Everything posted by HS30-H
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Painted shell
The antenna hole is still there - its just got a bit of masking tape underneath it and it got a bit coloured when they buffed the paint out. This is still not quite true-to-reality pic of the colour in natural light..............
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What are these for?
Zedrally - This is indeed the factory-homologated type of roll-over bar that we are discussing. They were available to buy from Nissan in Japan ( through the Sports Option parts lists ) from early 1970 onwards. Steve ( Zvoiture ), they COULD be considered a true 'bolt-in' part if the brackets that fixed the two centre drops to the floor were simply bolted in with nuts and bolts - rather than the 'Works' style of brazing in more captives and the reinforcing plates to the floor at those two points. All you needed to do was drill through the floor at those points and put the bolts through. Doing them up properly would be a four-hand operation though. The reinforcing plates just sandwiched between the floor and the nuts or bolts from the underside of the car. I've spoken to friends in Japan about these captive nuts now, and they tell me that as far as they are aware the captive nuts in the shell are precisely for the purpose of mounting these cages. It was suggested in a previous post that they were originally jig or production line fixture mounts, and that the body may have been supported at these points as it went through some processes at the Factory. My friends tell me that the Z production line utilised cradle supports that went UNDER the body and supported it's weight from underneath. As far as they are concerned, the Z body was never supported or transported in any other way during the manufacturing process. That's the fresh info I have and I thought it worth posting here. If anybody has any better information or interesting theories then I'm all ears and eyes. Alan T.
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ZG Bodykits
Hi Gee, Do you mean the car in sjcurtis's pic? The period 70's shot of the red, black and white car? Great pic, that. That's a privateer team entry using a lot of 'Works' and Sports Option race parts. The team was "Tokyo Nichi Futsu Racing" and they had some some success in Group 4 and 5 races in Japan right up to the mid Eighties. My pal Shun Koike has the very rear spoiler from the pictured car on his 240ZR replica. When the race car was split for parts he bought the rear spoiler and hung onto it for years. It would indeed have had the Sports Option roll-over bar ( the four point one ) as was being discussed in another thread. That reminds me - I must revive that thread to add some extra info. All the best, Alan T.
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ZG Bodykits
Hi Mr C. Sorry - I didn't see your question until now. The Z432 and Z432R were never sold by Nissan with 'Overfender' flares fitted. However, the Overfender package was offered in the "Sports Option" parts catalogue for the Z432R, which was issued in 1970. The part numbers for the 432R Sports Option Overfenders were exactly the same as those later used on the production 240ZG. If we want to split hairs, it would not be wrong to say that the ZG used 432R Overfenders.................. If you want to simply fit the 432R / ZG style Overfenders, then no real surgery is required ( they just pop-rivet onto the sheetmetal ). However, if you want to make full use of the wider wheel and tyre combinations that you can fit - then you will have to consider cutting out the original wheelarch lips. How high you take this is up to you, but the Factory race cars were cut and welded very high in the rear arches; just about as high as the mounting face for the Overfenders. All the best, Alan T.
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Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted bodyshell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Front end parts
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
Painted shell
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Bodyshell finally painted. -
S20 type Crossmember
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Replicated Crossmember to fit S20 into S30 chassis. Note the taller engine mount "towers" with a different angle to the normal L-series version. -
S20 type Crossmember
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Replicated S20 type Crossmember. Note taller engine mount "towers". -
S20 type Crossmember
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Replicated Crossmember for S20 engine. Note taller engine mount towers. -
S20 type Crossmember
From the album: Fairlady Z432-R replica project
Replicated Crossmember for S20 engine installation. -
Uniquecars section
I haven't seen the magazine article in question, but I'm sure they made the best job of it they could considering their target readership and the resources they had at hand. Anybody making an effort to write about "our" cars is going to have to refer to previously-published works which quite often contain errors and misunderstandings. I'll try not to belittle their efforts, as I have personal experience of writing to a deadline and about something that one might not necessarily have an all-consuming interest in. You can't please everybody when writing articles like that. Hope nobody's holding their breath waiting for my labour of love. I'm still learning about these cars and I'm not smug enough to think I know even tuppence-worth about them yet......... I've been gathering information / pics / data / anecdotes and conducting 'interviews' with certain parties with regard to MY area of interest - which largely centres around the Works circuit race and rally cars and everything connected with them. Standard road cars - with the exception of homologation specials and other rare beasts including notable privateer teams and their cars - will not really figure. I think most of the standard road "Export" cars have had a fair share of coverage in any previous publications, so there's probably a case for leaving them out. It would however be nice to see a little more background on the actual PROCESS of putting a range of cars like the S30-series Z cars together. When Kats made his recent posts after talking to Nissan Shatai ( who made the bodies for our cars ) and to Matsuo san, I thought it was one of the most fascinating and thought-provoking posts that I've ever seen on this or any other Z site. I just loved to see Matsuo san's private photos of one the prototype cars, and Kats quoted Matsuo san on a few specific details which were enormously interesting. It was like looking through a dirty window into another altogether unknown world. To me, that just brings home the fact that SO LITTLE detail about the evolution of the cars that we love ever seems to be published in the English language ( or any other language apart from Japanese ). Considering so little of the actual background seems to get written about, its an added frustration that what little DOES get published always seems to contain oft-repeated errors and plain inaccuracy. If I eventually end up publishing, it will almost certainly be classed as 'Vanity Publishing' - with a very small run and a relatively high price to cover costs. Picture clearance is one of the biggest obstacles, as I have put together a pretty good collection of rare pics but one needs to get clearance from the copyright owners to use them. Like I said - don't hold your breath. This may be a lifetime's work. All the best, Alan T.:classic:
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Stall
Hi Victor, Well, the plumbing sounds correct - so that should eliminate my questions on that issue. As far as I am concerned, blocking the return feed to the tank is important - so that's good news. Getting proper "O"ringed gaskets between the carb bodies and the manifold, and their correct rubber or spring washers, is going to help with insulating them from heat soak. Keeping them slightly 'loose' ( but still leak-tight ) against the manifold is going to protect from frothing which can occur at particular frequencies depending on the characteristics of your engine. Hopefully that insulation your are carrying out will make a great difference. Good luck, Alan T.
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PS30 Fairlady Z432
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PS30 Fairlady Z432
:wink: definitely not OEM! The wheels aren't either ( well at least they are period correct ). There were a few 'incorrect' things about this car, which would be fine if it weren't for the fact that it formed part of an official Nissan display. On second thoughts, what the hell does it matter as long as it looks good and works properly.
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Stall
Hi Victor, Glad you won't ( can't ) give up on the Webers. I guess you would be right that it would be most unusual if all the floats all stuck at the same time - but seeing as you rebuilt / refurbished them and set them all up the same way, then it is always possible that the same problem might affect all three carbs. I have never had a problem with using the original brass floats, as long as they are in good condition - like you found that yours were. What's foxing me is that the problem was cured when you manually put fuel into the float bowls. That would suggest a fuel-feed problem stopping fuel from flowing normally into the float bowls. If all else is correct, then the floats and inlet valves are what control this. When I say all else correct, I mean that fuel is flowing as far as the inlet valves at the correct pressure and the right volume. If its not, then it could be due to any combination of the possibilities previously discussed. What's the schematic of your plumbing? I think this is an area that can cause any number of problems. Nissan's own Sports Option parts included a special hard line fuel supply rail to replace the one for the stock SU-type carbs. This special line was just a single pipe ( fed by the main fuel supply - ie any correct pump but preferably the electric pump ) and it had three branches off it - one to go to each carb. There was no return to the tank, and you needed to block off the return line to the tank down by the stock fuel filter ( otherwise you would risk overflow from the tank under extremes of braking / cornering and overfilling ). The Webers and Mikunis usually seem most happy with a good constant feed of around 4 to 5 psi and with the necessary volume to sustain that pressure at full load in top gear. I'm just wondering whether your plumbing is allowing vapour lock or percolation that is blocking fuel feed to the carbs and the fuel is being pumped straight back into the tank through the return line? Blocking the return can sometimes alleviate vapour lock. You do indeed need some kind of insulation between the carb bodies and the inlet manifold. On Webers ( which are prone to frothing under extreme vibration ) it is usually recommended to go with an o-ringed type of gasket. This allows a certain amount of flex between the carb body and manifold, and the carb is never fully tight and hard against the manifold. The nuts that hold the carb bodies to the manifold usually have rubber or spring washers under them to keep this flexibility. Without the proper gaskets you run the risk of significant temperature bleed from the head / inlet manifold, and fuel frothing in the carbs. If you want to take this further, can you describe or illustrate your plumbing layout? I still think this might be at least partly to blame. All the best, Alan T.
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BNR32 Skyline GT-R
Not all that difficult or expensive to get it there, but somewhat more difficult to register and use legally on the road, I believe. Shame there doesn't seem to be any loopholes that you could exploit...........
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PS30 Fairlady Z432
Although it looks really orangey, its actually 920 Gold ( known as "Safari Brown" in Japan ). The camera and the lighting in the showroom have played big tricks with these photos - as the car looks nothing like this in natural light. Beware! Don't choose 920 Gold unless you see a paint reference chip beforehand!