a crawl in fact ) I find that the fuel runs up the line fast enough to avoid being too heated by the time it arrives in the actual engine bay. If I were to stop in traffic for a while I might find the engine starts to stumble and shows symptoms of running out of fuel. Greatest danger of vapour lock and percolation is when stopping for more fuel after a good run; I can get back in and start up but after just a few feet the engine can cut out dead. Quick twist of the key with no foot on the throttle and it clears instantly. This is evidence of vapour lock and fuel vapourisation / percolation in the carbs............. Its very frustrating to think that I might be able to diagnose your problem or at least make it a little better if I could only have it in front of me. Trying to diagnose this kind of thing over the web is notoriously difficult, and in the end you really could find a more simple problem is causing the same symptoms ( it could even be electrical! ). Sorry I can't be of more help, but I really would suggest that you might like to think through your plumbing and fuel feed / return just to eliminate any possibilities there. Above all, I don't want to see you chuck in the towel and damn the Webers as the instruments of the Devil. I've seen this happen too many times, when in fact it was incorrect installation / tuning / jetting / set-up / plumbing that was to blame. I know, I've been there and made all those mistakes myself........:cheeky: All the best, Alan T.